Best thread in fan switch

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Oct 14, 2008
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Looking for one that turns on around 180 degrees, shut off any temp reasonable. Pretty sure I have tried the Summit and maybe Painless both failed. Willing to pay more for quality and will buy a spare. Plan on upgrading to a 4 pin 60 amp relay and buying a spare as well.
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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the Summit and..... Painless both failed.
I've only used the Painful one, and, yes, I had a failure. I don't see how it could only tripping a relay coil. It prompted me to install a manual override. Of course, that only works as long as the water pump pulley stays in one piece (it fragged the last time).
 
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pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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what thermostat are you using, if your using a 180 you can will be on all the time and why do you want the engine to run that cool?
 
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Oct 14, 2008
8,806
7,746
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
what thermostat are you using, if your using a 180 you can will be on all the time and why do you want the engine to run that cool?
Right now whatever is a factory thermostat on a 260, assume 195. I may have a 160 but thinking a 180 high flow in the Performer going on the 350. Staying warm enough is not an issue on my 88, too warm is more the problem. I plan on getting a new condensor and A/C compressor for next year. Along with a GN flap kit, hopefully I can keep it around 200 max. I have blown a least one 40 relay plus the 40 amp relay board in a Flexalite controller. These fans draw some amps on start up. I have gone through at least 3 thermal switches maybe more. I have the low fans on a 20 amp illuminated switch direct wired to the battery with a 30 amp inline fuse. Yeah, too many failures to not have a manual back up.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
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Kitchener, Ontario
I have had problems with thermal switches but it turned out I had a bad ground on the engine...the Fast sysltem I have now had a thermal switch for the fan so I'll see how that does, I have a bypass switch for that fan plus and other bypass switch for the push fan which is activated by the sensor rood through the fins in the rad.
 
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Oct 14, 2008
8,806
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Melville,Saskatchewan
Last push in rad sensor was bad out of box. I also had other Derale controllers that the wiring fell out of. Also had a Derale adjustable controller that self adjusted usually to 250 degrees.
 

Bri guy

G-Body Guru
May 18, 2018
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Right now whatever is a factory thermostat on a 260, assume 195. I may have a 160 but thinking a 180 high flow in the Performer going on the 350. Staying warm enough is not an issue on my 88, too warm is more the problem. I plan on getting a new condensor and A/C compressor for next year. Along with a GN flap kit, hopefully I can keep it around 200 max. I have blown a least one 40 relay plus the 40 amp relay board in a Flexalite controller. These fans draw some amps on start up. I have gone through at least 3 thermal switches maybe more. I have the low fans on a 20 amp illuminated switch direct wired to the battery with a 30 amp inline fuse. Yeah, too many failures to not have a manual back up.
So this is what I get to look forward to when my fans arrive 😐
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,806
7,746
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
So this is what I get to look forward to when my fans arrive 😐
Which is why I suggested the 4 blade, non clutch fan, other than the blades falling off after a ton of miles, nothing can go wrong with them. I'm sure the $200+ PWM controllers are nice and last as they should.
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,806
7,746
113
Melville,Saskatchewan

They have more than the website shows


(773)599-3067 ask for Frank
That looks like a good kit for Briguy. My controller is Ok, just need two $15 for the pair 60 amp relays and two 180 to 190 on and 160 to 175 off thermostats. I want to spend as little as possible but willing to pay slightly more for the Thermostat's IF they will last.
 
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