PROJECT: Fade II Black - Salon GT

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84sscutty

Master Mechanic
Oct 10, 2009
318
15
18
Fayetteville, Tennessee
Well guys, I haven't been up to much lately but yesterday me and my pops did get the body of my cutlass back off the frame. All in all, it went pretty smooth. Way smoother than when it was on his warped a$$ hill. (LOL). I have also removed the dash, steering column, and all the forward plastic interior trim. Now I just have to get the frame to the shop so my body bushing mount holes can be repaired. It's only 4 of them but the body shop is gonna replace them all so everything will be all good and matching. I guess I'll post a few pics now.

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A few from underneath
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Seats that I may or may not use (Oldsmobile Bravada-Leather)
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Front
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Body Bushing Mount Holes
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Frame
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Dash
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Few Holes in Passenger Floor
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No Dash or Column
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Manual Doors
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Spare Header Panel
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Column
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May possibly use this Camaro Dash
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Gonna graft these in for my handles
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TPI in a box LOL
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3 Rally Pack Clusters-will sale 2 of them $100 shipped each or trade for Mark viii fan/shroud/pigtail
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84sscutty

Master Mechanic
Oct 10, 2009
318
15
18
Fayetteville, Tennessee
No pics but i do have a very small update. I dropped my frame off at a shop this past Friday to have them fix the body bushing mount holes, I should get it back Tuesday or Wednesday. When it gets home, I will start removing the front suspension so I can send the frame, a-arms, sway bars, etc. to be blasted, primed, and painted. One more thing, I will be finally be having my dyno session this Friday morning if there aren't any snafu's between now and then. I will post pics of the frame when it gets home and will post a video of the dyno run next weekend.
 

L.A.X-RATED

Royal Smart Person
Aug 25, 2010
1,387
385
83
Great start!!! I myself embarked on my first" frame-off" resto on my homies 86 elco last summer and which i am know in the final phases of finnishing this spring/summer.mouthing like the expirience and coveted" bragging rights" that you'll get out of doing this!!!.words of advice; just take everything in stride and break down the workload in sections/phases,i.e.frame,suspension,body,interior,etc.this will help you greatly,and before you know it that badboy will be ready for them streets/track in no time.thankfully im from the west(g-body capital )and didn't have to worry about rust on the el,this and i guess "beginners luck" as far as all the" related" problems(stuborn body bolts,rust,etc):mrgreen:with this being said id say that floor of yours would be my focal/beginning. Point for me.ill be nearing the end of this build this spring/summer,and what has went pretty fast(being my homie wanted a" stock" resto)and lil over a year total down time is i think pretty good.i also am currently envolved in partaking on my now second" frame-off" build,now on my recently squire's 87 ss monte(with t-tops of courseand have separated body from frame.although through my learning expirience on the el this monte will receive a lil more attention,feel me?!
:wink: :mrgreen: i had read you were opting for a manual set-up? With this being mentioned,i had to ask if you'd be interested in selling the auto floor shifter? As im in the hunt for presently for my ss(already have counsole,and just like the olds/regal low-proness appeal better)if interested please pm me and we can discuss it further thanks.happy building and will be staying gunned for the outcome!!!
 

dogsht

Royal Smart Person
Nov 11, 2008
2,003
9
36
Dayton, OH
TPI suggests you are not shooting for big power but fwiw hooking up a stick on 20s gets tough. Any real torque and spin city. At least with something short of drag radials. Maybe its relative I think of high performance driver being something that runs at least 12s. LOL behind my long stoke 509 it would have been like driving on black ice.

I ran this tire w the same height & section width only on smaller 15x8 rims and know it would be killer & fit the Gbody.
http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn ... how_detail

Naturally you can buy it a lot cheaper than that and the picture shows a taller sidewall than what you would actually get with a low profile 45 series 18. Just food for thought.
 

84sscutty

Master Mechanic
Oct 10, 2009
318
15
18
Fayetteville, Tennessee
fraido2002 said:
That looks great. Your floor pans look like mine did, great from underneath and crappy under the carpet. You gotta love t tops. Keep up the good work.

The floor aren't actually that bad. It's mostly surface scale/flake. The only part that is gonna have to be replaced is a section in the passenger-side floor pan. The driver-side top leaked some but the floor is solid on that side, the passenger side didn't leak so I'm guessing it's been leaking around the heater/ac box for some time.

L.A.X-RATED said:
:wink: :mrgreen: i had read you were opting for a manual set-up? With this being mentioned,i had to ask if you'd be interested in selling the auto floor shifter? As im in the hunt for presently for my ss(already have counsole,and just like the olds/regal low-proness appeal better)if interested please pm me and we can discuss it further thanks.happy building and will be staying gunned for the outcome!!!

I will be running a WC T-5 from a 1992 Z-28 Camaro. I would be interested in getting rid of the shifter, it is only a 3 speed shifter though, no click for OD.I will also PM you this so we can discuss further.

dogshit said:
TPI suggests you are not shooting for big power but fwiw hooking up a stick on 20s gets tough. Any real torque and spin city. At least with something short of drag radials. Maybe its relative I think of high performance driver being something that runs at least 12s. LOL behind my long stoke 509 it would have been like driving on black ice.

I ran this tire w the same height & section width only on smaller 15x8 rims and know it would be killer & fit the Gbody.
<a href="http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn=70&rn=378&action=show_detail" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink" class="vglnk">http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn=70&rn=378&action=show_detail</a>

Naturally you can buy it a lot cheaper than that and the picture shows a taller sidewall than what you would actually get with a low profile 45 series 18. Just food for thought.


I will NOT be running the TPI setup in this car, it was just laying there so I took a pic of it too. LOL. I know what ya mean about the 20's spinning but I'm debating just going with a fat set of 18's. I don't expect this car to eally run in the 12's, maybe mid to high 13's. I'm building this car for some street fun and head-turning, and maybe a couple cruise-ins/car shows. I do thank you for the insight though. I like constructive criticism and any advice I can get. I just know that I'm going with LS-1 brakes front and rear and know that a 15 inch wheel won't fit over the calipers.
 

84sscutty

Master Mechanic
Oct 10, 2009
318
15
18
Fayetteville, Tennessee
87ttop said:
how hard was it do get the car off the frame

It was alot easier than you would think. After all bolts were removed, I jacked the body up enough to get the boards sticking out of both sides and believe it or not, done the rest with 2 ol' skool bumpers jacks. Me and my dad went front front to back raising it one block at a time. And it only took about an hour or so once everything wasunbolted and ready to lift.
 
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