In short, jump on RacingJunk.com find a roller with a VIN, a four-link and a 25.x certified jungle gym, and go stupid fast.
Something that doesn't do this:
Also why I am putting in all of the extra bracing.
MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)
- Thread starter motorheadmike
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In short, jump on RacingJunk.com find a roller with a VIN, a four-link and a 25.x certified jungle gym, and go stupid fast.
Something that doesn't do this:
Also why I am putting in all of the extra bracing.
The guy who bought my Wagon is a chassis/turbo fabricator and has been into the 25.X fab chassis game for a few years. Typically people bring cars to him and he builds to their specs. Lately though he is trying to get into buying clean stock rollers, install 25.X chassis, then market. Basically remove the customer interaction since there is a lot of customer input on a turbo fab build but a chassis is restricted enough by safety specs that there isn't much flexibility. Then the buyer installs the wheels, powertrain, and paints how they want.
I asked how you can make money on that since it seems like there are always affordable rollers that are pennies on the dollar. His response is that most are either A) 8.50 or slower or B) junk. He basically said any cheap 25.X chassis roller isn't something you want to go 25.X speed in. It's often certified but sketchy, or not cert'ed and why it's for sale.
So although I agree that buying a 25.X roller is a good backup plan, from my understanding the likelihood you will find a reduced price 25.X roller that doesn't need extensive rework is slim.
I asked how you can make money on that since it seems like there are always affordable rollers that are pennies on the dollar. His response is that most are either A) 8.50 or slower or B) junk. He basically said any cheap 25.X chassis roller isn't something you want to go 25.X speed in. It's often certified but sketchy, or not cert'ed and why it's for sale.
So although I agree that buying a 25.X roller is a good backup plan, from my understanding the likelihood you will find a reduced price 25.X roller that doesn't need extensive rework is slim.
Fair enough and thanks for the heads up, but I like my life enough that I would get something quality and pay for it. Just like my helmet.
Sounds like the local roundy round crowd here. You can tell the cars only have cages because they're required as very little effort is spent on making them decent.
Locally their is a lot of hoopla about many of the local classes going to running the 1/8th rather than the 1/4. Some of the same mentality applies. The old school high 9 and low 10 cars don't need a bunch to make everyone feel safe, but the track promotors are concerned about chassis that are 'legal' or mostly legal to run 8.50. The safety factor increases exponentially shutting down at 120mph 1/8th's. Basically 7 second 1/4 cars are much safer/less risky running 1/8th's.
To each his own - I know how much butt hole clenching occurs on my end at 140ish.
To each his own - I know how much butt hole clenching occurs on my end at 140ish.
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Should mention that I'm expecting to need TP at the end of the run if I can get to 155 :-/
Yeah, but they suck *ss. I'm going to try the Afco oversized calipers and EBC Yellow Stuff pads.
If all else fails - aim at the sand.
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