Understood... So have no fear of the hydraulics is the vibe I'm getting. It all looks very neat in your build thread. Thanks for the responses and direction to your build thread.
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Understood... So have no fear of the hydraulics is the vibe I'm getting. It all looks very neat in your build thread. Thanks for the responses and direction to your build thread.
I designed my own pedal and made it all work for stuff you can buy at the parts store. That was the objective. Works perfectly.
In my brother's 78 Z28 we used the production 98-02 F-Body clutch slave/throwout bearing. We used the LS7 clutch. This is for a 6.0 L96 and a T56 Magnum. On the clutch master, we bought a Tilton unit from Tick Performance that is sold as an upgrade for 98-02 F-body cars. It's bullet proof but pretty firm. For the 70-81 F-Body, the clutch master hangs on a bracket, that hangs off the studs that secure the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. You just use a stock 70-81 F Body clutch pedal. It's bullet proof.
That solution doesn't work on the G Body. The trick to making the setup work right in a G Body is mounting the clutch master cylinder. Obviously, it can be done since members on here have done it successfully. The firewall itself is not strong enough. It will flex and eventually crack. If I were doing this, I'd use the production 98-02 F Body clutch master and slave/throwout bearing as advised by others for the reliability. You definately want the speed bleeder. I didn't know about them when we put my brother's car together and I wish it had one. Every two years I flush the hydraulic clutch system and having that speed bleeder would be nice.
Some really disparage the factory F-Body 98-02 clutch master as it is all plastic and has a restriction built in to slow disengagement but I would still probably go that way, with a genuine GM piece for the lighter pedal.
I would avoid aftermarket slave/throwout bearings. I've read about too many problems. With the production stuff, as long as the clutch master is securely mounted in the correct orientation, there is no reason not to expect the reliability the production 98-02 F-body cars enjoyed.
That solution doesn't work on the G Body. The trick to making the setup work right in a G Body is mounting the clutch master cylinder. Obviously, it can be done since members on here have done it successfully. The firewall itself is not strong enough. It will flex and eventually crack. If I were doing this, I'd use the production 98-02 F Body clutch master and slave/throwout bearing as advised by others for the reliability. You definately want the speed bleeder. I didn't know about them when we put my brother's car together and I wish it had one. Every two years I flush the hydraulic clutch system and having that speed bleeder would be nice.
Some really disparage the factory F-Body 98-02 clutch master as it is all plastic and has a restriction built in to slow disengagement but I would still probably go that way, with a genuine GM piece for the lighter pedal.
I would avoid aftermarket slave/throwout bearings. I've read about too many problems. With the production stuff, as long as the clutch master is securely mounted in the correct orientation, there is no reason not to expect the reliability the production 98-02 F-body cars enjoyed.
So that restriction is on the line at the end it goes into the Master. The LS1 Fbodies are the only ones made like that, the V6 cars it was wide open. We drilled them out, this pic one I did back in like 2006
I bought my Master at Orielly's after the factory GM one I had failed. The one they sold me was all steel. I mounted it with the Ubolt and some really big fender washers on the inside. One thing I did do was beat on the fire wall with a hammer to re-shape this are for the proper angle, so maybe I work hardened it. I've not had any issues.
The way to fly when doing a mechanical linkage in a 78-88 is skip the original bent fork. Skip the original bellhousing. And go for 82-83 F-body angled, straight fork like a Lakewood. In a dual-pattern Lakewood 15015, that puts the fork end right where the original would be for the pushrod.
Is that good for clearing DS exhaust on an LS engine? Nope.
The F-body master cylinder on the wall w/F pedals nodded to fit the firewall, top holes lined with top booster studs works well on the G-body. This raises the pedal pads a little, which works for me.
In short, duplicating a stock setup / measurements that work, will get you a setup that works. I have seen some absolutely nutty setups over the years where guys prioritized having mechanical linkage over everything else and got very "creative," but putting mass effort into different designs should have results that work better. And it's really tough to outdesign a lot of OEM stuff.
Whereas I have the parts and the knowhow, I wouldn't bother trying to go mechanical with an LS.
Is that good for clearing DS exhaust on an LS engine? Nope.
The F-body master cylinder on the wall w/F pedals nodded to fit the firewall, top holes lined with top booster studs works well on the G-body. This raises the pedal pads a little, which works for me.
In short, duplicating a stock setup / measurements that work, will get you a setup that works. I have seen some absolutely nutty setups over the years where guys prioritized having mechanical linkage over everything else and got very "creative," but putting mass effort into different designs should have results that work better. And it's really tough to outdesign a lot of OEM stuff.
Whereas I have the parts and the knowhow, I wouldn't bother trying to go mechanical with an LS.
Running an early LQ with mechanical linkage. It required a gen2 F body ball threaded into 1/2" aluminum bar stock bolted into the stud hole on a Corvette bell housing with the block casting "hand milled and threaded" on the other end for the pivot point. I then had to do a fair amount of trimming and fitting the Z bar for clearance from the headers. Still wiring up the electronics so full functionality isn't tested. It was a bit of a pain, but I prefer the analog feedback from a mechanical linkage. Can see about reference pics if you are committed to mechanical.
I'm not necessarily committed. Most of the cars I've owned over the years have had manual transmissions; two were older and used mechanical linkage ('84 fox body, '87 VW fox) and I'm assuming the two newer ('00 S10 and '11 Scion TC) were hydraulic. I'm sure everybody would like to see your handiwork, not just me, so pics please. It seems like a shame if I couldn't get the z-bar to work with the modern engine - you seem to agree. I'm about 90% certain I'd be using cast iron manifolds and not headers. I've been looking at the ratio of the TREMEC six speed and I'm liking the idea of the 0.5 over-overdrive. I put a lot of miles on my '84 MC with 4L60e and 3.55 rear gear - I'm getting 15 MPG running 2500 RPM at 80 MPH on 26" tires and it has me wondering what I need to do in the next car to get that more towards 20 MPG. Many people on here just care about go-fast, but ultimately I want a car that is equivalent to a built not bought Chrysler LX/LD/LA/LC 5.7L hemi car. I want to beat a Charger off the line (already done that with 5.3L/4L60) and get 20 MPG and have A/C. So, I need to work on the fuel mileage in the next car and get the A/C working. LOL. Bucket seats too. I drive the hell out of my 5.3L swapped MC. It is a gas hog with the most tame LM7 cam. I'm going to do a few things differently in the next car.
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My setup is a healthy cammed 6.0l, I built a MN6 T56 from 2001 LS1 Fbody which is the .50 6th gear unit, I have 3.89 gears in the back. 26" tires.
Cruising around I'm close to 20mpg, it does really well.
Cruising around I'm close to 20mpg, it does really well.
It seems like it should do better. My truck has a 5.3 LMG with the GMPP Hot Cam, a 3600-3700 RPM stall speed torque converter, a 4L85E, 4.10 gears and 31" tall tires. It gets 14.3 MPG of mixed driving. It gets 18 MPG at 75 MPH. I think it weighs close to 5000 lbs. I'm surprised your car doesn't do better.
I am surprised too. I have no codes on the ECU and mileage has gone down from initial estimates of ~18 MPG to a repeatable 15 MPG. I do believe the mileage has gotten worse as I've broken it in. I reset the trip accumulator with every tank of gas. People fly around here on I95 and 80 MPH is normal - I get passed by generic looking crossovers by women on the phone. I haven't tried to keep my foot out of it merging and stuff trying to better my 15 MPG because, well I just don't drive like that. I'm pretty sure the gas is a consistent E10 mixture. The drums don't get super hot so I don't think the brakes are dragging. Could it be a lead foot and burnouts? I do hammer it whenever I'm driving by myself.
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