CURRENT 6.0/4l80E swap parts = $$$$

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FastCraig

Master Mechanic
Sep 11, 2017
407
594
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Huntington, WV
Thanks to everyone who contributed. Much appreciated. There are a few things I will change, several changes I wil consider and some new things I need to address. VVT/DOD, what would be the advantages of keeping as opposed to eliminating? I will likely go with the Holley engine and frame mounts as many members here and the LS site have good things to say about them.. I already have a Jeg's crossmember.
Anubis, I am keeping the 6L80. It is a heavy duty truck trans with a trans cooler that doesn't leak or slip. The SS is already not original and any changes made will be to enhance performance. I will do the trans tunnel right and not hack up my ride. If I have a 100% donor vehicle with the harness intact, what would be the benefit of making my own harness?
I will definately upgrade the valvetrain and have some "mild" head work done. I will have the money set aside for this swap and I want to do it righ before install and not be wishing I had done something when I had the chance. I'm still kind of second guessing the truck intake with the 75 to 80mm TB. Not sure of the exact size based on what I have been seeing. It does appear that an LS3 type intake would keep more power where I need it most so I will look at that option over a sheet metal intake.
Northernregal, good idea to reuse the truck fuel pump. I already have upgraded fuel lines. I have tentatively decided on a 2800 stall converter and will, at least do a shift improver kit if I don't have to rebuild the trans. I have never heard of Elgin cams. Since I am planning on doing some headwork would that cam still work? I am wanting to keep my power in the low to midrange primarily because that is where I'll spend most of my time with occasional wide open, high rpm runs.
Alot of good info and alot of things to consider and research. Again, thanks to everyone who has contributed. It helps to have experienced people to bounce ideas off of and keep me from stupid, costly mistakes.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Thanks to everyone who contributed. Much appreciated. There are a few things I will change, several changes I wil consider and some new things I need to address. VVT/DOD, what would be the advantages of keeping as opposed to eliminating? I will likely go with the Holley engine and frame mounts as many members here and the LS site have good things to say about them.. I already have a Jeg's crossmember.
Anubis, I am keeping the 6L80. It is a heavy duty truck trans with a trans cooler that doesn't leak or slip. The SS is already not original and any changes made will be to enhance performance. I will do the trans tunnel right and not hack up my ride. If I have a 100% donor vehicle with the harness intact, what would be the benefit of making my own harness?
I will definately upgrade the valvetrain and have some "mild" head work done. I will have the money set aside for this swap and I want to do it righ before install and not be wishing I had done something when I had the chance. I'm still kind of second guessing the truck intake with the 75 to 80mm TB. Not sure of the exact size based on what I have been seeing. It does appear that an LS3 type intake would keep more power where I need it most so I will look at that option over a sheet metal intake.
Northernregal, good idea to reuse the truck fuel pump. I already have upgraded fuel lines. I have tentatively decided on a 2800 stall converter and will, at least do a shift improver kit if I don't have to rebuild the trans. I have never heard of Elgin cams. Since I am planning on doing some headwork would that cam still work? I am wanting to keep my power in the low to midrange primarily because that is where I'll spend most of my time with occasional wide open, high rpm runs.
Alot of good info and alot of things to consider and research. Again, thanks to everyone who has contributed. It helps to have experienced people to bounce ideas off of and keep me from stupid, costly mistakes.

You were given very clear direction on what parts to use and steps to take. Yet, you insist on following your preconceived notions. JUST. STOP. IT.

Stick a cam in it and lose the DOD unless you want failed lifters. Don't touch the heads, they flow enough for a BBC in stock form - maybe mill them and lap the valves. Run the stock truck intake, it is ugly but glorious. Get all the Holley swap parts. Leave the internals of the 6L80E alone (lots are going faster than you without reworking the internals). Get a higher stall to match the torque band of your cam.

I am going to go back to work writing policy documents now... it is less frustrating.
 
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L92 OLDS

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 30, 2012
2,872
3,050
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West Michigan
Thanks to everyone who contributed. Much appreciated. There are a few things I will change, several changes I wil consider and some new things I need to address. VVT/DOD, what would be the advantages of keeping as opposed to eliminating? I will likely go with the Holley engine and frame mounts as many members here and the LS site have good things to say about them.. I already have a Jeg's crossmember.
Anubis, I am keeping the 6L80. It is a heavy duty truck trans with a trans cooler that doesn't leak or slip. The SS is already not original and any changes made will be to enhance performance. I will do the trans tunnel right and not hack up my ride. If I have a 100% donor vehicle with the harness intact, what would be the benefit of making my own harness?
I will definately upgrade the valvetrain and have some "mild" head work done. I will have the money set aside for this swap and I want to do it righ before install and not be wishing I had done something when I had the chance. I'm still kind of second guessing the truck intake with the 75 to 80mm TB. Not sure of the exact size based on what I have been seeing. It does appear that an LS3 type intake would keep more power where I need it most so I will look at that option over a sheet metal intake.
Northernregal, good idea to reuse the truck fuel pump. I already have upgraded fuel lines. I have tentatively decided on a 2800 stall converter and will, at least do a shift improver kit if I don't have to rebuild the trans. I have never heard of Elgin cams. Since I am planning on doing some headwork would that cam still work? I am wanting to keep my power in the low to midrange primarily because that is where I'll spend most of my time with occasional wide open, high rpm runs.
Alot of good info and alot of things to consider and research. Again, thanks to everyone who has contributed. It helps to have experienced people to bounce ideas off of and keep me from stupid, costly mistakes.

Glad we can help you. Many guys buy a stand alone harness ($1000) but my recommendation to make your own means use your factory harness. This is not a plug and play process as many wires and plugs will be removed and thrown in the trash. Search Youtube for "stand alone LS harness" and you will find resources. lt1swap.com has pin out information and will guide you through the process of simplifying your 2009 harness. DOD is not conducive to performance. Remove it. The DOD lifters are weak and need to be replaced. VVT on the other hand is good for performance and fuel economy, especially if you "want to keep your power in the low to midrange". Keep VVT and buy a performance VVT camshaft kit with springs from Texas Speed. Your engine and harness is already set up for VVT. The truck fuel pump may not fit the G body hanger. Head work if you choose to do it isn't needed to meet your HP goals but if done properly could be a plus. L92 heads in stock form already flow very well....in many cases better than expensive aftermarket heads for SBC. Your intake is the same as my 6.2 and it flows better than aftermarket intakes. If you don't like the way it looks you can shave them to eliminate the ribs and gussets. Spending money on an LS3 intake is also an option but then your FEAD system may need to change for throttle body clearance. The truck alternator and idler pulley interfere.


http://lt1swap.com/geniv_harness.htm
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
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Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
Man. If you have square port 823 heads you need to spend a lot of money on aftermarket heads or CNC port work to get better. They flow 320 cfm bone stock. Don’t touch them.

Matt Happel made around 350 hp at the wheel (don’t remember exact numbers) with a 4.8 and a Elgin 1840p cam cathedral port 799 heads and a TBSS intake. So your call. Youre throwing away money if you reinvent the wheel. Elgin makes the cams for a lot of other manufacturers. Google the Sloppymechanics wiki page.

The Gen 4 bottom end is good for 1000whp bone stock on boost. Don’t touch it.

Your heads flow enough for 525hp in a GMPP LS3. Don’t worry about them unless they NEED work, they will handle way more than your trying to get.

The intake is -5hp at the top end compared to an LS3 intake and +5-6ft/lbs at mid range (google the LS3 intake comparison on Hot Rod mag) So it’s cosmetic if you decide to change it. It will accept a 95mm throttle body if you absolutely must change it.

Anubis is correct, the pump won’t adapt to your hanger, so get a walbro 255.

You will need to modify the stock harness to make it work and delete some things on the tune so its happy. It will Throw codes for all kinds of things that will send it into limp mode if you don’t. Get a pro to do it and flash a tune. THAT is what you need to spend the money on.

And that trans is built for an 18000lb GCVW truck. It doesn’t need a rebuild to handle the power. Lots of guys are putting 4L80e transmission’s In boosted cars running 600 whp or way more with nothing more than a shift kit and the 6L80 is an updated trans. So consider it before you waste money there.

Take a day off, load up YouTube and check out the “don’t bs me build” on sloppy Mechanics. Invest 4-5 hours and learn. That guys is a pretty good tuner and has tested all these preconceived ideas. He’s blown up a lot of motors to distill down the knowledge of what works and what isn’t needed. Check it out, you’ll be very surprised.
 
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fastNYsix

Greasemonkey
Jan 24, 2017
102
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I researched many hours on ls swapping my Regal, and most of the info came from here or Sloppy mechanics. Trust what we are telling you, we've already done it.
 
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FastCraig

Master Mechanic
Sep 11, 2017
407
594
93
Huntington, WV
OK. I'll run the stock truck manifold. I'll only work the heads if they really need it and upgrade the valve train and cam. I'll rebuild the trans only if it is needed. I am going to do the 2800 converter though. I've gotten used to the TH350. It shifts hard and I like it. If I end up not rebuilding anything I can afford to get some UMC stuff for the weak azz frame and get a better set of headers.
 
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Turbolq4

Royal Smart Person
Sep 25, 2017
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Nampa Idaho
Just to throw a wrench in the works here... I'm partially sure that his particular engine didn't have DOD. Don't think the work trucks got it due to reliability concerns. Should still have cam voodoo though.
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
12,826
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Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
Just to throw a wrench in the works here... I'm partially sure that his particular engine didn't have DOD. Don't think the work trucks got it due to reliability concerns. Should still have cam voodoo though.

You might be right. 2009 was the first year and the option probably didn’t hit the 2500 series for a while.
 

FastCraig

Master Mechanic
Sep 11, 2017
407
594
93
Huntington, WV
Been reading up on cams. Dropping in a cam and tune and getting 70 to 100 hp. Pretty impressive. Has anyone on here realized that kind of improvement from a stock motor with a cam upgrade? I was t to keep my VVT to help with d daily driving and it appears that staying below 600/240 would be safe. When i m ready to start my swap I'll take advantage of the cam builders engineers and call them to match a cam package with my trans, converter and gearing. It looks like I can have basically a stock engine nd have close to 500 in a DD. I think I could get used to that. You all were right on with your recommendations. Keeping the truckmaniflod, no head porting or CBC needed.
 
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