Manual linkage install help

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bonnewagon

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
10,536
14,217
113
Queens, NY
When the pedal is released, how much gap is right?
All the gap you can get is just right. I use lots of springs to get the throwout bearing absolutely NOT touching the clutch pressure plate fingers. As you said, touching that ruins it. So I have a spring between the clutch fork and the lower Z-bar paralleling the lower push rod [there is a hole in the fork for a spring] .That keeps the push rod tight to the clutch fork. Then I have another spring between the clutch fork and and a stud [I use an exhaust head pipe bolt] to pull the clutch fork away from the pressure plate. The fork pivots on the bell housing ball stud and that spring on the fork holds it in place. Lastly I have a spring that grabs the clutch pedal hanger and goes to a spot up under the dash. That retracts the pedal away from the firewall. As you can see I have springs keeping everything tight, no slop, and the pedal retracted up all the way. By doing that I can get an inch of pedal free play while knowing that the throwout bearing is nowhere near the pressure plate fingers. Remember that due to the clutch linkage geometry, inches at the pedal equals millimeters at the clutch.
 
  • Useful
Reactions: 1 user

Baker7888

G-Body Guru
Dec 3, 2021
665
115
43
Maine
The dimple the screwdriver is pointing to is the upper retainer/screw position. The other one is one for the hole. Some how they forgot to press the lower retainer/screw position.
Thanks pagrunt

So drill a 2” hole in the dimple that the Red arrow is pointing to?
 

Attachments

  • 7B9E61FE-0E41-49AA-A43C-8CFCDCB85814.jpeg
    7B9E61FE-0E41-49AA-A43C-8CFCDCB85814.jpeg
    591.4 KB · Views: 81

Baker7888

G-Body Guru
Dec 3, 2021
665
115
43
Maine
Guys, which one is the correct fork?
 

Attachments

  • 2CFC92B2-536D-4D28-B6F0-27D5E0CEA97C.jpeg
    2CFC92B2-536D-4D28-B6F0-27D5E0CEA97C.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 75

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,981
18,676
113
Spring, Texas
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,981
18,676
113
Spring, Texas
  • Like
  • Agree
Reactions: 4 users

ELCAM

Royal Smart Person
Jun 19, 2021
1,114
1,247
113
Top one is early G body GM # 462607 there is a late one GM # 14007356 that is very similar the curve is a little different. No idea what the bottom one is.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Baker7888

G-Body Guru
Dec 3, 2021
665
115
43
Maine
That OER one is for a F body. For the longest time places tried to pass it off as being for our cars. Dixie has the right one, thats where I got mine from.
My boot from Dixie just arrived today. I waited for it before drilling. It’s about 2” exactly (hole is oblong) so if I drill a 2” hole the boot may not cover. Is 1.5” (on center of arrowed dimple) sufficient for the linkage?
 

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,122
15,255
113
Elderton, Pa
My boot from Dixie just arrived today. I waited for it before drilling. It’s about 2” exactly (hole is oblong) so if I drill a 2” hole the boot may not cover. Is 1.5” (on center of arrowed dimple) sufficient for the linkage?
It should be. But if needed you could in small steps open it up to ensure that the boot covers & the upper rod will have the needed clearance. I'ts been about 23 years since I did mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor