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Help with Pivot Pin/Broken Bolt Removal ***Pictures added***

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blizack
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Help with Pivot Pin/Broken Bolt Removal ***Pictures added***

Postby blizack on Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:51 pm

I need to find a way to remove a metal bolt that broke off inside of my tilt steering pivot pin.

I've tried drilling and heating the metal with a torch and then drilling but that hasn't given much yield either.

Would air tools be stronger than an electric drill? Are there any chemical methods or techniques that I could try?

This really is an emergency as I'm running out of time to get this done. Thanks in advance to you all.

**Update: These are pictures I just took today:

This is my self-made pivot pin puller with the pin attached. I've used this to take out one of the two pins. You can get an idea of how it works -
Image

This is the good pivot pin after removal. Note the threads on the inside-
Image

now this is the pivot pin still in the steering column. This one has about 1\4 of an inch of depth that I've been able to drill into.

Image

[img]http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu258/blizack/PIC_0002-
4.jpg[/img]

Now my plan is to have the pivot pin puller that I made welded into the pivot pin, and then use that to pull it out. My neighbor with his welder says that its probably not a good idea. What do you guys think?

Basically it would look like this but welded:
Image
Last edited by blizack on Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:53 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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blizack
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Postby blizack on Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:46 pm

anyone have one of these to lend me?

http://www.kleinindustrialservices.com/broken-bolt-removal.php

you know, just layin around in your garage

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username
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Postby username on Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:10 pm

Well if you were in TN I could help you out but in the mean time you should be able to get an easyout from a tool store or you can by them individually off of a snap-on truck for like three bucks.I imagine its broke flush with the surface your best bet at this point is stop drilling the remaining material of the bolt until you get an extractor that way you know what size drill bit to use.

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blizack
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Postby blizack on Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:14 pm

I forgot to mention that it is a screw extractor that broke off inside of the pivot pin. The threads didn't hold up very well and kind of lodged the bit inside of it. It is too tightly stuck to maneuver out and I've already tried drilling.

I was just reading that "the harder the metal, the slower the turning speed [of the drill]." Does this hold any truth? Should I really try drilling into this piece of hardened steel while operating the drill on slow speeds?

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Minion1186
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Postby Minion1186 on Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:20 pm

I used a drill when one of my exhaust bolts(actually four) broke off.

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username
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Postby username on Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:37 pm

Yes the harder the material the slower you want to turn the bit, if you can find a fluted bit they work alot better than a standard bit.You need to dimple with a center punch and step up the drilling starting smaller as to give yourself a pilot.It sucks but I even had to resort to a pencil grinder to remove extractors that broke while using them :x

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xitabl442
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Postby xitabl442 on Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:08 pm

I heard if you heat it and push a candle into it the wax will melt into the threads to lubricate the threads. The guy that told me that said he did it on an engine block, so he was able to apply a lot of heat.
How big is the bolt? I have welded a nut over the top of a broken bolt and used a socket on the nut to back them out.
Live your life like an exclamation, not an explanation.

1986 Olds 442, 350 TPI from an '89 Vette. Original 200R4 back in, Aftermarket harness/computer chip, mid-length headers, custom 2.5 exhaust w/ x-pipe and side exit. Eibach springs all around, SC&C Stage 2+ front suspension, boxed rear suspension arms. Custom painted Coys C-67 wheels 17x8 fr, 17x9 rr.
59k miles, second owner.
Disassembled for paint.

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blizack
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Postby blizack on Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:19 pm

Another thing guys, the threads of the pivot pin were soft so they mended in with the threads on the pivot pin puller. So basically, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to use some force on this thing. Thanks guys.


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billyjack
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Postby billyjack on Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:01 pm

Why don't you buy a left-handed drill bit or two? If you need to do some drilling, at least have the drilling direction working for you rather than against you.

Bill

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blizack
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Postby blizack on Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:55 pm

I've tried cobalt, titanium tipped drill bits but nothing is going through the hardened steel. I tried softening up the metal with a torch and then drilling but that didn't do anything either. So now I think that welding the puller to the pin is my last resort. Any other suggestions?

These are pictures I just took today:

This is my self-made pivot pin puller with the pin attached. I've used this to take out one of the two pins. You can get an idea of how it works -
Image

This is the good pivot pin after removal. Note the threads on the inside-
Image

now this is the pivot pin still in the steering column. This one has about 1\4 of an inch of depth that I've been able to drill into.

Image

Now my plan is to have the pivot pin puller that I made welded into the pivot pin, and then use that to pull it out. My neighbor with his welder says that its probably not a good idea. What do you guys think?

Basically it would look like this but welded:
Image

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xitabl442
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Postby xitabl442 on Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:22 pm

I can't remember what the inside looks like anymore. Can you get in from the other side and tap it out with a thin punch since one side is out?
Live your life like an exclamation, not an explanation.

1986 Olds 442, 350 TPI from an '89 Vette. Original 200R4 back in, Aftermarket harness/computer chip, mid-length headers, custom 2.5 exhaust w/ x-pipe and side exit. Eibach springs all around, SC&C Stage 2+ front suspension, boxed rear suspension arms. Custom painted Coys C-67 wheels 17x8 fr, 17x9 rr.
59k miles, second owner.
Disassembled for paint.

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blizack
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Postby blizack on Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:27 pm

I just ran out to look to make sure. It can't be tapped out from the other side because there are parts between the two sides. I can't even see the pin from the hole on the other side.

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84GP455
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Postby 84GP455 on Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:20 pm

I just recently repaired my tilt wheel because of the loose bolts inside and i had to purchase one of those special pin remover tools. I would weld it and pull it out, they aren't really in there too tight so it should come out once you weld it as one piece. You need to get a new pin anyways because that one is junk, so you can't do any more harm to it by welding the tool to it so you can pull it out. I bought 2 of those tools as they were only $2.99 each just because no parts stores around here had them so i had to order them online from California. What are you doing to your tilt wheel? Repairing the loose bolts inside? Let me know if you have any questions as i just did mine 2 months ago and i have many pics of the job.
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Longroof79
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Postby Longroof79 on Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:23 pm

It looks like your idea of welding on a stud or bolt will be the final straw.
I personally think it will work, just be careful not to overheat the area.
A few good tacks should do it depending how tough that pivot pin is in there.
When I redid my tilt column, I initially used a slide hammer to remove the pins. They came out easily.

Good luck! Let us know how you made out.
Jack
'79 Malibu wagon, mild 355 sbc, TH350 trans, 8.5 GN rear

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