Recent content by Pronto-

What a mess those wires were. Now you can go back to the NGK plugs. They are WAY better than Delcos.

Any know the Center to Center bolt spacing on the Lift bars?

I don't have slicks but drag radials on 100% of the time. I use tire shine that I apply with a tire shine applicator sponge that is contoured. I put it on the sponge and am able to control where is goes. I've never had an issue with that. Obviously I don't use is when going to the track.

That oil vapor has moisture in it that will in turn contaminate the oil that collects in the can. You do not want that going back into the engine. Bad mojo.

A couple of years ago I bought a set of tools from Lowes made by Kobalt for my mobile set. It's a very nice kit with a handy box to hold everything in place. Done many jobs from engine removal to trans and everything in between. The ratchets work fine and show no signs of failing. Harbor Freight...

Good thing you looked. Something else to consider, my t came with an open diff. We put in an Eaton. Sucker is tight as a virgin. Without drag radials it will squeak the tire on a tight turn in a parking lot. Never fails to leave equal stripes. One of those will not fail in your car. Seen them go...

Assuming the builder used high zinc assembly lube (which all good builders do), we use a cheap 30 wt dino oil. Run for about half an hour for break in, fluid checks and leak inspections. Dump the oil and change the filter, get rid of the assembly lube and crud. Use high zinc dino oil. We like...

NGK UR45 and I would gap them at .045, not .060. I run NGKs and all my buddies URs. This is from totally stock to 9.00 cars 3.8 cars. Don't run copper or iridium. Not good for the 3.8. Forget gas additives. Change the gas filter and sparkplugs, wires and distributor cap/rotor, and hei coil...

Been there done that. Mine blew while I was driving and shot oil all over my shoe. The only way I would use mechanical gauges is with AN line and fittings.

Throw them in the trash and use early 350 heads.

Depends on the mods. High stall needs a big auxillary cooler. I'ld run the lines to the radiator then to an aux cooler and be done either way unless you drive the car in cold weather. In that case add a bypass that doesn't use the aux cooler until the temps are hot enough.

I use K&P Engineering billet filter. Easily cleaned and you can inspect the filter to see what's going on. No bypass to send dirty oil through the engine.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_265_266&products_id=5820

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_33_34&products_id=2047

It's super important to have a proper radiator boxing in so air is flowed right at the radiator. On the Buicks they have a flexible rubbery material the closes it all off so air if funneled to the radiator. I don't know on a Cutlass how they did it but the Buick kit is still available and it's...