Redneck Skunkwerkz

Manuals? WHO NEEDS A STINKING MANUAL! It may or may not be related to your g-body, but here is a section all about YOUR OWN backyard fixes, improvisations, and general self engineering. Only real requirement - you designed or built it YOURSELF.

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So, until I decide to build a build thread....

Its trailer park trailer time!

LH c10.jpg

is slated to become a tow behind trailer. pros: its a cost of time and materials build; it will be heavier duty than anything else you'd buy for even a fraction of the price; it will look cool sitting behind either the square body suburban or pickup trucks; axle will be much heavier duty and not need all the bearing repacks a cheapo utility trailer would; bolt pattern allows use of common spares between trucks and trailer.


Step 1: PREP - lift the bed for reuse, cab will get cut up for patch panels to go into the parts hoards.
Step 2: CHOP - cut the frame just behind the front cab mount perches, then cut and bend the frame, re-weld into an a-style. add a secondary cross member where the bend occurs and have a length of approx 2x2" tube steel run from that cross member forwards, then welding a 2" ball end on to attach to the tow ball.
Step 3: cut scraps of steel from the junk frame sections to lap weld over the butt welded sections as extra reinforcement.
Step 4: splice a 4-pin style connector into the original rear taillight wiring harness loom for the bed
Step 5: add a trailer jack to the area of the new front crossmember, likely a harbor freight special.
Step 6: GA tag office issues an ID number and form for a homemade trailer allowing registration after a police officer inspects and signs off, including on affidavit of materials ownership, ID number being affixed to frame.

Optional steps I am undecided about:

- swap out the existing 12 bolt for a 14bolt sf that is lying around. not sure what benefit that would really give me. Similar question about increasing the rear leaf spring count.
- build a metal box inside front frame rail, then install parking brake pedal and release pull hooked up to parking brake cables. this would give a parking brake for the trailer using existing parts. locking the metal box provides additional anti-theft beyond just an armored lock on the eyehole.
- if choosing not to pursue the parking brake, then removing the shoes/etc so they don't lock up if it sits too long.
- install shorty gas tanks in the factory saddle or rear mount locations with electric transfer pump to increase fuel capacity
- if installing rear mount gas tank, then contemplate adding a spare tire mount well just ahead of headboard on bed.
- choose between a tonneau style over or cap over the trailer bed
Are you going to pull the ring gear off the carrier? I've heard they pull hard unless you make the rear end inop.
81cutlass Hadn't thought about that one yet. Likely I wouldnt pull it to start, give it a whirl, and down the road its easy enough of a change to make if need be. my guess is the depending what you tow with you may not notice the extra drag?
So, progress has been happening. on previous days I hauled two rolling chassis to an overflow shop so we could do something with the piles of junk and projects around. One has been stripped down to just a frame/suspension plus bed. The other is a frame/suspension/gastank/cab. I figure we'll try making a trailer from one, and, if something goes wrong we've got the other. kinda like a practice run.

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