Prepping for paint job and need advice

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old80cs

G-Body Guru
Jun 27, 2013
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Hello all,

my 80' Cutlass has been wallowing for more years than I care to admit to and I'm hoping to get started stripping the body panels in preparation for a new paint job. My original paint is shot and needs to be completely removed to go forward. My biggest question at this time is if I strip a panel (area, roof, rear quarter panel etc.) at a time to bare metal can I spray an epoxy primer to seal the metal and put minor body filler work over it? Or does filler go on bare metal only? I'm not a body man by any account but would like to strip the car and get it sealed as it will no doubt sit for a while between work. Any thoughts and help is appreciated.

Mike
 

pagrunt

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Sep 14, 2014
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Stipping then spraying epoxy/sealer will be the way to go as if you don't have time to keep on with the body work the metal will have some protection. Putting filler over the epoxy/sealer is the correct way. Another thing to do is using different color primers to give you an idea how wavy things are as you sand everything down & help you see that everything is getting level. With the filler do thin coats to cover the work area so in the end only enough filler will be left help with filling the low spots even & level.
 
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mikester

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Mar 10, 2010
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What are you using to strip the paint off ? If its a DA and paper and youve never done it before my biggest advice is to keep the sander moving. Too long in one place will cause heat and possibly warp the panel.
 
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Ribbedroof

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Jan 4, 2009
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As always, read the sheet for the product you'll be using.

But generally, filler over epoxy is fine, and in most restoration shops is the preferred method. Seals out moisture, so far fewer concerns with corrosion down the road.
 
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Ribbedroof

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1K etch primers are really not the best way to proceed. If the metal is properly sanded per the data sheet, that's all the etch it'll need

For what it's worth, SPI epoxy is a favorite over on the HAMB board. PPG or Axalta will send you to the poor house. I used to use a lot of U-Pol stuff, never had an issue.

Both are much more reasonably priced for the DIYer
 
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jlcustomz

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Nov 22, 2011
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Different epoxies are different, as are answers you'll get from different people.
I'm switching over to SPI products last few years so I'll give a few instructions & results related to theirs.
Seen many different tests done where filler sticks better over epoxy ,as well as metal is sealed better. Can be fillered first, but many of the best of restoration experts epoxy first You do have important things such as minimum temps or it won't cure. Ever. Not under 65 degrees for 24 hours. You have time windows for use such as best not to apply fillers for 2 days, but don't need to sand for adhesion for 7 days. Can apply 2k primer after 1 day. A thinned coat of epoxy makes the best sealer just before paint, greatly improves adhesion.
Best to induce epoxy, which means mix it & let set at least 1/2 hr before use or even ovenite, Enhances some qualities.I have kept some mixed in a sealed container for several days, just added a little reducer to it.
Lots of info on the website forums, homepage & products info, technical manual. Read & learn.
I'll be using their black /black single stage paint.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/8ced3e_deb3a911fe14479f8309bb98b92da83f.pdf
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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Stripped my El Camino using these:
PearlStripDisc-2.jpg


IMG_5461.JPG


Prepped for epoxy primer using 80 grit on a D/A:

IMG_54821.JPG


Sprayed with SPI epoxy primer. One coat of black followed by 2 coats of gray:

IMG_5529.JPG


The next day I sprayed Evercoat Slick Sand polyester primer on the areas I knew would need a lot of block sanding to achieve flat panels:

IMG_5543.JPG


After some initial block sanding, I added filler where needed:

IMG_5658.JPG


Followed up this work with 2 additional coats of SPI gray epoxy primer that I blocked with 400 then 600 in preparation for paint. Hood, fenders, doors and tailgate were removed for paint. SPI single stage white.

IMG_6039.JPG


See my project thread for additional details.

IMG_03531.JPG
 
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old80cs

G-Body Guru
Jun 27, 2013
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Massachusetts
Thanks for all the information guys. I will be stripping the car with an electric DA and 80 grit paper. I need to read up, check pricing on and figure out what paint brands are readily available to me. Last time in to Advance Commercial, they have the Exalta line, supposedly it replaced Dupont? Did a dealer search for U-pol and it's available close by as well. Have a bunch of research left to do before I get going, and a bunch of family/house stuff to get sorted and finished up as well. Thanks again!
 
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fleming442

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Dec 26, 2013
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I will be stripping the car with an electric DA and 80 grit paper.
You're going to need something more aggressive to get through the factory stuff; it's pretty tough. Click my build thread in the sig line to see what not to do.
Don't skip the guide coat, or you'll disappoint yourself.
I've only attempted 2 large bodywork projects in my life, and I can tell you emphatically that I DON'T LIKE IT, not one bit, not even close. Then again, I like to play with wires, so maybe that explains something? :unsure:
 
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