Starter Wiring Metal Tube Removal
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That will be next to test under dash, but logically don't understand why that would be the problem. 3 wires from solenoid (1 to ignition switch? always hot, 1 to headlights? always hot, and 1 to fuel pump relay always hot.) Seems something should work inside car even if it is the switch because switch is not getting all the power.
Update: Was hoping battery would be bad under load even though showing 12.6v. Advance Auto test shows battery failed. Went to Battery Source to buy battery because have had bad experiences with Advance batts. At Battery Source, 2 different machines (one very sophisticated that even considers battery temp), show holding 10.2v for 15 seconds. Battery is good. Grrrr. Their premium battery taken off the shelf showed 10v as expected due to shelf time. Mine was better. Don't know why Advance test failed, but no matter. Still makes no sense.
Yes, should have no effect, but good question to cover all the bases. Nothing inside, but a week or so ago, replaced supply and return fuel rail O-rings and had to remove PFLS connector from alternator (CS!30) to do that. Replaced connector and car running after that. After O-ring replacement, decided to add an alternator sense wire to see if could boost voltage at idle. Added 12g. wire from PFLS connector stub and connected to + battery. Not the ideal spot, but car running after that and idle voltage up slightly.. Connected or not, don't believe that should have effect on cranking, but at this point willing to accept any suggestions.
Not sure how your car is wired compared to my 81 but one wire from my alternator went into the factory splice that was in the harness on my intake. Hard to remember how the wires ran but I think one went to the starter and the other ran to the bulkhead connector. Not sure but could the issue be one of those wires ?
BTW, If you look at either one of my build threads you'll see Im also not good at electrical problems. LOL
Can't answer that question without a complete wiring dive, which I'll consider as a last resort. But when looking at the Gbody wiring diagram for 78-87 Elky, it shows 2 wires from solenoid to: (1) ignition and 2 (headlights). My 3rd wire is likely to the TPI fuel pump relay. I purchased the car 10 years ago with wiring already done, so have no clue. Regarding the PFLS connector which I don't believe is the issue, before the sense wire have only one other wire which has not been touched. That's the 'L" wire to the lamp/volt gauge. I have a gauge and no lamp, so wire has a resistor in it to ensure the resistance of the lamp is met. Has been that way forever.
So help me with this: Every time I got the click, all battery voltage to car immediately disappeared. But later it reappeared after some diddling only to disappear if attempt cranking again. Granted, I'm far from an electrical genius, but everything points the battery that has been diagnosed to be perfect. Two reasons behind that:
- Hours of googling indicate the single click issue is battery related by not providing enough cranking volts
- In all my years of gear-heading, I've never seen an electrical issue where current has "reappeared". It's a blown fusable link, faulty/failed relay, bad switch, et., that can only again provide voltage when repaired. That's not the case here.
Am really struggling with this so any thought/insight appreciated,. Have checked every ground connection under hood. All solid. Unfortunately can't run voltage drops because no voltage.
What other than the battery can cause a total loss of current only to have it later reappear. HELP!!!
I quit buying Carquest batteries for the very same problem you are having. Did you try a different battery, or are you going solely off load test results?
If voltage is there, then disappears, it can only be two things IMO. Either a loose connection, or a circuit breaker somewhere. Or something acting like one.
Here's a little story about a 71 442 that one day, out of the blue, was driving down the road. Then the engine died. Cranky cranky grab your wanky. Nothing. WTF? Checked everything possible under the hood. After about 10-15 minutes.....vroom! WTF???
Got it home, died in the driveway. Once again, 15 minutes later, vroom! Ran for about 5 to 6 minutes or so, then died. Mystery machine. I found it while doing a voltage check on the coil when it was running.
Turns out the bulkhead spade connector missed and was touching backside to the spade. Why after a zillion years it decided to just up and decide to be a cycling switch all of a sudden is anyone's guess. A factory fugg up that bit me years later.
Here's a little story about a 71 442 that one day, out of the blue, was driving down the road. Then the engine died. Cranky cranky grab your wanky. Nothing. WTF? Checked everything possible under the hood. After about 10-15 minutes.....vroom! WTF???
Got it home, died in the driveway. Once again, 15 minutes later, vroom! Ran for about 5 to 6 minutes or so, then died. Mystery machine. I found it while doing a voltage check on the coil when it was running.
Turns out the bulkhead spade connector missed and was touching backside to the spade. Why after a zillion years it decided to just up and decide to be a cycling switch all of a sudden is anyone's guess. A factory fugg up that bit me years later.
Yes, going off test results with very sophisticated machine. Battery is good. And BTW, Battery Source's best Size 78 battery is only $119 compared to the box stores $159 and up and has better specs. Plus has 6 year warranty, 2 yr. no question replacement, with remaining 4 yrs. prorated. Big box all 2-3 yrs. prorated only.
UPDATE: From a few moments ago. I believe have narrowed the issue to the battery backup siren (Viper 515R). This is an additional siren on my alarm system that goes off any time the battery is disconnected. Can turn off with a key and disconnect battery. Have discovered that I've been trying to start the car with it turned off. I Don't believe that's causing the problem, but if there's an alarm guru out there would appreciate your input.
Here's what I do know now after several tests:
- Disconnect and reconnect battery and have voltage in car (with 515R on or off). Makes sense. Yea! Apparently 515R is resetting itself or the entire alarm system is resetting things
- Try and start car with 515R turned on, get single click at starter, no change in voltage across battery, and entire car is dead. So it appears the 515R is preventing the car from starting. Have no clue as to why.
- Turned 515R off to disconnect/reconnect battery to regain voltage in car. Turned 515R back on and iit went off indicating the battery is disconnected which it was not. Turned off and alarm stops. It's totally confused. This is what leads me to believe it's the issue.
I can only guess that after the last time the car ran properly a few days ago, the 515R went into some sort of failure mode, and/or or is now confused due to all the battery disconnects/reconnects (which BTY I did when adding the sense wire) . Maybe that had something to do with it starting all this. I also notice that the siren is not nearly as loud as it used to be which would indicate the internal batteries are failing or have not been charging.
Any alarm experts out there who know how to reset this thing, remove it, or reset the entire Viper alarm system. I'd like to disconnect the 515R it to see if can get car started, but don't know how to do that.
Thanks for the continued input. Keep it coming. We're making progress and I feel good that something is resetting to cause the battery voltage to be reapplied to the car. That piece now makes sense.
Continue the help coming. It's much appreciated!
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