http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garag...inum-Metric-Caliper-2-Inch-Piston,295324.html
Looks like they need custom flex lines.
Looks like they need custom flex lines.
If putting these on the front, the piston is too small and will not generate substantial clamping forces to stop the car well. In most cases, aluminum will deflect more versus cast iron or cast steel. If you need a 2.0" bore caliper, I would go with the Wilwood cast iron caliper (link below). You are not giving up much in weight, but the rigidity of the caliper will be much better with substantially less deflection. I am not sure how you would save 15lb over stock with just one caliper. Amazon shows a shipping weight of 3.8lb for the AFCO caliper. Stock caliper weighs about 6lb 5oz. Wilwood caliper 2.0" piston weight: 4lb 1.6oz
From a weight standpoint, the stock setup is pretty light. You could go lighter, but you would be spending thousands of dollars with little to NO gain in braking performance and in some situations you may loose braking performance and streetablily. This is money that could be spend on the engine/trans/rear.
For the money, other than pads, you will get no better bang for the buck than a set of 2.75" Wilwood calipers. There is no caliper that will bolt on to the stock system that gives you more clamping force, rigidity, and weight reduction than this caliper. I will get flamed for this, but a Wilwood caliper swap is a better upgrade than the Blazer spindle/brake conversion when using the stock power boosted braking system, in my opinion.
That being said, there is little to be gained with using the Wilwood 2.75" caliper and manual brakes. I usually recommend staying with a stock size caliper with manual brakes and going with a 7/8" bore master cylinder. If you upgrade to the 2.75" Wilwood caliper, you have to go up in master cylinder cylinder bore size to supply the volume of brake fluid needed that the larger bore caliper requres. By doing this, you loose line pressure which reduces clamping force.
2.75" Wilwood Caliper and 24mm bore master cylinder: 1001 ft/lb of rotor torque
2.5" stock caliper and 7/8" bore master cylinder: 967 ft/lb of rotor torque
The slight gain in clamping force and weight reduction is not worth the extra $100-$200 spent on calipers along with a manual brake conversion, in my opinion.
A manual brake conversion is about a 9lb weight saving.
If keeping the vacuum booster setup, you may need to increase the size of the master cylinder with the 2.75" Wilwood caliper as they may become "touchy" with the stock 24mm bore power boosted master cylinder. With a boosted system, it is more about getting a good feel as the booster will give you the clamping forces you need to lock up the brakes.
Bottom line is what is the intended purpose of the wagon. Drag only, autocross, cruising, strip/street?
Hope my ramblings made sense.
FWIW, I had great success using B-body calipers when I auto-x'd my Turbo T using Hawk HP+ pads. I think they bit harder than the LS1 calipers I have on the wagon now.
That is interesting. Beyond the calipers do the 2nd Gen spindles have any benefits?
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