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Starting a car thats been sitting for 10+ years.

Keep it clean! :)
STLRegal
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Starting a car thats been sitting for 10+ years.

Postby STLRegal on Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:55 pm

Now, dont disown me, but my dad has a 69 Mustang thats been sitting for atleast 10 years. It was in running condition when parked and was started a few times, but wouldnt keep running. (probably gas going bad). Since then its just been sitting there.

Well he basically gave me the go ahead to do what I want with it. Im starting by replacing the dry rotted tires, and plan on pushing it out of the garage sometime this week to work on it and clean up the garage.

What kinda things do I need to do to get it running again? Obviosuly oil and a battery are a must. Should I drop the tank to get rid of any bad gas, and replace the lines, or just add some new gas?

Also should I flush the cooling system or just worry about that after Ive gotten it started?

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pose_442
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Postby pose_442 on Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:17 pm

Do these things first before starting the car (Not necessarily in this order).

1.) Replace Battery
2.) Remove all old gas from tank and carb
3.) Rebuild the carb
4.) Replace spark plugs and wires (Spray WD-40 into the holes while changing the plugs as this will help initial startup and help loosen things up)
5.) Replace distributor parts (cap and rotor, coil, module or points)
6.) Change the oil
7.) Turn the engine by using a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt to ensure it isn't seized.
8.) Put in some fresh gas, cross your fingers, and turn the key.

I hope this helps you out.

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KrisW
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Postby KrisW on Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:26 pm

I would pull the plugs, and squirt oil in the cylinders, then pull the distributor and use a pre-oiler (or make one out of an old distributor by removing the cam gear off of it) hooked to your drill. With the valve covers off, run the drill until oil comes out of ALL THE PUSHRODS and the top end is running with oil.

Then you can put the valve covers and distributor back on and try to start it.
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STLRegal
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Postby STLRegal on Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:30 am

Its probably safe to assume that I need to replace the oil and fuel filter too?

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RITTER
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Postby RITTER on Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:59 am

All filters would be a good idea. The fuel lines wouldn't be a bad idea unless you can be sure there is no dry rot going on with them too.

After it is running, I would also get a radiator flush solevent and run it in the system for a day or so and then flush the entire system. Also make sure the transmission fluid level is good of course.

The water pump and alternator will most likely go down hill fast so be ready to replace them as well
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andrewmp6
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Postby andrewmp6 on Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:38 am

I pull off the valve covers pull off the coil wire and crank it tell you see oil come up in the heads so you know its got oil pressure.

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85 Cutlass Brougham
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Postby 85 Cutlass Brougham on Mon Mar 10, 2008 5:30 am

I just did something like that on a 1967 Mustang a friend's wife got from her parents. They needed to ship it to NY from FL and so I got it running for them so the shipper could move it on and off the transport. It is a 289 2 bbl/C4 car, so it may be similar to yours. Anyhow, to get it going, I would install a clear fuel filter in line between the pump and tank to see if the gas is contaminated with rust, and to make sure the fuel pump is still working . It may be that it will still run on what is in the tank, so you may be able to just idle it till it runs out instead of having to go through the hassle of disposing of old gas, which is hazardous waste. Then, if there is rust in the filter after you run it out, you can replace the tank (AKA trunk floor!) easily too. Also, the rubber fuel lines should be changed as well since a rupture could cause a fire. Anyhow, I agree with pulling all 8 plugs, and squirting oil in each cylinder. I also agree with priming it. Where I will differ is that after priming, I would try to spin it over by hand first by turning the crank with a socket wrench. With the plugs still out, I would next spin it with the starter and wait until the oil light goes out (distributor installed, of course!). This is to be sure the bearings have oil on them before they get loaded with cylinder pressure. The carb is likely out to lunch from sitting, so go ahead and get a cheap rebuild kit and go through it (this is the most likely reason it would not stay running). Yeah, do the plug wires and plugs too. I would also at least clean the cap and rotor terminals as well as cleaning (or replacing) the points and condenser. If you have a U pull it yard, go get a battery there as it will probably be under $20. Either that, or some parts stores have em used and cheap too. At any rate, it sounds like you have a nice project car on your hands! They make good projects because they are awful cars in stock form as far as the brakes and suspension go (Just like ANY 60's car). Then again, they look good and have tons of parts available to fix their numerous shortcomings. Out of curiosity, what are some of the specifics on it? Is it a Fastback, Convertible or notchback? What engine/ trans does it have?
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1985 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (ex pizza delivery beater with 240,000 miles):
355 Chevy- 9.5:1 compression, Comp XE 262 cam, World S/R Torquer heads with 2.02's, Edelbrock Performer, 800CFM Q jet, Camaro ram air system,Edelbrock headers, Comp Magnum roller tip rockers,TH 200 4R, 3.23 rear, aluminum hood, IROC steering box, poly bushings, Eibach springs, etc. Cutlass build thread here: viewtopic.php?t=4982
Also: The Thing That Won't Die-1998 Nissan Frontier, 340,000 miles of pizza delivery.

shotgun
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Postby shotgun on Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:14 am

All good advice above.

I like using PB blaster in the cylinders.

Pull plugs,spray healthy dose,reinstall plugs,crank engine by hand let sit overnight.

Repeat this 3 or 4 times.

By replacing the plugs compression forces the PB into/around the rings.It lubes,dissolves slight surface rust and free up the rings.

Just brought an engine that was sitting in a car but outsde for 17 years, back to life.Runs like a champ!

STLRegal
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Postby STLRegal on Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:11 am

Thanks for all the info guys! This cars a Mach 1 fastback and has a built 289 from my dads old mustang. Dont know much about the transmission other than that its a 4-speed and manual. It did have 4:10s in the rearend, but my dad traded them for some 3: somethings. Even he regrets doing that.

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85 Cutlass Brougham
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Postby 85 Cutlass Brougham on Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:55 pm

I would bet that it is a Top Loader 4 speed since it has a manual. It's too bad it does not have the original engine! The 289 is neat, but a Mach 1 would have had a 302, 351, 390, or 428 originally (Boss 302 and 429 cars were also Mach 1 trim cars, but were not labeled as such IIRC). I would decode the VIN and see what it originally came with. There are a ton of sites that can tell you how to do it all over the web. I just did it for my neighbor's 1973 Camaro and it was pretty simple to find, like 30 seconds of a Google search. If it was a big block car, see if it had a factory oil cooler since that means it had the drag pack and would be worth quite a bit.
Image
1985 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (ex pizza delivery beater with 240,000 miles):
355 Chevy- 9.5:1 compression, Comp XE 262 cam, World S/R Torquer heads with 2.02's, Edelbrock Performer, 800CFM Q jet, Camaro ram air system,Edelbrock headers, Comp Magnum roller tip rockers,TH 200 4R, 3.23 rear, aluminum hood, IROC steering box, poly bushings, Eibach springs, etc. Cutlass build thread here: viewtopic.php?t=4982
Also: The Thing That Won't Die-1998 Nissan Frontier, 340,000 miles of pizza delivery.


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