Got the Z06 out for a little drive before some weather comes in. 75° here at the moment.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
Picked it up and brought it home this afternoon.
This thing’s got a really strange options list, it’s got nearly everything you’d get with a Z71 package but it doesn’t have the Z71 option.
I’ve even got the original window sticker for it!
This thing’s got a really strange options list, it’s got nearly everything you’d get with a Z71 package but it doesn’t have the Z71 option.
I’ve even got the original window sticker for it!
It needs a driver’s fender, possibly a hood, and the bed needs wheel arches and potentially both outer wheelhouses.
Probably just going to go hunt for another bed then fix this one on the side. The frame is far cleaner than I expected for a PA truck, and spending its whole life in Delmont on top of that.
I was thinking about a destroked gen IV 6.0 in the future since it’s stuck with a 4.8.
The whole truck got a repaint at some point, but the tailgate looks original. The hood and cab roof though….
So I'm looking at one.... and I think it's a bad idea. Issue: square body branch damage.
Condition:
You can see the side panel had some outwards movement from the downwards force, thus the rusr wrinkle. Shiny drip rail also gone. Door opens and closes, but leaks.
Solution 1: keep looking, I know.
Solution 2: Just cab swap it. I know that one too.
The deal is, I've got a whole truck worth of parts here - fenders, grille, trim, core support, doors, full bed, tailgate, bumper, gas tank, all I need is a usable cab on a hood frame, that runs and drives. He'll, if I had time I've got a parts cab 90% rust free but missing dash and windshield lip, some small patches cut on it thar could be parts and a 94 5.7/4l80e... but all that is extra time.
I'd like to put something together for the wife out of it all while I know I can. That little 4x4 looks appealing aside from the roof...
Condition:
You can see the side panel had some outwards movement from the downwards force, thus the rusr wrinkle. Shiny drip rail also gone. Door opens and closes, but leaks.
Solution 1: keep looking, I know.
Solution 2: Just cab swap it. I know that one too.
The deal is, I've got a whole truck worth of parts here - fenders, grille, trim, core support, doors, full bed, tailgate, bumper, gas tank, all I need is a usable cab on a hood frame, that runs and drives. He'll, if I had time I've got a parts cab 90% rust free but missing dash and windshield lip, some small patches cut on it thar could be parts and a 94 5.7/4l80e... but all that is extra time.
I'd like to put something together for the wife out of it all while I know I can. That little 4x4 looks appealing aside from the roof...
Dug it out of the garage and spent 2.5-3 hours dancing with it in the snow!
Car? Truck?? Oh Hell No, think Snowblower here!! 8 horse Tecumseh single lung driving a 24 inch reel, Think around 20 years old at this point. Absolutely beautiful for those tight line between the truck and the front drive parapet walls. At full song with the discharge set for full loft it can throw as much as 15-20 feet downrange. Have to be careful with ice shrapnel as that stuff is like spitting bullets. The big two stages with the driven discharge screw are flat dangerous to be around for that reason. Little kids and dogs beware. Beyond that lies the realm of the riding tractor and their blower attachments; all kinds of fun for the big kids.
Have not caught an official count on the drop for the last 72 hours but locally it was in the area of 12-20 inches. All the highways were shut down. The hit list for wipeouts looked like a google page for the sheer number of locations of bushed vehicles. Some semi operator up on the 11 route ran his rig off the road and into/through a couple of houses. Are we having fun yet??
Nick
Car? Truck?? Oh Hell No, think Snowblower here!! 8 horse Tecumseh single lung driving a 24 inch reel, Think around 20 years old at this point. Absolutely beautiful for those tight line between the truck and the front drive parapet walls. At full song with the discharge set for full loft it can throw as much as 15-20 feet downrange. Have to be careful with ice shrapnel as that stuff is like spitting bullets. The big two stages with the driven discharge screw are flat dangerous to be around for that reason. Little kids and dogs beware. Beyond that lies the realm of the riding tractor and their blower attachments; all kinds of fun for the big kids.
Have not caught an official count on the drop for the last 72 hours but locally it was in the area of 12-20 inches. All the highways were shut down. The hit list for wipeouts looked like a google page for the sheer number of locations of bushed vehicles. Some semi operator up on the 11 route ran his rig off the road and into/through a couple of houses. Are we having fun yet??
Nick
The 2012 KK Liberty had an EVAP canister about to fall clean off. Here is how I spent my Saturday afternoon. Getting the old bracket out was a nightmare. First I removed the canister from the plastic mount by removing the single bolt that secures it. Then it pivots off. I was lucky enough to get the two frame bolts out after much penetrating oil was applied. Then I had to grind off the bolts that hold the plastic mount to the metal bracket.
Not much left to work with. I grabbed an old street sign and cut a 3" x 15" strip off.
I measured the frame hole placement, drilled holes, and test fitted the strip up onto the frame. Nice fit.
Then I took what was left of the metal bracket and used it to locate the plastic mount holes. There was only one hole available to do that but that was all I needed. After that hole was drilled in the new bracket, I used flat headed stainless steel license plate screws, washers, and nuts, to secure the bracket to the plastic mount. After that I just made two more new holes where I thought they would offer the best support. I screwed those in too using Loktite to secure everything, then ground the excess screw shafts down flush to the nuts. The thin flat headed screw heads I placed on the frame side so they would not interfere with mounting the bracket to the frame. I replaced the canister on to the plastic mount. I swabbed the frame holes with anti-seize, and the bolts, and bolted the bracket to the frame. Perfect. I could not see replacing crap with crap so this should outlast the rest of the body.
Good old NOPAR metal. It starts to rust right at the factory. Street signs are made of Vibranium and I use them to fix aluminum boats.
Not much left to work with. I grabbed an old street sign and cut a 3" x 15" strip off.
I measured the frame hole placement, drilled holes, and test fitted the strip up onto the frame. Nice fit.
Then I took what was left of the metal bracket and used it to locate the plastic mount holes. There was only one hole available to do that but that was all I needed. After that hole was drilled in the new bracket, I used flat headed stainless steel license plate screws, washers, and nuts, to secure the bracket to the plastic mount. After that I just made two more new holes where I thought they would offer the best support. I screwed those in too using Loktite to secure everything, then ground the excess screw shafts down flush to the nuts. The thin flat headed screw heads I placed on the frame side so they would not interfere with mounting the bracket to the frame. I replaced the canister on to the plastic mount. I swabbed the frame holes with anti-seize, and the bolts, and bolted the bracket to the frame. Perfect. I could not see replacing crap with crap so this should outlast the rest of the body.
Good old NOPAR metal. It starts to rust right at the factory. Street signs are made of Vibranium and I use them to fix aluminum boats.
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