1983 Cutlass

MrSony · Dec 2, 2016

I plan on rebuilding my BOP TH350 and I've spied this kit http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/AHP47001R-K-BOX-1.html
You think this is good for the money? I'll be getting a Boss Hog or B&M converter. Something with 1500-2000 stall. And a performance shift kit of some kind. I looked into getting an aftermarket trans, but everyone I've seen has the kickdown removed, and I want the thing to slam into 1st or second from a roll and bark the tires. Also bark them shifting from 1-2. 2-3 rubber I think is asking a bit much lol.

Shakes the Rat · Dec 3, 2016

MrSony said:
I plan on rebuilding my BOP TH350 and I've spied this kit http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/AHP47001R-K-BOX-1.html
You think this is good for the money? I'll be getting a Boss Hog or B&M converter. Something with 1500-2000 stall. And a performance shift kit of some kind. I looked into getting an aftermarket trans, but everyone I've seen has the kickdown removed, and I want the thing to slam into 1st or second from a roll and bark the tires. Also bark them shifting from 1-2. 2-3 rubber I think is asking a bit much lol.

It looks like a good price if you don't want to piece everything together. A lot of kits include the same part numbers and but every kit won't necessarily include the same parts. The kit price can vary so if you are willing to take the time to shop around and/or order from different vendors, you can get it much cheaper. I'll have around $500 total in mine when I'm finished but I had to make two different orders.

That kit does look complete though. It includes the bushings, thrust washers, and hardened sprag. Many kits don't. That kit doesn't include the fifth direct clutch and steel (but to be fair, I haven't seen a kit that does). Those are around $20. So no matter what kit you go with, expect to buy a few extra parts.

MrSony · Dec 3, 2016

Shakes the Rat said:
It looks like a good price if you don't want to piece everything together. A lot of kits include the same part numbers and but every kit won't necessarily include the same parts. The kit price can vary so if you are willing to take the time to shop around and/or order from different vendors, you can get it much cheaper. I'll have around $500 total in mine when I'm finished but I had to make two different orders.

That kit does look complete though. It includes the bushings, thrust washers, and hardened sprag. Many kits don't. That kit doesn't include the fifth direct clutch and steel (but to be fair, I haven't seen a kit that does). Those are around $20. So no matter what kit you go with, expect to buy a few extra parts.

thanks for your input man.

Shakes the Rat · Dec 5, 2016

I'm still waiting on a few transmission parts so I'm still on the frame. The first thing is to box the center section. The easy way is to cut a flat piece of steel and weld it to the open part of the frame. I did that with my F100 and it worked great. It stiffened the frame considerably but I was never happy with the way it looked. The outside frame rail has a nice rounded, stamped corner but the inside has a sharp, welded and ground edge. It's only cosmetic but it still bugs me. Even though very few people will see the underside of the Oldsmobile's frame, I want it to look as factory as possible. That means I have to fold this 11 gauge steel to fit over the frame.

I started this morning by making a tool to attach to my 10 ton press.

I used some steel plate, a section of fence post, and a few pieces of 1/2 stainless rod I bought for the sissy bar on my Honda. After a few test pieces to figure out where the measurements needed to be to put the flanges in the correct place, I could start bending the steel. The press only folds 5 inches at a time and it needs multiple passed to bend the edges far enough but it worked great.

I need to dolly the edges since the bending process leaves them wavy. I also need to make the piece to transition from the transmission mount to the new panels. I want to drill speed holes along the panel if I can make a dimple die. And I also need a place to slide in the body bushing. I was only able to make the drivers side panel today but when I make the passenger side, I'll remember to take more pictures.

Opie Knievel · Dec 5, 2016

Shakes the Rat said:
I'm still waiting on a few transmission parts so I'm still on the frame. The first thing is to box the center section. The easy way is to cut a flat piece of steel and weld it to the open part of the frame. I did that with my F100 and it worked great. It stiffened the frame considerably but I was never happy with the way it looked. The outside frame rail has a nice rounded, stamped corner but the inside has a sharp, welded and ground edge. It's only cosmetic but it still bugs me. Even though very few people will see the underside of the Oldsmobile's frame, I want it to look as factory as possible. That means I have to fold this 11 gauge steel to fit over the frame.

I started this morning by making a tool to attach to my 10 ton press.

I used some steel plate, a section of fence post, and a few pieces of 1/2 stainless rod I bought for the sissy bar on my Honda. After a few test pieces to figure out where the measurements needed to be to put the flanges in the correct place, I could start bending the steel. The press only folds 5 inches at a time and it needs multiple passed to bend the edges far enough but it worked great.

I need to dolly the edges since the bending process leaves them wavy. I also need to make the piece to transition from the transmission mount to the new panels. I want to drill speed holes along the panel if I can make a dimple die. And I also need a place to slide in the body bushing. I was only able to make the drivers side panel today but when I make the passenger side, I'll remember to take more pictures.

I like the way you're boxing the frame. I agree, it'll look more original with the rounded corners.

Shakes the Rat · Dec 15, 2016

I haven't made much progress on the Olds this past week. Normally have no problem with distractions but this past week things have kept me out of the shop.

I made another rail last week because I wasn't happy with the first. I used a guide to keep the bend straight but I still had the rail open up 1/8" at the front. So after thinking about it over a couple beers, I gave up on making the rails. I'm going to the junkyard this weekend with a sawzall and I'm cutting the rails off another car. Flip them over and trim and I'll have a factory looking rail that fits.

I did get started on the transmission today. Mostly prep. I scrubbed the case, took a file to all the flashing and scrubbed it down again. I painted it Ford gray (bring the hate). I need to take the direct drum and have it machined for the fifth clutch and I'll be able to start the assembly.

Texas82GP · Dec 15, 2016

I don't enjoy bringing hate or reading it. Looks good!

Opie Knievel · Dec 15, 2016

Texas82GP said:
I don't enjoy bringing hate or reading it. Looks good!

I'm not crazy about the name but that color does look pretty good!

L67ss · Dec 15, 2016

What kinda wheels you going with?

Shakes the Rat · Dec 15, 2016

L67ss said:
What kinda wheels you going with?

I'm not entirely sure but I am leaning towards these.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/uwc-521-5861p

Even though it's becoming a less popular size, I'm 99% sure I'm staying with a 15". I run 275/40/18 on my truck and it rides noticeably rougher than before so I probably won't go that size again. They'll probably be the last thing I buy since I have a brand new set of 14's to use as rollers that I bought two weeks before I blew up the motor.

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1983 Cutlass

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