That might be a bear to ship though. I remember G-boz around the forum(s) for a long time. Never seen any bad feedback about him.
roof rot malibu
- Thread starter malibujustin
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He seems like a nice guy. Got some good looking parts to. I think he is going to greyhound it. Greyhound website says they will take a pretty good size package. I have heard they may be cheaper than ups, fed ex, etc. Never used them before but Mr G-boz seems familiar with them. Jared also said G-boz was a good guy.
David,
I've had a large size box shipped from Ohio to Fla. via Greyhound. This was years back. I had my inner cargo panels shipped and they arrived just fine. If I recall, they were cheaper than the usual shipping companies.
I'm sure G-boz is a decent guy, even though I never purchased anything from him.
I've had a large size box shipped from Ohio to Fla. via Greyhound. This was years back. I had my inner cargo panels shipped and they arrived just fine. If I recall, they were cheaper than the usual shipping companies.
I'm sure G-boz is a decent guy, even though I never purchased anything from him.
I got whole roof Monday for malibu. With a pillars attached from gboz (greg). Thanks. Looks good and arrived good. I want to thank junbug from here on forum for sending me the partial roof that was in great shape to. Will hold onto it if someone else ever needs one. I also want to thank 78chevelle and 85ss/85gn for offering roof sections too. Great bunch of guys.
Now I have windshield out of course. Discovered some deep rust pits on a pillar about 4 inches down on window channel so am going to have to cut down on a pillars and butt weld new roof below that point. Reusing my b pillars. On replacement roof c pillars not quite cut down to factory seam, but does include rear window upper channel.
Questions....after measuring and remeasuring, but before I cut old roof off should I add some kind of bracing to a pillars and c pillars or will they stay in place? Also what do you guys think would be better to cut it off with? Sawzall, cutoff wheel, torch, airsaw?
Thanks
Now I have windshield out of course. Discovered some deep rust pits on a pillar about 4 inches down on window channel so am going to have to cut down on a pillars and butt weld new roof below that point. Reusing my b pillars. On replacement roof c pillars not quite cut down to factory seam, but does include rear window upper channel.
Questions....after measuring and remeasuring, but before I cut old roof off should I add some kind of bracing to a pillars and c pillars or will they stay in place? Also what do you guys think would be better to cut it off with? Sawzall, cutoff wheel, torch, airsaw?
Thanks
Justin, I would add a few temporary braces in. It can't hurt, and it's always better to be safe than sorry.
You'll probably need to use a combination of most of those tools you listed to get the old roof cut off. I would use the ones that create the least amount of heat and distortion, to avoid creating more work for you down the road.
The only one you listed I'm not a fan of is the torch, unless you're just using it to make very rough crude cuts well away from the final cut line. Try to use the ones that you will have the best control over, and precision with.
Also, if I might add, try and place your cuts on all the pillars, both pieces new and on the car, staggered from each other. Even on the same pillar of possible. This will ensure more strength, and less possibility of having the whole roof come off in the same plane in the event of a bad collision.
Just something to consider before you start. Hope this helps.
Donovan
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If I may suggest, can you separate the old roof from the B- and C-pillars, keeping the window / door frame rails intact? Then weld in just the roof skin and the A-pillars. This extra work may preserve the alignment of the glass mounts and door frame, so everything fits back together correctly later.
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Ok the questions you ask can have very technical answers in collision work there are procedures for splices the general rules witch do very are inner and outer panels should not be but welded in the same spot. So I would cut the inner structure long on the car and short on the Donner so the replacement roof skin gos over the original inner structure by 4 to 6 inches this will require drilling out some spot welds and staggering your cuts then plug welding the drill holes when re installing the new roof you shouldn't just lop it off and but weld it on I hope this helps my battery is dying so I hope another body man chimes
To add to Clutch's post, if some of the A-pillars are salvageable, slice them in half vertically, and make a 'Z' weld rather than a butt weld. Stronger and safer. Don't forget to treat the inside of any place you have accessible - raw metal, welds especially, are starter spots for future rust.
Try to find a reference point common to both roofs around the windshield that you can use as a comparison measurement. You just might want to consult a competent body shop to do the splice...
Try to find a reference point common to both roofs around the windshield that you can use as a comparison measurement. You just might want to consult a competent body shop to do the splice...
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