Could be, but the air moving thru the tubes isn't staying there long enough to soak up any heat. I've had a few instances where I've opened it up in town and almost sucked in a couple of small dogs in the screen.
Welded 3" exhaust pipes to the back of the headlight buckets, then to a dual snorkel air cleaner. Never did any back to back runs, but I'm sure it's at least 0.0001 faster in the quarter. I can tell it when the weather is below 50, the engine runs a little colder..
Got the tires in and mounted this week, finally had a decent day to get the car out. Really liking the way it looks. The Year One center caps aren't the best, they have plastic fingers that hold them in two went in difficult, and one actually broke one of the fingers. The other two kind of...
Wow, I've had these rims a year, never could find anyone that would paint them. Had a guy that wrapped the spokes. Just ordered tires. Excited to get them on this spring and see if I need to trim the front springs a little.
On my wife's GP with a 305 and 200R4, I went with a 3.42. Definitely helped with the light to light feel of it, and doesn't get too bad on the 70 mph interstates, somewhere around 2400 rpm, where my Cutlass at 70 and a 3.73 is pushing 3000 rpm.
yes, I lined up the switch with the hole for the upper tail light. I've not cut a hole in the tail light for the handle, but it's ready if I'm ever ready.
Here's how I mounted it. As other's stated, you will need a 4 post disconnect switch to cut the alternator power along with the battery power. The solenoid wire is already fused, I did put a fuse on the alternator wire. This way there's a minimal risk of any issues.
I ran #10 for the solenoid, and #8 for the alternator. This ran from a positive terminal block that I added under the engine compartment for the cab power, fan and headlight relays.
Just my $.02, I remote mounted a F0rd starter solenoid to the trunk, so that the large wire was only hot when cranking. Had to extend the starter solenoid wire and added a fused charging wire from the alternator to the solenoid. Mines a street car, so I thought that this was safer. wires run...
I like to solder them, but yes, they are subject to brittleness and vibration failure. One thing I do on either connector is to use the marine heatshrink. That has the sealer on the inside and helps to protect the connection from moisture.
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