8.8 swaps - who's done them
- Thread starter Tomeal
- Start date
There alot of options. A street driven car works well with a clutch style posi. Eaton or Yukon have treated me well.
Quick's Performance is where I get all of that stuff. If you ask them for other options, then they'll have them.
If where still talking 8.8 the factory trac-lok with the carbon clutches works really well. Never had an issue on any of my previous mustangs. I personally know a few 650-700 hp mustangs that run them. The one I’m getting is from a 2014 that was 750whp from a VMP blown coyote.
I'd go TruTrac if its big power with a sticky tire at the track.
Clutch posi are fine for turbo and foot brake but the shock load from a trans brake or clutch dump hammers the case really hard. All the power has to go through the center pin & spiders on a clutch posi and it shattered mine.
I split the spiders and cracked the case with a Yukon clutch posi in my t56 car.
Clutch posi are fine for turbo and foot brake but the shock load from a trans brake or clutch dump hammers the case really hard. All the power has to go through the center pin & spiders on a clutch posi and it shattered mine.
I split the spiders and cracked the case with a Yukon clutch posi in my t56 car.
But you're damn talented, so this might not apply
I agree with DSPbuilt for a street car at a mild level. The Trac lok works, especially if an extra clutch and steel is inserted. You damn stick guys though, geesh, you're hard on an *ss, I mean rear
That's an OEM Trak Lok. Excellent for the street and for the track until you get with silly power. Do yourself a favor and pull out the clutches and see what's what.
Pull out the chunk (carrier/ring gear assembly) and remove the ring gear - plan on putting in new ring gear bolts, but they are cheap. Then pull out the 'S' spring , pull out the side gears and then the clutches. Also a good time to see what carrier bearings look like. If the carrier bearings are sh*t, then you should plan on a full bearing kit. But if they are fine then the pinion inner and outer bearings will most definitely be fine as well. The carrier bearings generally get in poor condition before the pinion bearings do.
Or......................you can say the heck will of all that and just run it. If it one wheel peels, then you'll know you need clutches. It really depends on how you intend to use it and how anal retentive you are about having everything perfect. For 300-500 crank HP it's most likely going to be fine.
I can't speak to Mustang rears, but Exploders' had a recall about chattering that was caused by excessive wear on the clutches. The warranty repair was put in an additional container of limited slip modifier. Most of the time that resolved the chatter. But if yours has been 'chattering' for a bit, then the clutches and steels will be whipped. No way to tell that without either pulling it apart or running it.
If you intend to maintain street driver status, then run it and see what happens with the idea that C-clips differentials can be removed in an hour. But if you plan to put the wood to this thing with a sticky tire regularly, then pull it apart.
I using the L96 in it's stock form as pulled. This think will only be street driven. Sure a couple smokey burnouts once it's finished is in order. I'm not going to take it to a track. Some fun between red lights, sure.
Picked up some crown Vic rims to use for the short term just so this thing can see the road some day.
I'm going to run as is. See how it is. If I decide to change the axles out, I'll dig into it then. Unless something makes me do it sooner. It will get parked every winter in my garage. I can tackle projects like that then.
Picked up some crown Vic rims to use for the short term just so this thing can see the road some day.
I'm going to run as is. See how it is. If I decide to change the axles out, I'll dig into it then. Unless something makes me do it sooner. It will get parked every winter in my garage. I can tackle projects like that then.
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