Cutlass Supreme budget sleeper build

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G-Body_Vet

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 15, 2010
2,937
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Here's the trusty spring list if it helps
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm

I got a set of new 5664's for $40 some time ago and I'm going to give those a shot. Probably overkill, but we'll see. I had an '80 Regal with a Poncho 400 & V6 springs and the front end was slammed after the swap. The fender lip was just barely above the bead of the wheel :shock:
 

Intragration

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2012
446
1
16
Chicago
G-body, thank you for the link. That actually helped a whole lot. I was able to create a spreadsheet using the calculations he lays out there, and from that I was able to come up with good final ride height estimates based on my weight. If you'd like me to plug in any numbers for your combo, let me know.

So I have a couple questions. Currently my car is on stock 92k mile AC V6 springs all around. The weight is pretty near stock, maybe even a little lighter with the weight reduction I've done. The car came from the factory with a front sway bar, and I've since installed a factory rear sway bar as well. Also installed Monroe Sensatracks, which I like. My ultimate goal is to keep the front at right about the height it's at now, get the rear just a little bit lower to match, and firm up the springs all around. It seems the right springs for me to use would be Moog 5658 fronts and 5413 rears. My first question is, does this sound right for my goals? Second, I'd like to do as much of the work as possible on the rear when I install the 8.5, including installing the rear springs and boxing the lower control arms. Will it create problems if I install the new rear springs now and wait to install the new front springs until later when I do a more complete front end rebuild? A future front end rebuild would include springs, new control arm bushings, ball joints, a larger sway bar with poly end-links and bushings, and possibly a brake upgrade. Any advice is appreciated. This picture shows my current ride height, with a full tank of gas.
 

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jamnet

n00b
Feb 2, 2010
1
0
1
Were the heads center exhaust ports siamese. I want to run headers on my1978 cutlass big block but , my c casting heads have siamese center ports. thanks
 

tobyp

Royal Smart Person
Jun 12, 2011
1,708
39
48
Cincinnati, Ohio
Im running the Moog 5660 which are the s-10 v6 springs. All new bushings in the control arms. A 36MM WS-6 Pont T/A Sway Bar, Energy Suspension links, an entire UMI suspension upgrade for the upper and lower control arms, New Energy Suspension bushings in the differential housing, regular rate coils for the rear and a rear sway bar. I too have a sleeper like you it just rumbles a bit at the stop light and handles like a dream. I dont think you could run into any issues changing out any springs. Now if you start swapping rear control arms you will want the alignment checked.

If I were you I would get tubular front control arms. I wish I would have done it.
 

Intragration

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2012
446
1
16
Chicago
Thanks Toby, nice car! That picture of your car in your album, is that with the 5660s and full weight? Your stance looks almost exactly like mine is now, which is how I'd like to keep it. I'll almost certainly go with the 5658s or the 5660s. Most of your other suggestions are on my to-do list. Tubular front arms aren't really, but maybe I'll look into them. Wow, I just noticed, you've got whitewalls even. :) If I could get 3/4" 215-65-15 whitewalls that were made here by an American company for around $100 each, I'd run them forever.

Jam, now you've got me wondering, what the heck did those middle primaries look like? At any rate, yes, I've got regular old iron heads with the siamesed center ports, I just threw the headers on. I want to say the gasket seals all the way around the combined area of both ports, and the primaries come up just like if there was a divider. Makes me wonder if there's a gasket that works with the divider if you have one built in? Anyway, I've got the Hooker 3203s and I'm extremely happy with them and had no problems with them.
 

tobyp

Royal Smart Person
Jun 12, 2011
1,708
39
48
Cincinnati, Ohio
Intragration said:
Thanks Toby, nice car! That picture of your car in your album, is that with the 5660s and full weight? Your stance looks almost exactly like mine is now, which is how I'd like to keep it. I'll almost certainly go with the 5658s or the 5660s. Most of your other suggestions are on my to-do list. Tubular front arms aren't really, but maybe I'll look into them. Wow, I just noticed, you've got whitewalls even. :) If I could get 3/4" 215-65-15 whitewalls that were made here by an American company for around $100 each


Yes I am running the 5660 at the time of that picure with a 350 Buick. I switched to the 235/60/15 which allows me to push the envelope a little more than the 215s The 5660 have somewhat of a stiff ride due to the rate but I really like the way they handle and feel. Boxing in those rear controls are a must. I have a set that I boxed in and then went to the UMI setup. Here are a couple pics below after the new springs were put in.
 

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Intragration

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2012
446
1
16
Chicago
Got any pics with the 15s? I'll be running 235 or 245-60-15s in the back, but I'm limited to 215-65-15 in the front, as a result of the header tubes that go around the frame rail. I'm definitely going to box the rear LCAs when I install the 8.5 Can't wait to get back to work on it...
 

tobyp

Royal Smart Person
Jun 12, 2011
1,708
39
48
Cincinnati, Ohio
Intragration said:
Got any pics with the 15s? I'll be running 235 or 245-60-15s in the back, but I'm limited to 215-65-15 in the front, as a result of the header tubes that go around the frame rail. I'm definitely going to box the rear LCAs when I install the 8.5 Can't wait to get back to work on it...


Here are the 15s. I have a guy wanting my boxed set (which I have laying around doing nothing) if he doesnt come through I can let you know.
 

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