Your car *WILL* get stolen!

[454muscle]

WE ARE VULNERABLE:

So I've always loved G-bodies -- and so do everyone else, young and old alike. G-body's get more attention than expensive sports cars etc... and have very few "haters" -- which is why most of you here are on this board.

These cars are easier to steal than say, and expensive sports car or super car. Why? Because people with expensive supercars have mansions and garages with video surveilance, etc etc... which goes beyond basic vehicle security measures. This makes people like us vulnerable to theft.

Me personally -- I'm addicted to the G-body Grand Prix's (but I love all G bodies in general). I've owned 5 of them. When my first one was complete, I was rear-ended on the highway by some drunk kid, and it totalled the car. He hit so hard, the T-roofs popped off. 2 years later, I finally had another one on the road with a big block 454 and it sounded awesome -- it had a deep, low tone, which mellowed out when revved a bit, and screamed at WOT -- she was a beauty. One night after installing my new B&M Megashifter I took it out for the first time for a drive. That night was the last I'd see her. It was stolen. I learned my lesson (as most of us do) the hard way.

But don't kid yourself. I've had a lot of time to think about this, and several years of research into this:

IF THEY WANT YOUR CAR, THEY WILL TAKE IT

We've all heard the saying "If they want your car, they're gonna take it" -- meaning, regardless of what kind of antitheft or vehicle security you have installed on your classic G ride, if a knowledgable thief wants your car, he'll take it -- and it's true.

Here's why:

Say a thief (from either a high profile theft ring, or some young punk who merely want to steal your ride) targets your G ride. He isn't gonna wait till 3:00am when you're sound asleep. In fact, most cars get stolen at mid-week, in the afternoon, right in front of your doorstep from your own driveway. It only takes 60 seconds (yes, just like the movie).

Example: Say you have a vehicle, an expensive alarm system installed. It's got a shock sensor, a motion detector, a two way pager with a long 1 mile range. You also have a steering wheel club, and a brake lock hooked up. For additional solid security, you have installed a GPS vehicle tracking device. Now, even if the asshole does steal your car, you can track it down, have the sonofabitch arrested, and recover your ride in one piece, right? Wrong.

How he does it:

Theif brakes window with a small stone at the driver's side. Window shatters. He brakes it all around so it just looks like the window is "open" (so as to not look conspicuous). This takes him exactly 1 second. 59 seconds to go.

Thief locates your little alarm antenna mounted at the top of your windshield, he and snips the wire it. Time taken, 1 second. No more pager. 58 seconds to go.

Thief pops hood and cuts power to the alarm, which is blaring. How? He has 2 options:
1. Find the siren, snip wire
2. Find the battery power wire, and also the backup battery (usually easy to spot) and cut power wire
You don't think so? Please. It's easier than walking into a bank with a gun. Dude, anyone can do either of the two above steps in 10 seconds, and that's being generous. Imagine a trained/experienced car thief.
No more blaring alarm. Time taken 10 seconds (being generous).

Thief pulls out his heavy duty wire cutter and cuts steering wheel, removes the club and tosses it out the window. Time taken: 5 seconds.

Thief uses his wire cutter to cut through your brake lock. It's a lot thicker than the steering wheel, and tempered (hardenned) steel. Doesn't work. So he pulls out his mini pocket sized blowtorch canister. He lights it, adjusts the flame, heats up the thinnest spot. Hits it with his hammer and either breaks it or bends it enough to remove it. Tosses it onto the street. Time taken, 20 seconds.

Total time so far: 37 seconds.

Thief uses a tool to pop out your ignition key assembly, uses a simple pair of needle-nose pliers to start your car. Time taken: 5 seconds.

So less than 45 seconds and the thief is off with your car. And you were taking a piss the whole time. But wait!!

You have a GPS tracking unit installed, so you can track your car, right? Wrong.

Thief is carrying a GPS Interrupter (which he purchased, mind you, from ebay for $10 + shipping from China). He simply plugs it into your cigarette lighter and presto, he vanishes off the map. Now he can't be tracked by anyone, and you wasted your money (I've written more about this device here, page 4 of this thread).

Thief takes your car for a joy ride, chops it up and resells all the parts.
Insurance company only offers you 1% of the true value of your car.

Note: The above is only one example of a 60 second car theft. There are many other variations.

YOU CAN TAKE PRECAUTIONS

So yes, if a thief wants your car, it *WILL* get stolen, BUT NOT if you take some extra precautions!!!!! What are they? These are my recommendations:

Your anti-theft is only as good as how YOU MODIFY IT.
NEVER let your installer just install your antitheft device with default practices and locations! Instead, ask for custom work:

- get 2 alarm antenna's (instead of one), mount one at the front windshield, the other one at the rear window, and wire them SEPARETELY. This way if the thief cuts your antenna, it's possible he won't realize there is another one in the back. You will hear your alarm pager beeping, grab a crow bar and run to your car (you know what to do).
- have the installer hide the siren where it's not easily visible, then, have him install another one (if possible near the back of the car) wired separately (different circuit). This way if the thief cuts the wire to your first siren, he will still have to waste valuable time trying to find the second one.
- same as above for the backup battery -- have two of them installed. Hide one in the engine bay, and if possible, hide the second one in the trunk or rear of the car, wired up separately. The thief will be pulling his hair out trying to get the alarm to stop blaring even after he cuts power to your main battery.
- use a fake hood latch: replace your standard hood latch with another one, leaving your factory one in place. You can purchase a hood latch cable (manual choke cable) at any auto parts store. Place your new hood latch somewhere not clearly visible (ie. locked in the glove box). Thief will get into your car and try to open the hood, to look for the above componenets, but he can't if he can't open the hood in the first place. After he pulls the latch and and thinks that the hood is now open, he will waste valuable time trying to figure out why it isn't working, while the alarm is still blaring.
- replace your standard trunk latch with another one, leaving your factory one in place. Using the same type of cable as for your hood latch (manual choke cable) place your trunk release somewhere hidden and not easy to find. If the theif does get in your engine bay and disables the siren or backup siren battery, he will still have to get into the trunk (this method is only effective if your rear seats don't fold down)
- have the installer install the alarm brain somewhere ELSE other than under the dash -- it's the firsg place the thief will look. The second place is in the center console or glove box. If you can avoid it, have it installed somewhere else.
- If you do use a steering wheel club, replace your steering wheel with one that has a heavy-duty tempered steel core -- they are not easy to cut with the theif's huge wire cutters (they are only good for factory or cheap steering wheels).
- No steering wheel -- use a steering wheel hub that allows you to pop your wheel off -- and take it with you. Theif can't drive it if he can't steer it.
- Use a brake pedal lock. If the theif tries to drive the vehicle away (assuming he's found both your antennas, both your backup batteries or both your sirens) he won't be able to use the brakes.
- install a starter and/or fuel pump kill switch, hidden. Shut it off when you park your car.
- when you park, pull the ebrake all the way up, leave it in gear (assuming its manual), and pitch the wheels all the way right or left, this way if a tow truck (traditional wrecker) tries to tow it from the front the back wheels will drag locked up since the ebrake is on, and if he tries to hook from the back, the wheels will lock up because its in gear (assuming front wheel drive), and it will be a bitch to tow because it will be all over the road because the tires are turned, the only way they could get around that is breaking the ignition column (which takes a little time) and taking the ebrake and trans out of gear
- assuming the thief gets both your alarm antennas, gets into your engine bay and trunk, clips either your alarm brain or both sirens or both backup batteries and main battery to the alarm and gets your steering wheel club off and the brake lock or attaches a metal bar to your steering column to steer your car and drives it away, there is one more trick you can use...
- Forced Ignition anti-car jack system: Even if said thief jacks your ride at gunpoint with your keys and all and drives off, he won't get far before your fuel pump shuts off and renders the car undriveable (even if he realizes what is going on, there is no way he can get your car started).
- Ok this is a no brainer: put your car in a garage active home security (motion detector, etc)
- Add security cameras, motion activated.
- Shave your doors and trunk, leaving no lock cylinders in them.
- install an air-ride suspension (if you have the money) and drop it to the ground when you park it. This way the thief cannot get under the car to tow or lift it in the first place, even if he has a flatbed tow truck.

Edit: Additional security devices:

Steering Wheel Lock: Get it at your local Canadian Tire or Autozone type store. Here is a nice "dual hook" one you can get online that's also priced reasonably well:
http://unbrakeable.com/Unbreakable_Auto_SWL.htm

Brake Lock:
http://unbrakeable.com/Unbreakable_Auto_BL.htm

Steering Column Lock. Works well,

One kind: http://www.steadfastautosecurity.com/index.htm

Another kind: https://www.kirbanperformance.com/produ ... e+GNX.html

Another Tip (This is also a really cool MOD!):
VIN Etching: Deter car thieves by having your VIN number etched on your windows and windshield. Here is a video from John Walsh (the guy from the "America's Most Wanted" TV Show):
http://safety.amw.com/family/deter-car-thieves-with-vin-etching/

Here is the cheapest VIN etching kit I came up with (I will be getting this kit myself):
http://www.etch-o-matic.biz/vin-etching/

Edit: the VIN ETCHING idea is actually a GREAT idea. Read this story (shift/click) about a guy who tracked down his stolen Pontiac Parisienne, and the only reason he was able to find the car, was because he had the VIN number etched on all the windows. The thieves were having a hard time dropping the car off at a chop shop, and were driving it around with a new VIN tag, which was obviously different than the one etched on the windows!

Wheel Lock (like a parking control wheel boot):
http://www.mcgard.com/Home/AutomotiveProducts/CarLock

EDIT (July 1, 2010): A Contribution from papa_wolf -- a former vehicle retreival expert who has worked with law enforcement gives some of his experiences and very helpful advice in this same thread several pages down, or just click on this link to view it: http://www.gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php ... 69#p151355 (shift/click).

EDIT (December 7, 2010): A member contribution -- if you're located in Florida, head over to a guy named "Steel Willy" for some custom made security devices that have not ever been defeated yet, from an all-steel steering column lock to a steering columng locking pin with key which locks the steering wheel in place. See this thread: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16536&p=184012#p183904

EDIT (April 24, 2011): Contributed by Regal_Nut_84 on page 10 of this thread:

My simplest solution would be a kill switch, simplified by interrupting power to the park/neutral safety switch. Starter will never engage because the car always thinks the transmission is in gear. Easily hidden between seat and console, or perhaps in the ashtray/glovebox. Or if you really want to make it difficult.... put it in the TRUNK

EDIT (December 28, 2011) contributed by shortydoowop138 on page 11: Add another loud siren INSIDE your vehicle along with your alarm system, so as to deafen the thief before he's able to mess around in there.

EDIT (December 28, 2011) Contributed by lildhix on page 11 of this thread: Locking Hood Pins -- makes it harder for would-be thieves to access your engine bay/under the hood:

Locking hood pins

Carbon fiber ones, as far as I know, all the other types will eventually rust (I heard that even stainless steel or chrome hod pins rust, within a year)

Another style carbon fiber type hood pin.

EDIT (May 17, 2012):
Here's a NEW video from Stacy David -- he walks you through several ways to foil those who are looking to steal your ride. They range from simple free ways to some that are a little more in depth. Either way, they work great to stop people from making off with your car. I like the cutoff "dizzy" switch idea, very easy and simple!
http://www.youtube.com/embed/-zbC6T6sfZM?rel=0


EDIT (Oct. 22, 2012):
A suggestion made by TC1959 in another thread:

You can run a switched ground wire to the tach terminal on a HEI dist. that will keep the ignition module from letting the car start. Its simple and you don't have to worry about a "Hot" wire shorting anywhere in the car.

EDIT (Jan. 17, 2013), A Suggestion by Onyxxtreme:
The Ravelco anti theft system. A customized vehicle kill system. If you don't want to do it yourself, See their website @
http://www.ravelco.com/product.html


Conclusion:

The above suggestions are just a GUIDE and following even some of them will help. Let's face it, if you do what everybody else does, it's like handing the keys over to your would-be thief. Think outside the box! Your ride will at least be a *little* more secure if you follow one or more of my suggestions. I hope some of you will find this information helpful in securing your beloved G ride! Peace/out

[beermonkey9417]

or you can do this:

[megaladon6]

my theft deterent is simple---rust, lots and lots of rust.
now it's not as bad as the "you have to know where to sit to not fall through the floor pan" theory (one of the most effective in the world), but it's close.
hey beermonkey, your coolant doesn't look quite right, it might be time for a flush

[Bonnewagon]

Good post, it's true. I live in NYC, auto theft capital of the world. I drive fugly cars no one looks twice at. Knew a guy with a sick GN, kept it in a locked up windowless cement garage with steel roll-down door, down an alley with apartment windows overlooking everything, lots of alarms,everything you could think of. They left a note- "Thank's for the challenge".

[carmangary]

or you can do this:

That's what mine looks right now. Problem is that I can't drive it. LOL.

[svltrack]

There are 10k ways you could sabotage a car so that if a theif stole it they would be worse off. That said.. we live in america where you can get sued for turing your own property into a danger for others. Take the theif who sued the person for their skylight when he tripped & he walked away with $100k from an insurance settlement.

Personally I tend to agree that if they want it they will get it.. That does not mean they will like seeing this thing pointed at their nose when they turn around when the silent alarm on my car goes off from the door being opened

[84GP455]

I disagree, most thieves are stupid and will make mistakes or under estimate someone who is smarter than them. I am always on the alert! I've stopped 2 would be thieves so far, and my brother stopped a would be thief of my sisters car, he chased him down through neighbors backyards with his gun in his underwear!

[mybigwarwagon]

Thief uses a tool to pop out your ignition key assembly, uses a simple pair of needle-nose pliers to start your car. Time taken: 5 seconds.

the only way they could get around that is breaking the ignition column (which takes a little time) and taking the ebrake and trans out of gear

If they are going to pop the ignition they are going to be able to unlock the trans anyway.

I am probably going to put an air horn under my hood and wire it to the alarm when I rebuild the GreenGremlin. That way I will find the would be theft laying in the driveway dead of a heart attack. Not to mention it will get the neighbors attention - and probably spook the herd of longhorns that will jump the fence and trample him.

[85GPLef41]

or you can do this:

Thats too funny! Mine was like that for about 6 months when i swapped my engine in and even now its sitting in the garage on 4 jackstands with the front end completely apart... I hope to add some of these ideas soon as i done with that. Even though it will probably another 6 months as i tear apart the rear suspension,then rebuild the trans , paint, etc etc ..... Come to think of it i haven't driven the car that much

[Doober]

Good points.

Someone tried to steal my '81 Malibu while I was at work in Flint, MI back in '06. The only thing I'd done was unplug the ignition coil, so he was a)in too much of a hurry, b)skittish, or c)too stupid to realize what was done. He didn't get the car. He'd jimmied the lock, I found out the following summer that as worn as a lot of these cars are, you can push the window in a little bit and you can fit just about anything down in the door... I used a tire iron because I'd locked my keys in the car, and I didn't break anything (yes, there's that much room). So part of my to-do plan is some sort of shield in the door shell so they can't simply jimmy the lock, and if anything they'll have to break the window to get in.

Something else you can do is build a latching relay and wire it to the power side of the ignition switch, not power to the coil itself. When it's wired this way it will require the key to be on, then you press the designated switch (you could use anything that has constant 12v to it) it provides power to the ignition. Then, after you turn the key off, it automatically breaks power to the switch. This way, even if they get into the car, break the column, disable the alarm, etc. etc., they still won't be able to start the car because there isn't power to the ignition switch itself. I was able to find a good diagram a while back, but I may have to build my own to show what I mean.

[454muscle]

Good points.

Someone tried to steal my '81 Malibu while I was at work in Flint, MI back in '06. The only thing I'd done was unplug the ignition coil, so he was a)in too much of a hurry, b)skittish, or c)too stupid to realize what was done. He didn't get the car. He'd jimmied the lock, I found out the following summer that as worn as a lot of these cars are, you can push the window in a little bit and you can fit just about anything down in the door... I used a tire iron because I'd locked my keys in the car, and I didn't break anything (yes, there's that much room). So part of my to-do plan is some sort of shield in the door shell so they can't simply jimmy the lock, and if anything they'll have to break the window to get in.

Something else you can do is build a latching relay and wire it to the power side of the ignition switch, not power to the coil itself. When it's wired this way it will require the key to be on, then you press the designated switch (you could use anything that has constant 12v to it) it provides power to the ignition. Then, after you turn the key off, it automatically breaks power to the switch. This way, even if they get into the car, break the column, disable the alarm, etc. etc., they still won't be able to start the car because there isn't power to the ignition switch itself. I was able to find a good diagram a while back, but I may have to build my own to show what I mean.

A power switch, for the ignition switch, which turns off when the car is shut off. A great suggestion Doober. It would work. The switch would have to be well hidden though.


I'm interested in a hidden switch, without having to switch off the starter or fuel pump. Why? Because I want to be able to remote start the car. The 555 big block is damn loud. I want to be able to remote start it and scare the shyt out of bystanders! But at the same time, if a thief gets in it, he should still not be able to drive off with the car. Anyone have any ideas?

Permanent line lock, on be default? Feasible? I'd like to know if there is a way to shut off the fuel pump if the brakes are pressed, unless I activate a hidden safety switch, if that makes sense.

[Doober]

The switch in question would be one that's already in the car (read on )

In short, this was basically what I had in mind when I was talking about a latching relay. They make smaller PCB-mount types, but they way shown here you can use a standard SPDT relay.

SW1 is the trigger, IGN is the ignition switch, R is everything that runs off the ignition switch, and SW2 is a kill switch that you can hit (although it's optional of course)... say someone tries to carjack you, you can hit that switch and it disables power to the car. Even if they hit it again they can't get the car started back up.

Like I said, SW1 can be anything that runs off constant 12v... horn button, headlight switch or brake lights (I wouldn't recommend either of these though because they're something you'd use on a regular basis when starting a car), power mirror buttons, cigarette lighter plug, etc. (replace ground with the leg between SW1 and IGN). Then, when you turn off the ignition, the relay is turned off, and to even turn the car back on you both a)have to have the ignition in at least the "ON" position, and b)have to press the trigger switch, whatever it may be.
*edit*
Or even better... instead of said 'hidden' switch you could place a magnetic reed switch in a location only YOU know, and unless you had the magnet to trigger it, the car would be unstartable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch

On the other hand, you may need to have the car serviced, and they won't let you drive the car into the bay or whatever, or you're leaving the car somewhere it may need to be moved & you won't be around. If you think this will ever be the case, you could wire in a keyed switch (removable key) somewhere that only you know about (i.e. behind an ashtray, way up under the dash, etc.), that will bypass this and allow the car to be started normally.

=======================================================
Another anti-theft option parallels to this one.

Using another N/O switch (this doesn't need constant 12v, just a switched source) that would be considered original equipment, connect the resistance/load side to another relay for the starter. This would be wired up almost the same as a starter kill relay for an alarm, except instead of terminal 87a you would use terminal 87. Wired this way, the only way the starter will engage is when you're pressing this button.

[Doober]

Also, far as wiring a remote starter, that shouldn't be an issue, you would just tap into power at the fuse box (before this entire setup), and your ignition, accessory, and starter wires would all be wired after, so it bypasses this setup completely. As a bonus, after the car is started with the remote starter, when you insert the key & turn on the ignition you shouldn't need to press your hidden trigger button, as the relay will already have power from the remote starter circuit.

Something I plan on wiring in with the next remote starter I install (likely in the Malibu), is an anti-grind circuit. Another relay yet will be installed inline with the starter circuit, and once the car is running from the remote starter, you won't be able to accidentally grind the starter when the car is running.

[454muscle]

Wow! That's awesome! And your second answer to my last question (which came in while I was typing my replay lol so I started all over).
That's exactly what I need to know! Thanks a lot bro!

I will be installing the Viper 5902, it's pretty freakin' cool (check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3fwrea4dB0)

By the way, my engine is fuel injected, so remote start will work (carburated engines can't be remote started, or rather, it's not really a good idea to do).

Also the viper system does have an anti-grind component. I will be printing out your information when I get this stuff done!!

[Doober]

No problemo, glad to help