Back when I had a traditional opening fiberglass hood in the mid 90's, I did the strut mounts from junkyard parts & some trial & error.Of course I didn't document , hardly knew what internet was then, but I have seen others threads like these in the past where someone listed what they use.
Shock mounts could be made to bolt on to hood brace or weld on. I think I welded the stud to the hood brace on mine to eliminate the nut for a cleaner appearance. Pretty sure napa has new shock studs listed.
Now for a little simple weight handling/ geometry lesson from someone with a little mechanism experience. With the same given hydraulic part , moving mounts forward will increase weight capacity/stiffness and decrease available travel. Moving rearwards towards hinges will decrease stiffness and increase available hood opening. Shock will stop at full opening unless you have a limiter. Shock compression when closed can vary as long as it doesn't bottom out & bind hood closing. A longer shock will have more working room.
If needing to calculate mounting points vs opening & closing of hood, make it easy & remove hood. Then cut sticks to centerline of shock mounts at extended & compressed lengths. Now you can easily see what the hell needs to happen.
Another option for purchasing shocks is a truck topper or camping supply chain such as Camping world. They sell by length & strength rating. 60 lb rating would likely be a good guess remembering that geometry affects that little rating number. Boat supply places may have stainless units that can be further polished.
I'm also pretty sure that I remember from the days of g-bodies being common in junkyards that different model hinges were different. I think it was some regal model that had a more useful something to it. of course different mounts can be made or adapted if needed.
But don't listen to me, I know nothing about hood opening.
20150326_153702 by
joe leleux, on Flickr
20150326_153733 by
joe leleux, on Flickr
4-carshow-83elcam-640x400 by
joe leleux, on Flickr