Header and Pypes 2 1/2" X-pipe system install on Elky w/LT1

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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
537
767
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San Angelo, TX
Really nice work!
I love when you do not see the system hanging below the frame from the side. (Unless you have a 4 inch system)
Your attention to details show not only on the exhaust system but that El Camino looks gorgeous!
Bob S.
Thanks Bob!
Glad you enjoy the details. Yes, cutting clearance was not going to happen for me. I never want to worry about hitting things. Been there, done that, lost mufflers. :)

I'm doing an extensive refresh to the entire car. I've got a build thread going on the El Camino Central forum. In retrospect, I should have done that thread on this site. That one doesn't seem to be all that active.
Here's the link if you care to take a look:
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=200250
I'm going to be painting the car white.
 

roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
537
767
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San Angelo, TX
I'm still probably a week away from being able to try out my new headers. I did finish the A/C hose rearrangement to clear the header tube on the back of the compressor. That took some doing but I think it came out fine. I ended up replacing all my A/C hoses, condenser and accumulator with this job too. I also used reduced diameter barrier hose and connectors for the suction and discharge lines. They made the job a lot easier. You need all the room you can get on the back of the compressor.

I bought a new Camaro condenser that is parallel flow and has the connections on the passenger side instead of the driver side. It fits perfect with on a couple of quick and simple modifications.

I also got an accumulator for a different application. It's the same except the suction connection is at the top instead of on the bottom so that funky wrap around tube isn't needed.

I bought this swivel type of compressor manifold:

universal-swivel-style-compressor-manifold-600x.jpg


I had to modify it some by grinding on the both the suction fitting and the holder on the manifold to allow the fitting to swing further past vertical. Otherwise, the hose elbow fitting was too close to the header tube.

Here's a photo with the header temporarily installed and before I made the modification:

full


After I did the grinding and allowing it to swing further, there's about 1/2" of clearance there:

full


There's just about no way to tighten everything properly without removing the header. Here's a shot of the compressor with the header out of the way:

full


Here's that accumulator. Much better setup for an LT1 and headers.

full


This next photo shows the condenser tubes coming off the passenger side. I put the high-side port fitting on this end of the discharge hose and a switch port on the liquid line for the trinary switch. The original setup only had one port on the other end of the liquid line.

full


I ran into another glitch with these headers in that the head ports for temperature sensors are just about impossible to use.
I was using both ports too. One for the Dakota VHX gauges and the other for a switch to control my electric radiator fans.

To solve, I moved the Dakota sender down to the LT1's water drain hole on the driver side. It's on the block in the middle right above the oil pan lip. I don't see any problem using that for a sender and there's plenty of room down there.
For the issue of where to put a fan switch, I have on order a Dakota Digital PAC-2750 fan controller. It integrates into the Dakota gauge controller and uses data from it's sensor. This will also allow me to run a 3-relay, 2-speed system for the dual radiator fans.
 
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Michaelweez

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 15, 2016
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Looks really nice, you got the mufflers tucked up nicely! I have the same kit on my 84 with the pypes race pro mufflers, I could not get the kit in stock form to tuck up at all...ended up having to bring it to a custom exhaust shop to refit and it still isn't tucked up as far as yours.
 

Z48LT1

Greasemonkey
Oct 10, 2015
162
217
43
Space Coast, Florida
Beautiful! I'm about to do the same install myself - Lt1/4L60E out of a B-body into an 86 Elco and have a ton of questions. Did you have chassis clearance issues with the A/C compressor and how did you resolve them? What radiator did you use? Did you get a PCM tune? From where? Do I understand you used a Walbro external fuel pump up to now? Did you use the OE fuel lines?

I've collected a bunch of parts anticipating putting the drivetrain in my '48 Chevy street rod project that I've finally burned out on in favor of the Elco. I've got a '95 Z28 gas tank with pump - any idea whether that might work? I'll get some pix of it up some day soon.

(I've also got an 8.5" rear end I spent $1400 on to get 3.23 gears and an Eaton Posi in; only trouble is it's in a leaf spring axle and would probably cost more to adapt than it'd be worth.)

I guess a better question is do you have an original build thread anywhere (was '98 before Al Gore invented the internet?)?

Any engine/transmission mods? I had a ZZ3/4 cam modded and installed it with the recommended valve springs, installed a 2800 RPM Yank torque converter and a TransGo shift kit so I was desperate to use the engine and transmission and when the Elco came up for sale I had to have it.

I'm sure I'm not out of questions.

Cheers - Gary

Edit - New question - After all the hassle of the new headers, would you go a different way if you were starting over replacing the cast iron 305 exhaust manifolds? If I wanted an easier way and weren't as concerned about performance, would you recommend a less troubling solution? Right now I've got street rod block hugger style headers and have no clue whether they'll give me any clearance problems - they fit fine in a '48 Chevy engine compartment.:blah::)
 
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Opie Knievel

Rum Fueled Midnight Mechanic and Moderator
Sep 6, 2010
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Brodhead, Kentucky
That exhaust system looks good. I love how it doesn't hang down below the frame.
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
537
767
93
San Angelo, TX
Beautiful! I'm about to do the same install myself - Lt1/4L60E out of a B-body into an 86 Elco and have a ton of questions.
Did you have chassis clearance issues with the A/C compressor and how did you resolve them?
I needed to add space at the front to clear the compressor clutch. Used a torch to heat the frame some and beat it in with a hammer.
At the rear of the compressor, I cut a small notch to add clearance.


What radiator did you use?
At first I used a new stock radiator. I had cooling issues. I tried a couple of fan combos but it didn't solve the issues.
Bought a new Champion 3-row and their dual fan shroud. But I bought the fans separately and got a pair of Spal's.

Cools very well with that combo. I'm using only the radiator cooler for the transmission but do have both an oil cooler and power steering cooler mounted horizontally on to the bottom of the radiator core.

Did you get a PCM tune? From where?
Yes. Fuel Injection Specialties in San Antonio made my wiring harness and altered my PCM. Turned off the VATS, eliminated EGR and set the rear ratio to 3.42.

Do I understand you used a Walbro external fuel pump up to now?
I've had 3 fuel in-line fuel pumps on this since the engine install. First 2 died and 3rd was a Walbro which I believe was a lot better of a pump.
Just changing to an in-tank pump now. Using a Walbro for that too.


Did you use the OE fuel lines?
Only line that is original is the one that goes to the carbon cannister. I've got the purge line inserted into the air filter box I'm using. It seems to work but not very sophisticated.
I did not use the stock lines after installing the engine 20 years ago. Used rubber all the way. Knew it wasn't great to do that though. I was more lazy back then.
I just ran new hard line up the frame for supply and return. Both 3/8" and all AN fittings. Converts to short lengths of rubber at the engine and tank.


I've collected a bunch of parts anticipating putting the drivetrain in my '48 Chevy street rod project that I've finally burned out on in favor of the Elco. I've got a '95 Z28 gas tank with pump - any idea whether that might work? I'll get some pix of it up some day soon.
Don't know but I doubt it. The tank for the Elky has to be a pretty specific shape.

(I've also got an 8.5" rear end I spent $1400 on to get 3.23 gears and an Eaton Posi in; only trouble is it's in a leaf spring axle and would probably cost more to adapt than it'd be worth.)

I guess a better question is do you have an original build thread anywhere (was '98 before Al Gore invented the internet?)?
Ha! I do not. I didn't take photos back then like I do now either. I kept a note book that is pretty organized though.

Any engine/transmission mods? I had a ZZ3/4 cam modded and installed it with the recommended valve springs, installed a 2800 RPM Yank torque converter and a TransGo shift kit so I was desperate to use the engine and transmission and when the Elco came up for sale I had to have it.
No, all stock inside. The '96 engine and transmission were new when I got them. (Only 26K mi on it at the present.) I had to make a modification to the valve body of the transmission because I used a '94 PCM. The lockup works differently and it wouldn't ever lock up without the mod.

I'm sure I'm not out of questions.
Cheers - Gary

Edit - New question - After all the hassle of the new headers, would you go a different way if you were starting over replacing the cast iron 305 exhaust manifolds? If I wanted an easier way and weren't as concerned about performance, would you recommend a less troubling solution? Right now I've got street rod block hugger style headers and have no clue whether they'll give me any clearance problems - they fit fine in a '48 Chevy engine compartment.:blah::)
Not really. Now that I'm retired, nothing is a hassle to me. More like solving a puzzle. The harder the job, the higher the satisfaction level. Any other option that requires a completely new exhaust system is going to be a lot of work if you do it yourself.
Of course if I were really starting over, I would go with an LSx for the car. Just wouldn't have made sense for me to do so because the LT1 is still so fresh. It's a great running engine too.
 
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Z48LT1

Greasemonkey
Oct 10, 2015
162
217
43
Space Coast, Florida
Roger,

Thanks for the info. I've just started to go through your gallery at Hot Rod Forum and when you get tired of me asking you to relive your original swap, please lemme know. I don't want to be a pita.

That dash is cool as beans. What's the story behind it?

(I've got a couple gauge clusters from '95 Z28s that I was intending to put in my street rod project. I haven't gotten around to contemplating whether it might be possible to adapt those gauges to the Elco dash but your super cool gauge package gives me impure thoughts....)

Is the fuel pump/sending unit/whatever module you picture in the recent pics all OE with the possible exception of the Walbro pump you're trying to adapt? You mentioned earlier the sending unit was a problem -- why didn't the original sending unit work? Was it the new dash?

All for now, I guess. I may have just started, alas (for you ;-)

Cheers - Gary
 

roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
537
767
93
San Angelo, TX
Dash story:
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/my-dakota-digital-vhx-install-w-dash-remodel.63388/
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/my-dakota-digital-vhx-install-w-dash-remodel.63388/
The original tank didn't work well for FI because it doesn't have a baffle. The original sender doesn't have a provision to be able to mount a fuel pump to without extensive work.
The new sender I bought is for an '87 V6 TBI El Camino with a 17 gallon tank. It's the only FI sender available for El Caminos and it's a reproduction. Not as high of quality as an original. It is specifically designed to mount a lower pressure pump for that TBI engine. A multiport FI engine needs a higher pressure pump. I bought a pump for a multiport FI Camaro but I couldn't get it to fit well on to the sender and be able to insert it into the tank. The Walbro GS340 fit it better but I still had to bend the metal tubes on the sender a little. I bent the sender's float arm to have the same swing as my original sender which was a 22 gallon version. The swing arm is the only difference between a sender for the 17 gallon tank and the 22. In fact, even the tanks are the exactly same. The 17 gallon tank doesn't fill as high.

No the dash didn't have anything to do with the changes I made at the tank. I simply wanted to convert to using an in-tank pump versus an external.


http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=200250
 

Z48LT1

Greasemonkey
Oct 10, 2015
162
217
43
Space Coast, Florida
Roger,

Mind telling me which Pypes kit you bought? The descriptions all look the same to me. I'm gonna see if the street rod shorty headers I have will make the fitting job easy before I make any decision. I doubt anything will turn out easy.

Also, where did you get your transmission crossmember from? I've got the OPG catalog; is there anywhere that's cheaper?

Many thanks, in advance. - Gary
 
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