Shaved door handles...again

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FE3X CLONE

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 2, 2009
2,714
47
48
Ohio
Okay, I'm sure this has come up before but I could only find a few threads on it.

I have my doors shaved and my solenoids installed. That part is working fine. My question is with the door poppers themselves.

What is everyone using? Brand and placement?

I have a pair of poppers from Dakota Digital (they are just rebranded) that have a spring loaded plunger. I wanted to install them in the door jamb up by the door hinges but after drilling and installing one on the driver's side I've found it doesn't open any better than it did without them.
I think they would probably work better at the rear of the door but don't know for sure. At this point I don't want to just start drilling holes everywhere in the car in the hopes that I can get these to work.

I've also seen some out there that look to be something like a valve spring that is welded to a base plate. These appear to be designed to go at the front, hinge side of the door. This is really where I would like to keep everything because it would look cleaner.

As it stands now the door solenoids will unlatch the door to the first notch in the catch but then you have to hit them again and pull on the door to get it to open the rest of the way.

If you have pictures of your setup that would be great!

Thanks,
 

Alex41

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 12, 2013
26
2
3
Hendersonville TN
I purchased my car with the handles already shaved so I don't have too much experience in this, but from what I can see the seatbelt retractor is doing the job of popping the door out just fine. It has been this way for the last 20 years so I say it's a pretty decent set up. :wink: I hope that is what you were looking for here. Alex.
 

FE3X CLONE

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 2, 2009
2,714
47
48
Ohio
You know it's funny but when I was doing my research there were people on other forums talking about how they found factory door poppers on '80's model Cutlass's, etc. What they were describing were the seat belt retractors but I don't think they knew that.

I didn't put much stock in what they were saying but if thats actually been working I may have to reinstall mine and give it a try.

Thanks,
 

jlcustomz

G-Body Guru
Nov 22, 2011
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Haven't installed mine yet, but I,m a residential & commercial door installer by trade. As far as spring mount location , think about the torque difference between front & rear. The spring has no torque near the hinges & would have to be super stiff to do anything,------ like near valve spring tension.. The supplied kit spring up front is like squishing a bug. :rofl:
The spring mounted at the rear is in an area that would have over 4 feet of torque leverage on the hinges. This is ok with the supplied spring.
That explains the mechanics of it, your choice on which way to go. :mrgreen:You just need enough pressure for the door to move past the latch, in some cases weather strip pressure is enough.
 

skulledmonte84

Master Mechanic
Feb 7, 2014
426
6
18
near Clearfield pa

Jakefromstatefarm

Master Mechanic
Feb 26, 2014
465
923
93
I bought the springs to install in the door jams when putting my poppers in, but never did. The biggest factor of how well the door pops is the tension on the cable from the solenoid to the latch. As far as my doors popping out, I just have the factory door jam poppers (the little black plastic ones that pivot to assist the door opening at first when latch releases.
 

Rowshak

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 28, 2015
35
6
8
I bought the springs to install in the door jams when putting my poppers in, but never did. The biggest factor of how well the door pops is the tension on the cable from the solenoid to the latch. As far as my doors popping out, I just have the factory door jam poppers (the little black plastic ones that pivot to assist the door opening at first when latch releases.

Mine are just spring loaded latch. The handles are shave inside and outside of the car, it's an old mecanical style from the 80's. it convert your door locks into push rods to unlock the door from the inside and the outside are just open with the key. I'll check for the brand if I can..( thats if you don't like to split wires in your doors.)
 

91hrdbdy

Greasemonkey
Jun 15, 2011
132
2
18

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jlcustomz

G-Body Guru
Nov 22, 2011
983
1,096
93
Thought I'd throw this up here now, even though I never finished them. These are handmade stainless steel handles made to mount into the upper angled body shape of the doors. I cut a slot in the top of the door skin & brace to slide them in from the end of the doors. Took a dremel with a 1/4" bit & 1/8" shaft to reach in & cut the door brace wider than the door skin slot for the case to slide into. Will have a stainless plate end plate to screw to end of door & tie the end strength back together. Planning on filling back in the door skin end round cutout & making a knub on the front of the handle to push it up to grab with.
Due to the 45degree angle it's set in , the end of linkage had to be bent downwards & have articulating ends on the rod to push down on the factory part. Somewhat complex part to fabricate from scratch.
Will have electric remote door poppers also. Need to figure out how to lock the door with the flush handles & having solenoids. Probably a small lock to disable the handle itself.



 
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