BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

Canon_Mutant

Royal Smart Person
Aug 15, 2015
1,159
1,420
113
E78AFE3A-F0B7-4CFB-A625-73D490359F70.jpeg


Hmmh, these Comp Rockers are not noisy though I do have the stamped “Oldsmobile” chrome CRS covers on mine.

OMG, and holy crap, you guys almost saw my motor! One of these days I will get it cleaned for proper web presentation.

I know, I’ve been saying that for a year :doh:
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,806
7,746
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
View attachment 75639

Hmmh, these Comp Rockers are not noisy though I do have the stamped “Oldsmobile” chrome CRS covers on mine.

OMG, and holy crap, you guys almost saw my motor! One of these days I will get it cleaned for proper web presentation.

I know, I’ve been saying that for a year :doh:
It is the steel roller tips that are noisy. Those are the true roller rocker arms.
 

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,155
23,832
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Glad to see the guts inside the art. I swore the whole time it was a stock 305. Shoulda known better when I saw those triple humps when you posted the air cleaner pics. F'n bad *ss

Thanks man!
If I can fool the guys that know these cars inside and out like you all do, I must be doing something right!
;)

Love your flush mount side lights. Just curious . . . how do you seal that edge to keep it from re-rusting? Obviously, the overlap seal didn't help from the factory but is there a coating you can put on that edge and sealer in behind that will protect over time?

Love all the cool little clamps you have to hold all this together. I've never seen this done at this level of detail . . . even with all the rebuild shows that are on TV now days. Perhaps you already have one but I would think you could land a lucrative job on any of them BTW. Though some of them are ridiculous, on the good shows, I haven't seen any better work on any of them . . . FWIW!

Wow...
I’m so flattered I’m not quite sure what to say! Thanks very much Garth. You’re very kind sir!

As for the flush mount marker lights, my plan is to use actual real rubber as the gasket around the light. I’ve got some really nice thin rubber material here that should do the job nicely. It’s simil to conveyor belt material, but more pliable and all rubber.

From the factory, GM used foam as the seal. And we all know how well foam seals against water. It doesn’t.
It does however act as a really efficient sponge. Which almost certainly accelerated the corrosion issues in these areas. Couple that with the fact that the foam is now nearly 40 years old and half missing, it’s not hard to see why it started rusting out there.

But getting back to my flush mount lights, I’m almost certain that as long as my rubber gasket makes a good solid seal all the way around the perimeter of the light, I should have no issues with any water getting in and exacerbating the problem again. Of course, nothing is ever set in stone, I’ll be conducting water tests once everything’s painted and installed. If I find any issues at that point, I’ll go from there. I guess my fallback plan would be to seal the light/gasket to the inside of the quarter panel with a thin bead of clear silicone.

Great question, thanks for asking about it!

What kind of awesome work !!!!!! Really really nice progress. I´m really excited to the result.

BR
Martin

Guten Tag Martin!
Glad to have you here on the thread!

Thanks very much for the kind words. I too am very excited for the end result.
There’s a lot of work to be done between now and then, but I’m making progress little by little.
Be sure to check back frequently, as things are constantly changing and evolving.

Tschüss!

I can tell you those Comp roller tips are loud under aluminum valve covers.

It is the steel roller tips that are noisy.

Christian, I can honestly say with having two sets of these exact rockers, I do not have any excessive valvetrain noise.
It may perhaps be attributed to your aluminum valve covers, but I would more suspect the rockers need to be adjusted/readjusted. May be something you want to look into. As for saying that all these Comp roller tip rockers are noisy, I feel that’s inaccurate and an unfair generalization. There’s just too many variables between engine types, component selections, oiling characteristics and other things that can cause valvetrain noise.
Just my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,155
23,832
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Ok, I ran out of time to do an update last night, and it’s already getting late again tonight, but I’m gonna try and do another one here anyways.

This one is still pertaining to the engine, there’s a couple of additional little things I’ve done that I didn’t include in the last update.
First off, here’s a couple of additional pics when it was still on the stand, these ones show little more detail of the plug wire routing etc.

EBAC8F36-B46B-4589-93A8-9C49B979C697.jpeg


FB76CCE9-B416-4AB4-BA37-04BDAF2BC3D3.jpeg


While the one valve cover had the PCV valve in it, I needed to come up with a breather for the other one as I didn’t plan on using any of the original stuff that was ducted into the air filter housing. I picked up a cheap chrome breather from the parts store and sandblasted the coating off it. A quick squirt with some more Corporate blue and a matching grommet, and it doesn’t look too out of place.

On the ignition side of things, the distributor was completely dismantled and rebuilt. The housing was bead blasted back to the original aluminum finish, and an adjustable spring and weight kit was installed. A new HEI module went in a new cap, along with a high output MSD coil. Black MSD 8.5” plug wires were chosen for the stealth look, I got the universal HEI “cut to fit” kit so I could route them how I felt looked the best. NGK “V” groove plugs were chosen and gapped to finish things off.

After refurbishing the original fan, it was bolted to the new clutch assembly. All brackets, pulleys, and other odds and ends also received the blast and paint treatment.
The original exhaust manifolds were retained, partly for the “stock” looking appearance, and partly because I hadn’t acquired a set of headers yet. I do now have a set of full length headers I got from the swap meet earlier this year, they’re on the list of things to get done before spring.

Here’s the last pic of the engine on the stand, now fully ready to be dropped in. Note the Quadrajet now installed, as well as the fuel line and manifolds.

ACECB6DB-0A94-4C65-AFC0-A96CD705CB9A.jpeg


With the new bullet fully assembled and ready to go, the tired old 305/200 combo was unceremoniously yanked out and dumped in the alley for disposal. Note the ugly leaking M/T valve covers, they were on the car when I bought it. Who would bother putting aftermarket valve covers on a wore out old 305???
:confused:

CF465C3E-2F61-40A6-9259-724E3D7C52EA.jpeg


With the old engine and transmission removed, I needed to do some work to the engine bay in preparation for the new ones. After installing a new heater core, everything was thoroughly degreased and cleaned. Then the firewall, wheel wells, and rad support were prepped and masked off for a fresh coat of satin black.

62DEFD2C-28D8-4DCF-804A-9762A60038E9.jpeg


48D593CB-FC99-413B-9042-DA0D20A5853E.jpeg


77794B55-9A38-484B-A853-997E56149E27.jpeg


0BCC625E-547B-43CE-A743-3E6D7C2DEE1D.jpeg


D72029B4-202E-4BDD-BE7D-2EC08B5585E6.jpeg


07C2C6EF-5E09-4A88-B8B9-1169EEB43C8A.jpeg


Once these areas were sprayed and given time to dry, the entire front section of the frame was prepped and given a couple coats of satin black POR 15. I don’t have any pics of this stage, probably because as soon as it was done, I immediately dove into cleaning up the wiring. The ground wires were all cleaned and redone, and the existing looms were tidied up and streamlined as well.

At this point, the engine was finally ready to be dropped into place on new mounts. All the necessary connections were made, naturally with all new parts wherever possible. New heater and radiator hoses, belts, and the original 305 power steering pump was reinstalled with new hoses after a good cleaning.

As a final finishing project, I took the stock air filter housing, and gave it the blast and paint treatment. However not before a little customizing!
;)

I gutted the snorkel of its pin and damper so as not to restrict airflow (but kept the vacuum hose so it still looked functional), then drilled several holes hidden on the backside to help it breathe a bit more yet:

74B64008-B5CA-4C94-83ED-9DBA07B8D4BE.jpeg


4F76E62D-BC7D-4258-95F2-DEDADC3EDD91.jpeg


Topped it off with a new K&N filter...

C34895DD-F986-4758-8297-494B39E55A52.jpeg


...and here’s everything in its new home at last!

BFE1A29F-326C-41D4-9D1F-BF567F4628A7.jpeg


Note the reproduction “Keep your GM Vehicle All GM” and Harrison air conditioning decals for that “authentic” feel...

E2470220-6E87-4A6F-BB10-5BAE861C2481.jpeg


1708D627-284A-4735-9DCD-13B6E5796CC7.jpeg


That’s all for now guys, thanks for following along.

Next time, fire-up and transmission details!

Till then...

D.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 10 users
Oct 14, 2008
8,806
7,746
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Christian, I can honestly say with having two sets of these exact rockers, I do not have any excessive valvetrain noise.
It may perhaps be attributed to your aluminum valve covers, but I would more suspect the rockers need to be adjusted/readjusted. May be something you want to look into. As for saying that all these Comp roller tip rockers are noisy, I feel that’s inaccurate and an unfair generalization. There’s just too many variables between engine types, component selections, oiling characteristics and other things that can cause valvetrain noise.
Just my opinion.[/QUOTE]
Glad your experience has been different and they are very well made. I adjusted them 4 times and a clatter like a sewing machine, not a tick. The Scorpion true roller rocker arms were completely quiet once properly adjusted. Supposedly they make the Harland Sharp rocker arms as well. I am going back to the 1.72 Scorpions, to gain lift and eliminate a tick. It must be from the custom smaller base circle cam. I like your effort to go stock. I almost went that route on the 70 but headers and a RPM intake add a lot on an Olds 350, which hardly anyone runs. The 260 under the hood of the 88 will fool most into thinking it is a 350 and looks fairly stock. Your attention to detail on the little "305" matches the rest of the car, impressive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
G-Body of the Month
Oct 14, 2008
12,156
9,762
113
Gainesville, Fl
Another fine job accomplished by our own Mr. Riddler.
Btw, was it Scott that branded you with that moniker?

The engine looks fantastic...almost like it grew there...

I'm sure if you cleaned up those M/T valve covers someone would buy them.
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users

chevymalibu283

Apprentice
Apr 4, 2013
58
37
18
Thanks Eric, Hutch, Scott and everyone for all your kind words and comments. It truly means a lot and I really do appreciate it.

Despite having your guys’ encouragement, I’ve really been struggling with anything car related lately. I’ve been in a bit of a slump and feeling more than a bit overwhelmed and discouraged with this thing. It feels like I just keep sinking time, money and effort into this, with no real sign of progress or accomplishment. As a result, some depression kinda took hold and I’ve done virtually nothing on it in the last few weeks.

The last few days tho I’ve been feeling a bit better and more like my old self again, so today I thought I’d try venturing out into the garage to see if I could get back on the proverbial horse.

The rust patch panel I had been working on when the feeling of futility hit was still waiting for me to finish it off. When I last updated the thread, I had made the replacement part, and was getting ready to weld it in place.

I punched plug weld holes in the lower flange and underside where it contacted the inner structure, and after positioning and clamping it in place, welded them up:

View attachment 75473

From there, I used my sheetmetal clamps to hold the top portion in alignment. It was fortunate that the hole was where it was, as I was able to unbolt and remove the seatbelt box to get access to the backside.

View attachment 75467

After placing tacks in between the clamps, I removed them and spaced more tack welds evenly across the top:

View attachment 75468

Working from the center out, I began closing up the gaps:

View attachment 75469

And here we go. The patch is now fully welded, ground down and complete.

From this...

View attachment 75474

To this:

View attachment 75471

View attachment 75472

View attachment 75470

What rust hole???
:D

Now that it would appear that I’m back on track again finally, it’s onto the next. I think I’m going to tackle the flush mount marker light on the passenger’s side quarter panel next. (No, I still haven’t done that!)

I’m waiting on a piece I need to properly repair some previously existing damage behind the driver’s side rear wheel before I can complete the metal work on that side, so that seems like a natural fit before I resume with the filler work.
Stay tuned...!!!

Thanks everyone,

D.

Donovan Im sure I have asked before or you may have mentioned it but what are you using to make the
bends in your sheet metal?? Im guessing a brake seeing how crisp and clean your bends are. Patch looks great along with the welding and surface prep. I can also relate with the feelings of lacking motivation to work on a project car, whether its a daily driver or a restoration. I hope youve been able to shake the blues and get back into your groove. Keep on driving hard, your almost to the end. Keep up the good work my man!

kevin
 
  • Like
  • Agree
Reactions: 3 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,155
23,832
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Another fine job accomplished by our own Mr. Riddler.
Btw, was it Scott that branded you with that moniker?

The engine looks fantastic...almost like it grew there...

I'm sure if you cleaned up those M/T valve covers someone would buy them.

Sorry fellas! I got a bit tied up on the weekend and totally forgot to respond to you guys!
:doh:
Thanks for the compliment Jack. As for the moniker, I believe it was either Scott or Jared that pegged me with that (Despite my objections!). I’m thinking it was likely Scott...
;)

The M/T valve covers were totally roached, IMO unrestorable, and not really worth the effort. The aluminum was spalling badly wherever it was exposed, and they really didn’t seal worth a damn. I guess I coulda saved them and made some garage art out of them, but I really didn’t see the point. I’ve got enough projects on the go at this point!
Lol
Thanks for the suggestion, but they’re long gone now.

Donovan Im sure I have asked before or you may have mentioned it but what are you using to make the
bends in your sheet metal?? Im guessing a brake seeing how crisp and clean your bends are. Patch looks great along with the welding and surface prep. I can also relate with the feelings of lacking motivation to work on a project car, whether its a daily driver or a restoration. I hope youve been able to shake the blues and get back into your groove. Keep on driving hard, your almost to the end. Keep up the good work my man!

kevin

Thanks Kevin!
I really appreciate the words of encouragement. So far, so good. I’m slowly getting back into the swing of things, and starting to make progress once again. No sign of the “car blues” returning, so I’ll continue ramping things up here yet again.

As for your observations on the bends, you’re absolutely 100% correct. I have a little 24” box and pan brake that’s perfect for little jobs like that. It just sits on the bench most of the time, but when I need to use it, it sure comes in handy.

Thanks also for the kind words on the patch. For how nasty it looked when I pulled the trim off, I think the end result turned out very well.
I made a little more progress tonight, be sure to check it out in the following update!

D.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,155
23,832
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Made a little more headway tonight...

Got the second (and last) old rusty marker light opening cut out of the passenger’s side quarter panel...

5E83D036-8CB1-4BD2-812C-801861F039EB.jpeg


Then after trimming down my previously made replacement patch and aligning it, started tacking it in:

F2950E0A-7A2A-455B-A49F-661A6141962B.jpeg


The finished product:

3AB5EC2F-E111-4AE3-BF3B-22E5E79F36DB.jpeg


AAF1C132-5881-46B7-A448-86DFEF64FD3B.jpeg


Not bad for a single night’s work me thinks!

On a goofier note, I love Halloween time. You can find things you simply can’t find other times of the year. Over the weekend, I picked up this little guy...

56C8DD15-FA85-4068-87ED-BFA3C2590208.jpeg


He’s plastic, about 4” high, and cost a whopping $3.

Why you ask? Well, because if it was good enough for Bob Falfa and his bitchin’ ‘55 Chevy, it’s good enough for me! (Pic included for reference, check out the rear view mirror)

1D98E08C-999D-426E-8485-44158F60829D.jpeg


And for our younger members, seriously?Google that sh*t!

Our friend and fellow member Scott (InjectedCutty) has already graciously crowned him with his name...

Meet “Olds Skull”
:rofl:

3F558B68-F4FA-44F0-8469-4BCCCF8E3614.jpeg


Thanks for having a lil fun with me everyone! Till next time.

D.
 
  • Like
  • Winner
Reactions: 10 users

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor