Deleting A/C, but want to retain heat.

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Rktpwrd

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Feb 2, 2015
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Joe, I too did something similar to the other guys, but maybe even a bit simpler and possibly more along the lines of what you’re thinking. No cutting or modifying of the box required.

Once the evaporator was removed and the heater core replaced, I fabbed up a really simple cover with an inside bend out of light gauge sheet metal. Trimmed it to match the shape of the box around it, painted it to match the a/c box, and urethaned it in place. Keeps the water and elements out, and seals up the box so you don’t have a parasitic loss in the fan efficiency.

118C0C73-73E6-4C74-B663-483C3EDFD967.jpeg


Hope this helps.

D.
 
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Joe, I too did something similar to the other guys, but maybe even a bit simpler and possibly more along the lines of what you’re thinking. No cutting or modifying of the box required.

Once the evaporator was removed and the heater core replaced, I fabbed up a really simple cover with an inside bend out of light gauge sheet metal. Trimmed it to match the shape of the box around it, painted it to match the a/c box, and urethaned it in place. Keeps the water and elements out, and seals up the box so you don’t have a parasitic loss in the fan efficiency.

View attachment 98310

Hope this helps.

D.

That looks great, I think that looks better than my foam idea, probably just as easy too. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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When you put the AC back on in the future, the most you'll need to elongate some wire/shorten the AC lines to account for the extra pair of cylinders, but physically everything bolts up V6 compressor and all. This engine isn't mine, but it's a SBB350 with all the AC stuff on the engine.
sbbac.jpg


Edit: I do notice he doesn't have the support bar for the top of the alternato rbracket in place, I advise against that. All it needs is about an inch chopped out of it and re-clocked to bolt into a hole on the factory intake, convienently used for the long 70s style compressor brackets.
 
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Tofast4U

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 8, 2019
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Yes. All you have to do is remove the A/C guts and block the holes. I even trimmed mine without taking the box out. I made templates out of thin pizza box cardboard, transferred it to "tin", bent to fit, put silicone rtv on the seams, and used an adhesive-backed foam strip to seal the lid panel to the box panel. Even with the shoddy job I did, I've had zero problems and when the heat's off the heat's off.
View attachment 98238
Quick question for you, Those two vacuum lines where does the the white one run up towards the firewall. Mine has been cut and just wondering.
 

307 Regal

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Quick question for you, Those two vacuum lines where does the the white one run up towards the firewall. Mine has been cut and just wondering.
Picture 267.jpg
The white one runs up to the disk shaped device on the heater hose. Unfortunately I don't remember what this device is called. It's been a few years since my engine swap.
 

Streetbu

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May 22, 2011
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It shuts coolant flow off to the heater core so the system only gives off cold air conditioned air or at the very least no heat... You should have one on your heater hoses even in a car without air conditioning.
 
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pagrunt

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The vacuum operated water valve is only on A/C cars. Non A/C cars have a cable operated door to control the temperature.
 
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airboatgreg

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You also have to remember that you HVC is also a de-fog and a de-hue. Makes for more pleasant interior environment. Make-up don't run on the wife and her panty hose don't stick. Hell. that's got to be worth keeping the AC
 
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Tofast4U

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 8, 2019
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Thanks Guys I will need to look into what I have and more of what I don't have. IDo you need The vacuum operated water valve to get defrost? Mine has been taken out and the spliced the hose with a PVC piece... So need to do some more research.. Thanks Again...
 
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