Redneck Skunkwerkz

Manuals? WHO NEEDS A STINKING MANUAL! It may or may not be related to your g-body, but here is a section all about YOUR OWN backyard fixes, improvisations, and general self engineering. Only real requirement - you designed or built it YOURSELF.

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C
So, until I decide to build a build thread....

Its trailer park trailer time!

This:
LH c10.jpg



is slated to become a tow behind trailer. pros: its a cost of time and materials build; it will be heavier duty than anything else you'd buy for even a fraction of the price; it will look cool sitting behind either the square body suburban or pickup trucks; axle will be much heavier duty and not need all the bearing repacks a cheapo utility trailer would; bolt pattern allows use of common spares between trucks and trailer.

Plans:

Step 1: PREP - lift the bed for reuse, cab will get cut up for patch panels to go into the parts hoards.
Step 2: CHOP - cut the frame just behind the front cab mount perches, then cut and bend the frame, re-weld into an a-style. add a secondary cross member where the bend occurs and have a length of approx 2x2" tube steel run from that cross member forwards, then welding a 2" ball end on to attach to the tow ball.
Step 3: cut scraps of steel from the junk frame sections to lap weld over the butt welded sections as extra reinforcement.
Step 4: splice a 4-pin style connector into the original rear taillight wiring harness loom for the bed
Step 5: add a trailer jack to the area of the new front crossmember, likely a harbor freight special.
Step 6: GA tag office issues an ID number and form for a homemade trailer allowing registration after a police officer inspects and signs off, including on affidavit of materials ownership, ID number being affixed to frame.

Optional steps I am undecided about:

- swap out the existing 12 bolt for a 14bolt sf that is lying around. not sure what benefit that would really give me. Similar question about increasing the rear leaf spring count.
- build a metal box inside front frame rail, then install parking brake pedal and release pull hooked up to parking brake cables. this would give a parking brake for the trailer using existing parts. locking the metal box provides additional anti-theft beyond just an armored lock on the eyehole.
- if choosing not to pursue the parking brake, then removing the shoes/etc so they don't lock up if it sits too long.
- install shorty gas tanks in the factory saddle or rear mount locations with electric transfer pump to increase fuel capacity
- if installing rear mount gas tank, then contemplate adding a spare tire mount well just ahead of headboard on bed.
- choose between a tonneau style over or cap over the trailer bed
8
81cutlass
Are you going to pull the ring gear off the carrier? I've heard they pull hard unless you make the rear end inop.
C
ck80
81cutlass Hadn't thought about that one yet. Likely I wouldnt pull it to start, give it a whirl, and down the road its easy enough of a change to make if need be. my guess is the depending what you tow with you may not notice the extra drag?
C
ck80
So, progress has been happening. on previous days I hauled two rolling chassis to an overflow shop so we could do something with the piles of junk and projects around. One has been stripped down to just a frame/suspension plus bed. The other is a frame/suspension/gastank/cab. I figure we'll try making a trailer from one, and, if something goes wrong we've got the other. kinda like a practice run.

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