O2 sensor wiring

Are you running fuel injection? The factory CCC computer with the feedback carb?

He is talking the 3 wire heated oxygen sensor. I believe one wire is signal, one 12 volt key on and the other ground. Depends on which sensor you use, the universal sensors have two wires the same colour and one different. The single, different colour wire attaches to your factory sensor wire and the other two can be either power or ground. Hopes this helps. You will gain some power but unfortunately Olds went severely backwards with the swirl port 307 and this is from a huge SBO guy.

olds307 and 403 said:

He is talking the 3 wire heated oxygen sensor. I believe one wire is signal, one 12 volt key on and the other ground. Depends on which sensor you use, the universal sensors have two wires the same colour and one different. The single, different colour wire attaches to your factory sensor wire and the other two can be either power or ground. Hopes this helps. You will gain some power but unfortunately Olds went severely backwards with the swirl port 307 and this is from a huge SBO guy.

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There are 1 wire, 2 wire, 3 wire and 4 wire. Narrow band or wide band.

The one wire o2 is just signal. The ECM/PCM has to wait till the o2 sensor warms up before going into closed loop. The other wiring schemes, 2 wire (signal and ground) 3 wire (signal heater + and heater ground) and finally 4 wire (signal, heater +, signal ground and heater ground)

You won't gain any power, just the ability to go into closed loop mode faster, and stay there since the o2 sensor has its own heater.

Also, on the CCC system, getting into closed loop faster means little since the car has to warm up to open the choke and idle down.

The heated sensor may not gain him any power but the reason he's likely doing this is for the headers. When you have to move the O2 down into the header collector you stand a real good chance of a non-heated sensor cooling off too much from the air flow under the car and being further from the heat source of the combustion chamber.

The heated O2 can help solve this problem making drivability a lot better.

FE3X CLONE said:

The heated sensor may not gain him any power but the reason he's likely doing this is for the headers. When you have to move the O2 down into the header collector you stand a real good chance of a non-heated sensor cooling off too much from the air flow under the car and being further from the heat source of the combustion chamber.

The heated O2 can help solve this problem making drivability a lot better.

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Not trying to sound like a dick. I don't argue that point at all. The factory chip has the fueling and timing figured out for open loop, on a FI car, factory tune, you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two. Allot of the programers actually force open loop during idle and light cruise.

I have ran vehicles on open loop and closed loop, through tuning. You get the VE tables sorted with a WB, so in open loop the tune is on. Run closed loop to allow for the PCM to make short and long term fuel corrections. This may change due to ambient temp, altitude, etc.

I just don't like seeing false info being pushed around. The posted said

obd2 oxygen sensor on the exhaust. Reason he suggested that is because the heddman header I installed didn't have an o2 sensor bung. I plan on using a reducer with said bung welded in.

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obd2 sensor? like I said, narrow band, wide band, yadda.
Adapter? and o2 bung is an o2 bung. false information.

CCC systems are primitive.


The next poster talked about more power from a 3 wire over a one wire, false information.

All A heated O2 does is help the system on newer cars go into closed loop faster. No real benefit to a ccc system.