My Dodge Truck Project (Cummins Inside)

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Nov 4, 2012
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Sent an oil analysis kit to Blackstone Labs a few weeks ago. I forgot all about it until they sent me the results today. Looks to be pretty good, nothing indicating internal coolant leakage or bad injectors. Normal wear metal levels. Silicon is high so I'll check the intake and make sure it is sealed up as they suggest.
Screenshot_20220818-180830_Drive~3.jpg
 
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Just gonna leave this here-

 
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Tackled another project on the Dodge today- power steering gearbox. Pay attention because there is some G Body stuff in this installment.

My gearbox has been leaking since I've owned the truck and it has become more noticeable now that the timing cover isn't leaking anymore. The gearbox is still fairly tight though. I didn't want to shell out the money for a RedHead gear box or risk getting a sloppy reman from the parts store so I bought a seal kit for the one I have. This is a Saginaw steering gear, same design as the ones in G Bodies and a ton of other GM cars so anything here pertaining to the gear box itself will translate to the G Body steering gears.

Off the truck, you can see how greasy it is-
20220826_115902.jpg

After some degreaser and scrubbing it's looking a little better-
20220826_130153.jpg

Got it in the vise and replaced the input shaft seals and the pitman shaft seals. I bought the full rebuild seal kit, it was only ~$20 at Autozone but I'm only going as far as the outer seals. You can rebuild these things but it's a PITA and not worth it IMO. If there is slop in the gears, buy a RedHead box (I've heard Blue Top is good as well). The outer seals are easy to change and if you don't want to shell out the cash for a good quality remanufactured box or gamble with a junk parts store reman, it's worth doing.
20220826_131704.jpg
20220826_131722.jpg

While I was removing the gearbox, I noticed how stiff the steering shaft was. It wouldn't slide at all. Turned out to be completely rusted stuck and the rag joint at the end was really destroyed from all the oil soaking into it, so I went to the parts store and bought a new Dorman one. Seems to be okay quality, fit and finish are nice.
20220826_162017.jpg

There was a lot of gunk inside the gearbox that I tried to rinse out but I didn't get everything, so I installed one of these power steering filters just to be safe. I did flush out the box by filling the reservoir and starting the truck with the return hose disconnected and going to a drain pan (or so I thought... see the last photo) so that should've rinsed out the worst of it but the filter will help me sleep at night.
20220826_184022.jpg

As with several other jobs on the Exxon Valdodge, there was a moderate amount of spillage-
20220826_180636.jpg

Par for the course I suppose, although my driveway is one oil change away from meeting the criteria for a Superfund site.

I have a few more steering related items I will be addressing, pending parts arrival.
 
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ck80

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Tackled another project on the Dodge today- power steering gearbox. Pay attention because there is some G Body stuff in this installment.

My gearbox has been leaking since I've owned the truck and it has become more noticeable now that the timing cover isn't leaking anymore. The gearbox is still fairly tight though. I didn't want to shell out the money for a RedHead gear box or risk getting a sloppy reman from the parts store so I bought a seal kit for the one I have. This is a Saginaw steering gear, same design as the ones in G Bodies and a ton of other GM cars so anything here pertaining to the gear box itself will translate to the G Body steering gears.

Off the truck, you can see how greasy it is-
View attachment 205632
After some degreaser and scrubbing it's looking a little better-
View attachment 205633
Got it in the vise and replaced the input shaft seals and the pitman shaft seals. I bought the full rebuild seal kit, it was only ~$20 at Autozone but I'm only going as far as the outer seals. You can rebuild these things but it's a PITA and not worth it IMO. If there is slop in the gears, buy a RedHead box (I've heard Blue Top is good as well). The outer seals are easy to change and if you don't want to shell out the cash for a good quality remanufactured box or gamble with a junk parts store reman, it's worth doing.
View attachment 205631 View attachment 205630
While I was removing the gearbox, I noticed how stiff the steering shaft was. It wouldn't slide at all. Turned out to be completely rusted stuck and the rag joint at the end was really destroyed from all the oil soaking into it, so I went to the parts store and bought a new Dorman one. Seems to be okay quality, fit and finish are nice.
View attachment 205636
There was a lot of gunk inside the gearbox that I tried to rinse out but I didn't get everything, so I installed one of these power steering filters just to be safe. I did flush out the box by filling the reservoir and starting the truck with the return hose disconnected and going to a drain pan (or so I thought... see the last photo) so that should've rinsed out the worst of it but the filter will help me sleep at night.
View attachment 205635
As with several other jobs on the Exxon Valdodge, there was a moderate amount of spillage-
View attachment 205634
Par for the course I suppose, although my driveway is one oil change away from meeting the criteria for a Superfund site.

I have a few more steering related items I will be addressing, pending parts arrival.
But come winter you can just toss a match instead of plowing
 
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Ugly1

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Oct 26, 2021
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Tackled another project on the Dodge today- power steering gearbox. Pay attention because there is some G Body stuff in this installment.

My gearbox has been leaking since I've owned the truck and it has become more noticeable now that the timing cover isn't leaking anymore. The gearbox is still fairly tight though. I didn't want to shell out the money for a RedHead gear box or risk getting a sloppy reman from the parts store so I bought a seal kit for the one I have. This is a Saginaw steering gear, same design as the ones in G Bodies and a ton of other GM cars so anything here pertaining to the gear box itself will translate to the G Body steering gears.

Off the truck, you can see how greasy it is-
View attachment 205632
After some degreaser and scrubbing it's looking a little better-
View attachment 205633
Got it in the vise and replaced the input shaft seals and the pitman shaft seals. I bought the full rebuild seal kit, it was only ~$20 at Autozone but I'm only going as far as the outer seals. You can rebuild these things but it's a PITA and not worth it IMO. If there is slop in the gears, buy a RedHead box (I've heard Blue Top is good as well). The outer seals are easy to change and if you don't want to shell out the cash for a good quality remanufactured box or gamble with a junk parts store reman, it's worth doing.
View attachment 205631 View attachment 205630
While I was removing the gearbox, I noticed how stiff the steering shaft was. It wouldn't slide at all. Turned out to be completely rusted stuck and the rag joint at the end was really destroyed from all the oil soaking into it, so I went to the parts store and bought a new Dorman one. Seems to be okay quality, fit and finish are nice.
View attachment 205636
There was a lot of gunk inside the gearbox that I tried to rinse out but I didn't get everything, so I installed one of these power steering filters just to be safe. I did flush out the box by filling the reservoir and starting the truck with the return hose disconnected and going to a drain pan (or so I thought... see the last photo) so that should've rinsed out the worst of it but the filter will help me sleep at night.
View attachment 205635
As with several other jobs on the Exxon Valdodge, there was a moderate amount of spillage-
View attachment 205634
Par for the course I suppose, although my driveway is one oil change away from meeting the criteria for a Superfund site.

I have a few more steering related items I will be addressing, pending parts arrival.
Driveway sealing and look no more mess! Did a RockAuto steering shaft deal on mine. Not the best way to find out they make a difference between 2WD & 4x4. Glad you didn’t have that happen.
 
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I saw this truck cap (or camper shell or canopy or whatever we've decided to call them) on marketplace last week and had a hard time resisting the $100 price tag. The seller had 3 guys there to help lift it on which was awesome. It is older so it isn't perfect but the paint is nice, there's no cracks in it and all the windows open and close the way they should. The gas shocks for the rear window are like new. The tag and emblems say it's made by Continental. I've never heard of them but seems to be no different than the Leer I had for my old F-150.
20220828_163511.jpg

20220828_163545.jpg
20220828_163553.jpg

After I got home I loosened the clamps and adjusted it so that it was sitting even and square. I had to adjust the rear window a bit to even up the gaps and get it to open and close nicely. The latch was stuck so I bought a new one at the parts store. I'm not a fan of the exposed exterior screws but we all know it's only there to keep honest people honest. The lock could probably could be picked faster than you could take the screws out. Anyway it latches and unlatches properly now.
20220901_150501.jpg

It didn't have a 3rd brake light so I ordered one from fleabay. I got it wired up but I don't have one of the controller-dongle-things to prevent it from flashing with the turn signals so for now it flashes with the left turn signal. The dome light was already in it. It has it's own switch so for now I tapped it into the parking lights. Eventually I might feed constant power to it and add a prop switch so that it turns on when the rear window is opened.
20220901_150752.jpg
20220901_150602.jpg

I like the subtle grandpa look that the cap and running boards combination gives off.
 
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ck80

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I saw this truck cap (or camper shell or canopy or whatever we've decided to call them) on marketplace last week and had a hard time resisting the $100 price tag. The seller had 3 guys there to help lift it on which was awesome. It is older so it isn't perfect but the paint is nice, there's no cracks in it and all the windows open and close the way they should. The gas shocks for the rear window are like new. The tag and emblems say it's made by Continental. I've never heard of them but seems to be no different than the Leer I had for my old F-150.
View attachment 206027
View attachment 206028 View attachment 206029
After I got home I loosened the clamps and adjusted it so that it was sitting even and square. I had to adjust the rear window a bit to even up the gaps and get it to open and close nicely. The latch was stuck so I bought a new one at the parts store. I'm not a fan of the exposed exterior screws but we all know it's only there to keep honest people honest. The lock could probably could be picked faster than you could take the screws out. Anyway it latches and unlatches properly now.
View attachment 206030
It didn't have a 3rd brake light so I ordered one from fleabay. I got it wired up but I don't have one of the controller-dongle-things to prevent it from flashing with the turn signals so for now it flashes with the left turn signal. The dome light was already in it. It has it's own switch so for now I tapped it into the parking lights. Eventually I might feed constant power to it and add a prop switch so that it turns on when the rear window is opened.
View attachment 206032 View attachment 206033
I like the subtle grandpa look that the cap and running boards combination gives off.
So what's behind the decision to go back to a truck cap again?
 
Nov 4, 2012
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So what's behind the decision to go back to a truck cap again?

Poor impulse control?

I've missed sleeping in the back of a truck and this was the only homebrew solution I could come up with?


I kid, I kid. No real reason in particular. Just a different look. I would've kept the cap that was originally on it if it hadn't been such a piece of crap. It needed more work than it was worth. This was an all fiberglass low top that was already the right color so I decided to grab it just for the sake of having, but I think I'm gonna roll with it for a while.
 
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Tomeal

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Apr 17, 2016
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Clyde,pa
Poor impulse control?

I've missed sleeping in the back of a truck and this was the only homebrew solution I could come up with?


I kid, I kid. No real reason in particular. Just a different look. I would've kept the cap that was originally on it if it hadn't been such a piece of crap. It needed more work than it was worth. This was an all fiberglass low top that was already the right color so I decided to grab it just for the sake of having, but I think I'm gonna roll with it for a while.

You do know that looks like a grandpa cap!
 
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DRIVEN

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Apr 25, 2009
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Brick through the window doesn't care about your new lock.

It looks good on there. That hole in the back corner probably wants a 12' CB antenna. A winch bumper for the front should be on the short list too.

Fun fact; When I was in high-school I worked at Bac-Pac / Six-Pac / Slick-Pac and installed those rear windows for four hours a day.
 
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