Ok guys I've read a few threads and noticed a lot of questions regarding the proper repair of frames. Sense I do heavy collision for a living and once and awhile I lop off the unrepairable I figured Nex time I do I'll take some pictures and explain. Please keep in mind I'm explaining frame repair process and the truck in the pictures is not a g-body but generally the process is the same.
So the vehicle I used is an 11 Silverado but the same theory applies. First off this was a wreck so to start with I needed to put in on my machine and do what I do.
now I know most of you are doing rust repairs however the first thing you should do is mesure!!! Your car is about 30 years old and a lot has happened sense it was built. If you find a something out of alignment fix that first. The next thing on your mind should be the patch panel or repair section. The frame I've shone measured diamond 24 mm so as shone in the above pictures I held the left rail and pulled the right ahead untill it was square again. My new rail section came with a GM process of replacement bulletin. That tells me were to cut the rail and so on. On your car you won't have such luxuries. So mesure your new part carful to find were to cut your car
Note the end of the rail has a small sleeve this is very important when splicing a rail that's the only way unless you do it at a factory seem the sleeve slides in and gives you a backer to weld into before installing the part grind the edges on a 45° for good weld penetration
keep your cuts square and straight as possible but remember a pice of tape for a line can easily be followed with a grinder so it's not that critical just cut long and grind to size this is were all your boring mesurments from the beginning come into play. Getting the part in the right spot there's no taking it back once it's welded.
Slide the parts together for a fit test first time is never a charm once you do get it to fit paint the weld zone with a weld threw primer slip it back together mesure for fit and well and I mean weld! I make 4 tack welds on each rail to keep it from moving when it gets hot then follow the GM instructions first weld the top and bottom of each rail threw the corners then the inside last the outside. That's what GM wants and it works great
one weld per side it's not sheet metal
do not grind off your welds! Big no no as per GM, I-CAR, and NHRA grinding or smoothing welds weekens them and frames are structure so weld it nice wire wheel it primed it and paint it on late models I shoot a little undercoating on them to match the factory wax coating
can't load anymore pictures hang on
So the vehicle I used is an 11 Silverado but the same theory applies. First off this was a wreck so to start with I needed to put in on my machine and do what I do.
Note the end of the rail has a small sleeve this is very important when splicing a rail that's the only way unless you do it at a factory seem the sleeve slides in and gives you a backer to weld into before installing the part grind the edges on a 45° for good weld penetration
Slide the parts together for a fit test first time is never a charm once you do get it to fit paint the weld zone with a weld threw primer slip it back together mesure for fit and well and I mean weld! I make 4 tack welds on each rail to keep it from moving when it gets hot then follow the GM instructions first weld the top and bottom of each rail threw the corners then the inside last the outside. That's what GM wants and it works great
