Alternator Question

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Metzger82

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Dec 15, 2021
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So I'm in need have help because I don't know a thing about knowing what alternator/amperage is needed for a setup or how to find what is the needed output. My car has a factory 63 amp Delco 10SI alternator and I'm not sure if that will be enough anymore. My car will no longer have the computer or the lockup TH350C but I will be running dual electric fans and a MSD 6A box. If anyone has advice or some insight that would be greatly appreciated.
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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It will be fine. But there is no reason to not upgrade. An 80–100 amp alternator is an insurance policy.

What model car and what is the current engine?
 
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Longroof79

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I've found with the low amp alternators, the heavy draw when you turn the headlights on and have to use your wipers simultaneously, I would absolutely recommend a higher output alternator when using an electric fan setup. Some of the early alternators were inadequate to get a decent charge to your battery.
 
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403Olds

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May 31, 2014
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I used the stock 63 amp one for years with dual fans. You are correct, at idle with headlights on the voltage will drop, and the headlights dim, and the blinkers slow down. Didn't bother me a whole lot, but one winter upgraded to the CS130, it's much better, still drops slightly at idle, but the turn signals don't slow down.

If I remember correctly, the 89 Cadillac had the 307 and the CS130 alternator. The alternator was like $45 and the adapter harness was $20, so a relatively cheap upgrade
 
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Longroof79

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I used the stock 63 amp one for years with dual fans. You are correct, at idle with headlights on the voltage will drop, and the headlights dim, and the blinkers slow down. Didn't bother me a whole lot, but one winter upgraded to the CS130, it's much better, still drops slightly at idle, but the turn signals don't slow down.

If I remember correctly, the 89 Cadillac had the 307 and the CS130 alternator. The alternator was like $45 and the adapter harness was $20, so a relatively cheap upgrade
My original CS 130 alternator came from a junkyard Cadillac. When that one went south, I bought a brand new unit. I think these units are a good bang for the buck.
 
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Metzger82

Greasemonkey
Dec 15, 2021
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My car originally a Olds 260 but I've built a Olds 350 for it, it won't be a daily but during the summer I'll definitely be putting some miles on it with driving to car shows, work and even just going on drives along the river and on special occasions passes down the drag strip.
 
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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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Reference article on alternators described one way of deciding how big to go. The suggestion made was to identify the amperage being drawn by each electrical item in the vehicle and add them all up. Starter, headlights, turn signals, radio/stereo, heater, A/C, everything you can think of. The sum produced by that addition constitutes the minimum value for an alternator capable of supporting everything on the list at once without any drop out or fade or dimming. Then go up a size or two as a precaution/insurance or just in case you end up adding more accessories or heavier components that have a higher draw. That CS130 is good place to be. I have a Power Master Alternator in my S-10 and a Tuff Stuff unit in my Van. Both are quite capable of keeping their respective batteries perfectly happy, even at idle and neither needs to get spun at a high initial rpm to self energize, they both kick in at idle.



Nick
 
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Metzger82

Greasemonkey
Dec 15, 2021
102
95
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NW Ohio
Reference article on alternators described one way of deciding how big to go. The suggestion made was to identify the amperage being drawn by each electrical item in the vehicle and add them all up. Starter, headlights, turn signals, radio/stereo, heater, A/C, everything you can think of. The sum produced by that addition constitutes the minimum value for an alternator capable of supporting everything on the list at once without any drop out or fade or dimming. Then go up a size or two as a precaution/insurance or just in case you end up adding more accessories or heavier components that have a higher draw. That CS130 is good place to be. I have a Power Master Alternator in my S-10 and a Tuff Stuff unit in my Van. Both are quite capable of keeping their respective batteries perfectly happy, even at idle and neither needs to get spun at a high initial rpm to self energize, they both kick in at idle.



Nick
So would the CS130 work with my original 3 bolting points of the brackets of my Olds 350 or would I need different brackets?
 
Oct 14, 2008
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Yes, it should work. Supposedly çame on some 88 Cutlass with the 307. It fit on my 88 just fine with the 307 brackets, just ordered that option. It may be available on later custom cruisers as well.
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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CS144. And since the 10si decided to break in my new ride I am going to explain why.

First alone man is the reliability, this should always be your main concern unless you aren't using this vehicle for long distance driving. In the Canadian winters, it is so helpful because the idle output for amps is large, so it means your vehicle starts every time 😤💪💪💪

Second is the price. I have the speakers going heavy like a motherfučker in the trunk and, since that means I need lots of good old amperage to make that work, compared to a custom & remanufactured 10/12si, which is sometimes priced TWICE of what you can get with one of these.

Third is install. Swap pulleys if thats what it takes, wire the new connector to your old one, or buy one already. Ebay, 10/12SI to CS144 adapter.

Just remember. The ONLY thing you can't do is drive it without an gen light. If you do, get the one that uses a resistor in the adapter.

And if you have one though, get the adapter without it, or make one yourself as I stated above.
0C3D0711-991C-4D9C-9019-1D11D3F477A7.jpeg
 
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