No, actually I skipped over and disregarded most of what you wrote, and provided general guidance on the subject for the benefit of the group. Do with it what you will. Seriously.
The effect of intake air temp on engine temperature.
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No, actually I skipped over and disregarded most of what you wrote, and provided general guidance on the subject for the benefit of the group. Do with it what you will. Seriously.
The front edge of the fan is only about 1/8 of a inch inside the shroud.
My son and I drove it to the next town over ( about 28 miles round trip and it never went over 190. The speed limit was 55mph except for a short 70mph zone. Fan clutch seems to be working fine. I stuck a piece of rolled up newspaper in the fan while at idle and it nearly shredded it. Seems to be moving plenty of air is well.
Factory air dam is also intact as well as all factory rubber baffles in front of radiator.
The heater had a electronically controlled heater control valve before the heater core, so I have my doubts to if that is the issue.
I am honestly leaning to a not so highway friendly gear ratio combined with non overdrive trans as the culprit.
I would still be willing to try swapping out a thermostat and other inexpensive things.
How about a straight fan without clutch? I could also position the fan depth in to the shroud better as well if I went this route.
My son and I drove it to the next town over ( about 28 miles round trip and it never went over 190. The speed limit was 55mph except for a short 70mph zone. Fan clutch seems to be working fine. I stuck a piece of rolled up newspaper in the fan while at idle and it nearly shredded it. Seems to be moving plenty of air is well.
Factory air dam is also intact as well as all factory rubber baffles in front of radiator.
The heater had a electronically controlled heater control valve before the heater core, so I have my doubts to if that is the issue.
I am honestly leaning to a not so highway friendly gear ratio combined with non overdrive trans as the culprit.
I would still be willing to try swapping out a thermostat and other inexpensive things.
How about a straight fan without clutch? I could also position the fan depth in to the shroud better as well if I went this route.
Belt driven fans are more powerful than most electric fans. It takes a very powerful, high amp electric motor to match crankshaft power, even with belt and clutch slippage factored in. That is why good electric fans are very expensive and require thick gage wires to handle the amps. The electric fan's advantage is its more efficent off time, though it consumes just as much power as a belt fan when on and features more failure points than belt fans.
Everything else Mike posted I agree with.
Everything else Mike posted I agree with.
You know what? **** it. Let me break it down for you on how you can render an electric fan completely ineffective (please note that I may seem like I am repeating my previous points) by being a total redneck:
1. Just hanging an electric fan behind a radiator is hack, it actually needs to be sealed to the core. And quite closely I might add;
2. This is assuming your fan actually had a shroud and could be sealed to the core (and is large enough to seal the entire core and not just part of it);
3. Ensure that the electric fan can actually provide the necessary flow (rated in CFM) to pull the air needed to cool the engine (most of what Summit and Jegs sell is crap, get an OEM-based setup);
4. The fan shroud will also need to be able to bleed of air flow coming through the radiator at speed, it prevent the air from deadheading inside the usually tight shroud. This usually some ports or flaps that open;
5. The electrical system need to be up to task, if there is a voltage drop or improper wiring (like feed it off the battery and not the alternator with a relay) it just adds issues; and
6. Make sure the fan turns off at highway speeds (ie temp turn on point is above cruising temps), it doesn't do anything of value if the system is sealed well. But, sh*t I already said that.
1. Just hanging an electric fan behind a radiator is hack, it actually needs to be sealed to the core. And quite closely I might add;
2. This is assuming your fan actually had a shroud and could be sealed to the core (and is large enough to seal the entire core and not just part of it);
3. Ensure that the electric fan can actually provide the necessary flow (rated in CFM) to pull the air needed to cool the engine (most of what Summit and Jegs sell is crap, get an OEM-based setup);
4. The fan shroud will also need to be able to bleed of air flow coming through the radiator at speed, it prevent the air from deadheading inside the usually tight shroud. This usually some ports or flaps that open;
5. The electrical system need to be up to task, if there is a voltage drop or improper wiring (like feed it off the battery and not the alternator with a relay) it just adds issues; and
6. Make sure the fan turns off at highway speeds (ie temp turn on point is above cruising temps), it doesn't do anything of value if the system is sealed well. But, sh*t I already said that.
200 degrees isn't bad from an "emissions" standpoint... the first three things he said are relevant to you, maybe the wetter water too.(first post)
5th item is of importance as well...
you aren't the only one reading these posts... so it could be relevant to others as well.
engine driven fans do work, when they work! so do electrics. when sized properly...
5th item is of importance as well...
you aren't the only one reading these posts... so it could be relevant to others as well.
engine driven fans do work, when they work! so do electrics. when sized properly...
I agreed with most of what he said as well, but I prefer to speak to others as human beings.
Twin fan unit with shroud. Check.
Foam seal around perimeter of shroud. Check.
Complete cooling surface of radiator covered with said twin fan unit. Check.
120 amp alternator. Check.
Fans wired with proper sized wiring for load. Check.
Fan relays. Check.
Thermostatic switch control. (Check)
Relays actuated by grounding circuit. Check.( systems are actuated this way in modern cars......surprised I knew that?)
have you checked to make sure the temperature you gauge is reading is accurate? Don't use a 195° because that thermostat will not open fully till 200° to 205° and your fan may not be enough to pull it back down. Plus if you get it under 195° the thermostat will close up again. I don't know what temperatures you have your fan to start but they may be on constantly it's set to shut off at 190°
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Could be that as well.
At lower cruise speeds (55 mph) it reads at 185-190. Which I feel is fine. When I get on the interstate where cruising speed is 75 mph is when the temp climbs . My commute to work is 70 miles one way. It is almost 75 mph the whole way except the last 10 miles.
It never shows any signs of overheating, but looking at the temp it looks like it is on the ragged edge.
This is with the A/c on as well.
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