350 Rocket: Machine Shop

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Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
28
Triana
I have my eye on a local machine shop. I wanted to get feedback from the forum gurus on which ideas I should incorporate into my 350 Rocket when I begin talking to the machine shop guys. I don't want to get too exotic...I just want beef....but I want to be able to drive it 2 hours on the free-way at the drop of a dime....

Here's my complimentary setup: 2004 trans, 2500 stall, 373 posi.
 

TRX

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 20, 2009
31
4
8
Central Arkansas
If you can obtain early style high compression pistons, the Olds will run well on modern gas even at 10:1. Earlier heads are generally better; none of the ones that came on the G-bodies are anything to brag about.

Oldsmobile played with valve seat angles; some heads had 30 degree intake seats, others had 30 degree exhaust seats. Unless the seats or valves are damaged, have the shop replicate the original seats. "A good 3-angle valve job" won't necessarily gain you much on an Olds.

Oldsmobiles came from the factory with long-travel lifters; aftermarket replacement lifters are mostly the Chevrolet short-travel type. Many shops haven't seen an Olds V8 in a long time; a younger machinist may just bolt everything together like the book says. A good shop will have shim packs to adjust the rocker stand height. It's a good idea to check the lifter travel before you put the engine in the car.

Olds V8s have several "extra" oil plugs compared to a Chevy, and it's not all that uncommon for one to get missed. It's a very good idea to use a drill to pre-oil the engine after you check the lifter travel, before you drop it into the car. Just in case.

There were some variations on exhaust manifold bolt patterns. Oldsmobile assumed rigid cast iron manifolds when they designed the engine; it can be hard to get headers to seal. If you're planning on headers, check their fit to the heads *before* you take the heads in to be worked on. Sometimes it's possible to drill and tap a later head for a "missing" exhaust bolt.

The center exhaust divider is cut back in most Olds heads. The fashion swings from "doesn't hurt anything in practice, no matter what theory says" to "absolutely must be welded up flush." It's your decision there...
 
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Bar50

Royal Smart Person
Jan 1, 2009
1,180
870
113
Tulsa, OK
To my knowledge they don't shim rockers arms, the ends of the valves are ground to make them all the same height after the valve job.

Most of the said rocker arms are worn on the aluminum trunions (stand or bridge) that they pivoted on. As Olds have non-adjustable valve train from the factory. There are some kits to make use of small block Chevy rocker arms out there.

Olds stuff is unique, I would advise getting your hands on an Olds engine building tips book from Mondello or Dick Miller Racing.

I have a personal preference for Clevite bearings and Hastings rings. I also prefer Valvoline VR1 racing oil.

Get the best flowing head you can afford, it just makes it easier to make usable power.

I ran headers on mine, but now that reproduction W Z 442 exhaust manifolds are available, that is probably the route I would go if I build another Olds.

There used to be some preferred oil system modifications to big blocks Olds, I am not sure if they apply to small block Olds.
 
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Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
28
Triana
If you can obtain early style high compression pistons, the Olds will run well on modern gas even at 10:1. Earlier heads are generally better; none of the ones that came on the G-bodies are anything to brag about.

Oldsmobile played with valve seat angles; some heads had 30 degree intake seats, others had 30 degree exhaust seats. Unless the seats or valves are damaged, have the shop replicate the original seats. "A good 3-angle valve job" won't necessarily gain you much on an Olds.

Oldsmobiles came from the factory with long-travel lifters; aftermarket replacement lifters are mostly the Chevrolet short-travel type. Many shops haven't seen an Olds V8 in a long time; a younger machinist may just bolt everything together like the book says. A good shop will have shim packs to adjust the rocker stand height. It's a good idea to check the lifter travel before you put the engine in the car.

Olds V8s have several "extra" oil plugs compared to a Chevy, and it's not all that uncommon for one to get missed. It's a very good idea to use a drill to pre-oil the engine after you check the lifter travel, before you drop it into the car. Just in case.

There were some variations on exhaust manifold bolt patterns. Oldsmobile assumed rigid cast iron manifolds when they designed the engine; it can be hard to get headers to seal. If you're planning on headers, check their fit to the heads *before* you take the heads in to be worked on. Sometimes it's possible to drill and tap a later head for a "missing" exhaust bolt.

The center exhaust divider is cut back in most Olds heads. The fashion swings from "doesn't hurt anything in practice, no matter what theory says" to "absolutely must be welded up flush." It's your decision there...
This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. I'm going to print this out, study it and use it as a platform to discuss my ideas with the machine shop. Thanks.
 

Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
28
Triana
To my knowledge they don't shim rockers arms, the ends of the valves are ground to make them all the same height after the valve job.

Most of the said rocker arms are worn on the aluminum trunions (stand or bridge) that they pivoted on. As Olds have non-adjustable valve train from the factory. There are some kits to make use of small block Chevy rocker arms out there.

Olds stuff is unique, I would advise getting your hands on an Olds engine building tips book from Mondello or Dick Miller Racing.

I have a personal preference for Clevite bearings and Hastings rings. I also prefer Valvoline VR1 racing oil.

Get the best flowing head you can afford, it just makes it easier to make usable power.

I ran headers on mine, but now that reproduction W Z 442 exhaust manifolds are available, that is probably the route I would go if I build another Olds.

There used to be some preferred oil system modifications to big blocks Olds, I am not sure if they apply to small block Olds.

Ok, very useful. I was planning on going with long tube headers. I never heard anything about WZ 442 reproduction exhaust manifolds.....what is your take on them?
 

Pharozen

Greasemonkey
Dec 19, 2012
205
42
28
Triana
If you can obtain early style high compression pistons, the Olds will run well on modern gas even at 10:1. Earlier heads are generally better; none of the ones that came on the G-bodies are anything to brag about.

Oldsmobile played with valve seat angles; some heads had 30 degree intake seats, others had 30 degree exhaust seats. Unless the seats or valves are damaged, have the shop replicate the original seats. "A good 3-angle valve job" won't necessarily gain you much on an Olds.

Oldsmobiles came from the factory with long-travel lifters; aftermarket replacement lifters are mostly the Chevrolet short-travel type. Many shops haven't seen an Olds V8 in a long time; a younger machinist may just bolt everything together like the book says. A good shop will have shim packs to adjust the rocker stand height. It's a good idea to check the lifter travel before you put the engine in the car.

Olds V8s have several "extra" oil plugs compared to a Chevy, and it's not all that uncommon for one to get missed. It's a very good idea to use a drill to pre-oil the engine after you check the lifter travel, before you drop it into the car. Just in case.

There were some variations on exhaust manifold bolt patterns. Oldsmobile assumed rigid cast iron manifolds when they designed the engine; it can be hard to get headers to seal. If you're planning on headers, check their fit to the heads *before* you take the heads in to be worked on. Sometimes it's possible to drill and tap a later head for a "missing" exhaust bolt.

The center exhaust divider is cut back in most Olds heads. The fashion swings from "doesn't hurt anything in practice, no matter what theory says" to "absolutely must be welded up flush." It's your decision there...
In reference to earlier heads...I was under the impression that Olds heads 1968-1970, werer more desirable. I have a 1971 Olds rocket, so I'm thinking my factory heads are desirable....
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,806
7,746
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Make sure the shop gives .0026-.0028" clearance on the center exhaust guides. Most shops throw Chevy clearances at them and the valves stick. Put 2.07"/1.625" valves with a bowl hog, clean up and a good valve job. Your #7 heads are as good as any of the early heads. Mark Remmel, Cutlassefi on ROP and does custom cams for Oldsmobile's. He also worked with Mahle with 1mm/1mm/2mm ring packs, bringing modern pistons for the Olds 350 and 425, since they have the same compression height. He also is bringing a forged 4" stroker crank for the Olds 350. The W/Z manifolds, which don't fit the Olds 350 due to deck height differences give up 30 HP over good headers. The Thornton JR manifolds are new castings that fit the 350, have a center divider and 2.25" outlets but they would marginal over craptastic regular manifolds. With Olds wide deck, there just isn't room for decent manifolds.
 
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