yes, it would require a stroker crank or an offset grind which, in most cases, might not be worth the gains
Stroking G-Body Motors
- Thread starter Max Headroom
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yes, it would require a stroker crank or an offset grind which, in most cases, might not be worth the gains
My plan isn't charged with anything. I do small block chevy. I figured a way to install a stroker crank and keep everything else pretty much the same by adding in something I came up with. It would allow a person to add cubic inches in the form of longer stroke. It would work on most engines. Whether that engine is worth doing the mod on is a personal judgement.
So tell me that no one has ever started with a low compression, open chamber engine and built more power by changing parts and adding upgrades. What I am proposing is EXACTLY the same thing, except step one is increasing the stroke. When I think critically about making power, this seems like a good way to start.
I am going to build one and will post pics and process. If no one is interested, it is no skin off my *ss.
While I am curious as to how you plan on doing this by only replacing a crank IMO anyone willing to spend the money on a new stroker crank and your kit just so they can install this in a used engine (and in our cars who knows if you even have actual mileage) would most likely just spend the extra money and get an actual balanced rotating assembly that they will install in a freshly machined block that has been bored and honed and now will have stronger rods, new rings and bearings along with new pistons that are designed with clearance for the stroker crank.
The conventional way of stroking an engine has worked well for a long time and appears to still be growing strong so it might be hard to gage interest when you are not willing to give out a single detail and your Guinea pig engine is a SBC, probably the most commonly stroked engine ever, conventionally at least.
So those are my thoughts, others will vary.
Holy crackpipe. Just read through this thread. Wow.
That's all I got. Except maybe a stroking joke but I'm still thinking that up...
That's all I got. Except maybe a stroking joke but I'm still thinking that up...
Explain to me how this significantly improves the Volumetric Efficiency of this otherwise gutless engine? Making the internal size of the pump larger does not directly translate to better pump performance if it is rife with restrictions on the intake and/or exhaust side.
Porting the heads, adding a cam with more duration, exhaust scavenging, these things make the difference in air pump performance.
Exactly, who wants a 8-8.5 to 1 stroker motor? I pointed out an Olds 350 of all things with 9 to 1 with very good vacuum, I believe 19" with being able to run a 89 according to the builder. I say more like 87 if vacuum advance is limited to about 20 degrees with the usual 20 base and 16 to 18 mechanical coming in fairly quickly, that the Olds V8 likes. Not everyone wants or can afford a 10+ to 1 aluminum head motor. I get not being absolutely stuck, having to run premium and being on the ragged edge. Another big part of getting rid of factory pistons and rods is they are weak and outdated. Mahle is now using 1mm ring packs, others use much less drag with 1.5mm/1/16" rings vs our power robbing 5/16" factory rings on weak cast pistons and aftermarket rods are way lighter and twice the strength of stock rods.
Why the Most Powerful Engines Have Short Strokes and Big Bores
The shorter the stroke, the more an engine can rev. And the more it can rev, the more power it can make.
www.roadandtrack.com
How Rod Lengths and Ratios Affect Performance
Changing the length of the rods with respect to the stroke of the crankshaft offers some advantages in certain situations.
www.enginebuildermag.com
Brule, Dulcich, and Freiburger tested the theory on an Engine Masters episode. The difference in performance by changing rod length and stroke was minimal .........
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