Recent content by jimsmonte80

When doing caster readings, you are measuring the camber angle at 20 degrees in, then twenty degrees out. This is a total of 40 degrees from right to left on the driver side tire. So turn the wheel in 20 degrees, zero your camber angle gauge. Turn your wheel 20 degrees out, measure your camber...

When doing a caster reading, the wheel is turned in 20 degrees and the camber gauge is zeroed. Then the wheel is turned out 20 degrees (total of 40 degrees) and the camber reading is recorded. The recorded reading is then multiplied by 1.5 to for the caster reading. However, if the wheel angle...

Yes, thank you! These universal joints from jeeps are from a vehicle with a uni-body construction. Years ago my rag joint was shot, the jeep conversion seemed like a decent option with e decent price. At the time, the OEM rag joint intermediate shafts where going for $200. As long as the jeep...

The column shaft will collapse in an accident. This is the jeep shaft from an 84-94 Jeep Cherokee? Where the to halves slide together and telescope, I have some play. You can almost jiggle it. Curious if yours feels that way or I just have a worn out shaft. Also, I believe these shafts have two...

I mean, is the rag joint really that bad? I will admit, I got on the "delete rag joint" band wagon. But the one I had was really bad. But would a brand new rag joint steering shaft be that bad?

I would have to disagree with you on the telescoping feature. We are not talking about a lot of movement, but the body sits on body mounts that rests on the frame. Now does this amount of movement translate to excessive movement? Probably not much (few thousanths), but your steering box may not...

Ready for this age old topic? Currently, I have a steering shaft from the 84 to 94 Jeep Cherokee installed on my 80 Monte Carlo. I am not really too happy with it, as it has some sloppy play where it telescopes. From what I been reading, the 95 to 98 Jeep Cherokee is a better option, as it will...

Yep, this thread got way off topic. Anyway, from what I learned, seems like the two tanks out there are Dorman and Spectra. Maybe a third, depending what OPGI uses as a supplier. But all these standard tanks for non-LS swap engines, all range from $110 to $150. I did have a spectra fuel tank...

I do like that galvanized look, very sleek. I wish I knew if OPGI had a good quality fuel tank. Like I mentioned, not looking for OEM, but OPGI normally has pretty good quality items. I wish I had more testimonial from OPGI fuel tank owners.

I would think the galvanized/Ni Terne coating is better than being painted. Galvanized coating won't chip away like paint. Just not sure if the galvanizing is coated in the inside as well.

Spectra was just a little bit more in price, but I think you helped sell me on it.

You seemed to be happy with your spectra fuel cell. My understanding that these are galvanized versus painted like the Dorman tanks are.

How is the finish of the spectra tank? Inside and out?

My replacement tank does not need to be NOS. I was just leaning towards OPGI because of their quality. But I did look at the Dorman tank from Amazon for only $111.00. I guess that's why I am leading towards that one from Dorman. Just looking for something that will last from moisture.

Purchased a fuel tank from Quanta many years ago. Seemed like a nice tank with a Ni-terne coating. I had just removed the tank due to rust (rust on the inside roof and inside seams). The rust floating around even destroyed the sending unit. Anyways, looking for a good replacement. Many places...