What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

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ck80

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What could I use to hammer it back down without leaving witness marks of the tool that I used? I'm thinking maybe a 2x4?
Many years ago I bought a curved auto body dolly block. It was pretty cheap. You hit the metal with the flat hammer using that and it pushed the selected curve in.

Wonder if using the spoons through that contorted access hole would get it closer too?
 
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scoti

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Minimal 'big' hammer blows (minimal as possible). Lots of small hammer work.

As for an initial backer, anything hard enough that it supports the sheet-metal on top of it since that's what is getting the brunt of the impacts. A 2x4 can be used to get things going. The closer you get to the finer metal tweaks, the harder you'll want your backer material to have. I use bodywork dolly forms as well as 2"sq .250 wall tubing when trying to flatten things.

Finesse = better than force when trying to save the panel material.
 
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abbey castro

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LED bulbs and Vacuum Gauge.
ClusterLEDs (1).jpg
LED
 
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Texas82GP

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I kinda sorta fvck3d up pretty bad at my first race event of the season.

View attachment 174545

The Red Bull box covers 1 bit of my indiscretion.


View attachment 174546

It looks like I pushed the front of the car over, I'll know more when I yank that fender. Rear quarter got some too.

View attachment 174559

This takes me outside of my comfort zone. I'm not looking forward to dealing with it. My first thought is get a stud gun and pull the leading edge forward. Over the winter I could cut the majority of the panel out, flange a replacent, and zap it in. Again, well outside my comfort zone.
Damn. Sorry to see your car banged up like that at the beginning of the season. I think you need a donor skin. Flange it in there. Very strong. Good luck with the repair. Glad to hear about the positive progress on the brakes!
 
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fleming442

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Damn. Sorry to see your car banged up like that at the beginning of the season. I think you need a donor skin. Flange it in there. Very strong. Good luck with the repair. Glad to hear about the positive progress on the brakes!
Borderline structural, and not aero affected = SEND IT!
 
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Supercharged111

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Damn. Sorry to see your car banged up like that at the beginning of the season. I think you need a donor skin. Flange it in there. Very strong. Good luck with the repair. Glad to hear about the positive progress on the brakes!

I have black quarters on the wall and red quarters attached to a donor shell so I'm not exactly caught with my pants down here. I think a trip to the frame rack this winter is prudent.

Borderline structural, and not aero affected = SEND IT!

Send is definitely the approach when the season is underway. My intent is something just half-assed enough to get me by until winter when I can perform a slightly less halfassed repair that at least makes it look halfway straight. Likely will involve rattle can base/clear from a real paint shop and the clear would be the 2 part type.
 
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ck80

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Send is definitely the approach when the season is underway. My intent is something just half-assed enough to get me by until winter when I can perform a slightly less halfassed repair that at least makes it look halfway straight. Likely will involve rattle can base/clear from a real paint shop and the clear would be the 2 part type.
Half assed you say? Why not crimp a lip onto the edge of a piece of aluminum flashing, then use a good adhesive to glue it on? Thin enough to bend to the original contours of the surrounding metal, strong enough not to wind deform, can place a couple rivets inside the door jamb for added security, and will very quick and easy fix. Just a little glazing/spot putty at the edge to blend to original quarter.
 

Supercharged111

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Chain it strategically to a stump, then back up.

Been thinking about chaining it to nothing, locking a truck in 4lo, and seeing about moving the front end back over.

Half assed you say? Why not crimp a lip onto the edge of a piece of aluminum flashing, then use a good adhesive to glue it on? Thin enough to bend to the original contours of the surrounding metal, strong enough not to wind deform, can place a couple rivets inside the door jamb for added security, and will very quick and easy fix. Just a little glazing/spot putty at the edge to blend to original quarter.

You bring up a good point in that the replacement bit may well correct what's left of the car.
 
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