upgrade cam and intake for 305

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Phoenyx

Royal Smart Person
Jun 27, 2007
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DRIVEN said:
My suggestion would be to focus more on torque than HP (that's really what a 305 was intended for anyway). The small bore size is what your real limiting factor is and there's nothing you can do to get around that. The Comp XE256 might be a good choice. I ran one on a 307 Chev with a Performer intake and a 600cfm Edelbrock and was pleased. It pulled strong (for a 307) up to about 5000, had great throttle response, and got decent mileage. It had just a hint of choppy idle. Spend the extra money on good rockers if you want - I doubt you'll notice any difference though. My Dyno2000 would estimate HP in the 240 range and torque around 320 (peaking right at 3000rpm) with that combo. Figure out the RPM range where you spend most of your time and optimize it. That's essentially what the OEs do with their constantly shifting 28 speed automatics :lol: .

That actually sounds pretty good.

As for my RPMs. With my gears and tires, cruising around at the speed limit (50kpg/31mph) I'm right around 1800-1900RPMs. I am kinda worried about running out of power to soon in the RPM range. I'm having that issue now the (thing only pulls between 2000-3000 lol), but I think any new cam would fix that right now lol. But if that one pulls good until 5000 that should me very nice in there.

Keep your opinions and suggestions coming.
 

axisg

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 17, 2007
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A new cam and lifter set can be obtained from Comp Cams at reasonable price. They have a program on their website where you put in your engine specs and it will give you a list of cams / sets to choose from with est HP/Tq levels. Used Alum intakes are pretty cheap used ( although I could never justify the price of a new one myself ).

Really though the exhaust will be your stumbling block once you put the camshaft in. Just headers alone on the Monte with the 305 gave me more "seat of the pants" grunt at a lower RPM. I too made the "choice" of running headers off my stock manifolds many years ago and never really saw any performance improvement ( other than sound )

As you know, you don't have to cut up your whole new exhaust, just far enough back to hook up the headers.

IMO money would be better spent on headers before a cam.
 
Oct 14, 2008
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Get a performer or the new Weiand dual plane. Get a MILD cam, lifters and quality timing set. Get a set of small valve, modern chamber aluminum heads. Trick flow makes them for sure, I'm sure others do too. You guys have a ton of options. Build for torque, not maximum hp.
 

lilbaggie

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 11, 2009
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There's a great article on a "budget" 305 build in July's Super Chevy. They added 132 hp to a stock LG4 with a XM270HR Cam, ProComp dual plane intake, TFS Super 23 305 heads/1.5 roller rockers, Holley 750 & 1 3/4 long tube headers.I put the word "budget" in quotes as those TFS 305 heads (i did pretty much the same build up a few months prior) are $1100 and i don't think that fits most people's definition of the word "budget".

also when i did my research for my 305 build i remember a couple builds (i think it was chevy hiperformance) where they upgraded both cam and intake and were disappointed that it didn't have much affect and it wasn't until they swapped out the heads that the engine really woke up.

given that, i'd agree with axisg, 79loserbluelu and some of the other guys that you'd be better served doing headers first (and open air filter, if you haven't done all that already) see where that gets you and then deciding how much more you want to sink into the 305. i think the stock heads will be a severe limiting factor to any performance gains and your cam selection.

btw, i'm not a 305 basher by any means. i built up mine: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17735 and love it.
 

Phoenyx

Royal Smart Person
Jun 27, 2007
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Alberta, Canada
I don't even think I could hook headers up to my exhaust because of how it it routed. It's just like the factory exhaust. Except where the crossover pipe connects to the other side, rather than joining the two pipes run beside each other until the transmission mount. Unless there is a decent prices set of headers that will bolt to where the factory exhaust does.

I myself am kinda of a 305 basher. My problem is I don't have a garage that I can do a swap in, otherwise I would just put a 350 in and be done with it.

I know I built up a 305 when I was 16 and it ran pretty god. But it was also in a little Monza too lol. What I did on that one was upgraded the cam (not sure of the specs) from a late 60s 350 SS engine (got a good deal on it), new timing set, new oil pump, a factory GM aluminum intake (to replace the 2 bbl), and a Quadrajet form a 350. It ran pretty good actually, and srill through the stock heads and manifolds.

And like I said in an earlier post. The fact that my car only makes power between 2000-3000RPM, kinda makes me think the cam is gone.

Damn I wish I had access to a garage so I could just put a damn 350 in lol. Would be so much easier. But considering shops around here charge $350-550 just to do a rear end swap, I can just imagine what they would charge for an engine swap lol.
 

Evil_Regal

Apprentice
Sep 25, 2006
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6
Philly, PA
Just drive the thing to death and put the money into other things that will change over to a 350 when you get around to it. Along the way maybe you will meet a friend who has a garage that can help you do the swap, it's pretty simple. Either that or go for 12's http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewt ... =2&t=97600 :twisted:
 

axisg

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 17, 2007
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Phoenyx said:
I don't even think I could hook headers up to my exhaust because of how it it routed. It's just like the factory exhaust. Except where the crossover pipe connects to the other side, rather than joining the two pipes run beside each other until the transmission mount. Unless there is a decent prices set of headers that will bolt to where the factory exhaust does.

.

Sounds like the same old-school setup I had on my cutlass in the early 90's ( same one I mentioned with no performance improvement but it def lightened my wallet more than I care to admit to now ).

By the sounds of that you could eventually use a setup like mine with the TES Headers up front, hollowed out cat ( to pass visual inspection ) then a cat back. This will work for both the 305 and can be re-used with a 350, 383, or whatever.

I remember a few years back before I bought my cat-back I was thinking about keeping my exhaust from the cat back as it was in good shape. I was talking to an exhaust shop in Vancouver and he was willing to sell me the exhaust piece which bolted to the back of the cat which had the 2 pipes ( which run to the mufflers ) welded into the flange which bolted to the cat. ( It looked just like a mandrel bent "U" and he cut the bottom off the "U" and welded it to the flange ). A setup like that would allow you to retain the exhasut you have from the transmission back and save you some $$ as you could just cut and clamp your existing exhaust to this flange. ( then you just need to worry about everything from the motor to where the cat should be.

Either way, the exhaust you have now probably won't work with your future plans of a bigger motor I know the pain of having to pay to fix something twice.
 

1986elcamino383

Apprentice
Jun 29, 2009
52
0
0
South River NJ
I have a new comp cam and lifter set that would work well with a 305 . I bought it for just the thing your doing but I am not going to use if I will get you specs and we can talk price if you want I am not looking for alot for it let me know . :D
 

1986elcamino383

Apprentice
Jun 29, 2009
52
0
0
South River NJ
I went and got the cam it is a crane cam not a comp cam sorry it is a power max 2020 cam and lifter set . Here is the specs from the crane web sight.

Part Number: 114112 Grind Number: POWERMAX 2020 (FORMERLY COM
Engine Identification:
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1981 1987 CHEVROLET 8 GREAT FOR 305 AND 350 ENGINES IN CARS, LIGHT AND INTERMEDIATE TRUCKS WITH OPTIONAL GEARING. GOOD LOW AND MID-RANGE TORQUE AND HP. (50 STATE LEGAL IN 81-87 CAR AND 81-92 TRUCK, 267-350 APPLICATIONS ONLY. C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-19) BASIC RPM 1000-4000
Engine Size Configuration
267-350 C.I. V

Valve Setting: Intake .000 Exhaust .000 HOT

Lift: Intake @Cam 267 @Valve 401 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 282 @Valve 423
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5

Cam Timing: -- @--
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake -- -- 254 °
Exhaust -- -- 264 °

Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99848
Loads Closed 114 LBS @ 1.700 or 1 45/64
Open 287 LBS @ 1.300
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 800
Maximum RPM 4400
Valve Float 5000

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake (7) ATDC 21 ABDC 104 194 °
Exhaust 26 BBDC (2) BTDC 104 204 °

Let me know what you want to do. Mario
 

Phoenyx

Royal Smart Person
Jun 27, 2007
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0
Alberta, Canada
Evil_Regal said:
Just drive the thing to death and put the money into other things that will change over to a 350 when you get around to it.
That was what I was gonna do with this car. But I'm spending over $400 a month on gas right now. And that's just getting out of hand.

I was also considering just renting a garage and all the tools I would need for a swap. But than again it's been a while since I've done a swap. And this will most likely be a solo act, and I'm just not sure if I can do it on my own. Damn this is so frustrating. I've got like close to 15K in this heap. And it still needs so much more. Sometimes I just wanna give up, sell the car and get a bus pass.
 
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