'83 turbo 4.8 Monte

[64nailhead]

Regarding turbos, run what you bring and go from there. An EBay GT45 will have much different characteristics than a 7875 , S366 or small T6 frame like an S475. You have to decide how you want it to run and how responsive you want it to feel. You’ll spend more on a converter than on a turbo, but no turbo swap will make a crappy converter any better.

An S366 or 7875 is hard to beat for a street car that might see the track some.

 

[Northernregal]

Regarding turbos, run what you bring and go from there. An EBay GT45 will have much different characteristics than a 7875 , S366 or small T6 frame like an S475. You have to decide how you want it to run and how responsive you want it to feel. You’ll spend more on a converter than on a turbo, but no turbo swap will make a crappy converter any better.

An S366 or 7875 is hard to beat for a street car that might see the track some.

Cast gen 2 VS 7875.

Pretty cheap for a 800hp turbo...

VSR Next Gen 7875 Cast

turbo4less.com

 

[mclellan83]

I've been wanting to pull the trigger on the billet setup for the Blazer

 

[Cobbelstone]

So I kinda forgot I started a thread on my build 🤪 plus I had to go to Texas and work. But I've been busting my rear on this car and I got it started up today. PSA for anyone who has symptoms of VATS not being disabled(start up and die), after messing with it all day today it started running randomly. When I unhooked the battery it started acting like the vats was enabled again. Running speed density(3 bar), I kept looking over my tune to make sure I failed the maf. I realized that it wasn't failing fast enough for it to start referencing the map sensor and would just die. I went in and put 8 g/s in every cell of the maf table. Fixed my issue.

 

[Cobbelstone]

Okay so working out all the tedious the stuff past two days. So I picked up an iat sensor from a wrangler a few months back because its threaded and a 5v reference. I cut the threads on it and threaded into the intake. Any reason why the jeep 5v sensor shouldn't work?
*Messed up the one I have so gotta go back to the salvage and get another 🙄

 

[Cobbelstone]

Been a while but here's an update on the car. It runs and drives, but have small kinks here and there. Have to finish wiring in my electric fans and deciding on a place for my IAT and I can start tuning. What little I've driven it goes to around 0 degrees advance once it goes into positive manifold pressure. Also she's on corn liquor now

 

[Cobbelstone]

PSA to anyone looking at the cheaper intake tubing to use to make your own. It really does not weld good at all, even cleaned it seemed full of impurities

 

[64nailhead]

Looks good and glad to see you pop back in.

Put you're IAT in the pipe in front of the TB. It won't get heat soaked there and will be very accurate. In the intake is good only once you're into the throttle and moving some air (get rid of the heat soak).

You're upper radiator hose is a little complicated. I'll guess that you did that deal with the cap in the middle of it for the de-areation line. It's much easier to run the de-areation line to the top of the water pump after you drill tap it for a fitting of course. To help speed up filling the cooling system and bleeding air out of the cooling system I've found drilling a couple of 1/8" holes in the thermostat really speeds up the process when re-filling the system.


0 degrees in boost? Be careful at a number that low with real engine load - you'll be melting something. It's fine for some initial testing, but dang, don't want to make a pull with that timing setting. Have you confirmed timing manually?

 

[Cobbelstone]

Looks good and glad to see you pop back in.

Put you're IAT in the pipe in front of the TB. It won't get heat soaked there and will be very accurate. In the intake is good only once you're into the throttle and moving some air (get rid of the heat soak).

You're upper radiator hose is a little complicated. I'll guess that you did that deal with the cap in the middle of it for the de-areation line. It's much easier to run the de-areation line to the top of the water pump after you drill tap it for a fitting of course. To help speed up filling the cooling system and bleeding air out of the cooling system I've found drilling a couple of 1/8" holes in the thermostat really speeds up the process when re-filling the system.


0 degrees in boost? Be careful at a number that low with real engine load - you'll be melting something. It's fine for some initial testing, but dang, don't want to make a pull with that timing setting. Have you confirmed timing manually?

The upper radiator hose was already laying around from a turbo truck someone else built that I had done a cam/springs swap for a buddy. It does make it easier to fill up though imo.

The timing deal was worrying me too, thought the motor was hurt. Had some white sludge in the pcv line and on the dipstick. Found it was condensation from short run time. Got some logging time last night and torque management was the culprit along with burst knock for sharp timing drop going into boost. How would you go about checking these motors manually?

 

[Cobbelstone]

So I need some insight from you guys. I'm contemplating whether I should put the 8.8 rear that I have in this car with the southside swap kit, or put together a 9" for it. Anyone with experience have trouble adjusting IC with the 8.8 swap kit and will the 31 spline stock rear hold up to hard hits repeatedly.
And if I go 9" is it worth while to just do a non triangulated 4 link setup? Adjustable control arms for the g body are around the same price as a 4 link kit. But then I shouldn't have to run an anti-roll bar if I'm thinking correctly. Any insight would be appreciated.