!@#$%^ &*()?!

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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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What makes you sure the pump is fine?
it was pumping. I disconnected the lines from the rad and it was pissin good. Glad I had a pan under there. And it wouldn't just suddenly stop working. There'd be some kind of buildup, not just like the flip of a switch... right?
 

oldsmobile joe

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Nov 12, 2015
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like pontiacgp stated, place it in first gear, not drive, but first gear and see what happens. its a diagnostic step to see what all works and what doesn't. does it do into reverse with the normal engagement? what color is the fluid, red, or sh*t brown? what does the fluid smell like, fresh or burnt? double check your throttle cable adjustment.
has the ambient temp dropped since you drove it last? it's possible that the cold weather has caused an internal seal to leak causing this condition.
if the fluid is fresh and red, stop driving it till you get things figured out, or risk doing more damage to it.
joe
 
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Slowpoke

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Dec 23, 2016
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My 350 in my 4.1 was acting the same. Ended up being the vacume hose was leaking behind the carb..
 

timo22

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Sep 10, 2012
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Ok, I'm going back to shimming the converter. If the transmission worked fine and the only change was the engine install, having to slide the converter almost a fingers width seems excessive. I worked at a trans shop fo 7 years rebuilding 904's, 727's , and 350's. When you get a rebuilt converter, it is thinner than a new one. A lot of stock 350 converters have been rebuilt several times . To rebuild them, they cut them in half and reweld them. Every time they cut them , metal is lost. Maybe the converter is not fully engaged with the pump gears. I have had to shim converters before. If the trans worked fine before, it wouldn't be a big deal to slide some washers in between the flywheel and converter before digging into it...timo22
 
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DRIVEN

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Apr 25, 2009
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it was pumping. I disconnected the lines from the rad and it was pissin good. Glad I had a pan under there. And it wouldn't just suddenly stop working. There'd be some kind of buildup, not just like the flip of a switch... right?
The reason I ask is that the pressure has to be there. There is a bypass valve in the pump that can stick (happened on my 200-4r). It's pretty tough to visually tell the difference between 50 and 150 PSI just by looking at an open cooler line. I'm not saying it's thr pump, was just curious how you knew it was fine.
If it slips but moves under throttle that indicates a pressure problem more than a broken hard part problem. Could be a number of things. A line pressure test would tell you a lot. But like it's been mentioned before, dropping the pan is a good place to start.
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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Des Moines, Iowa
Ok, I'm going back to shimming the converter. If the transmission worked fine and the only change was the engine install, having to slide the converter almost a fingers width seems excessive. I worked at a trans shop fo 7 years rebuilding 904's, 727's , and 350's. When you get a rebuilt converter, it is thinner than a new one. A lot of stock 350 converters have been rebuilt several times . To rebuild them, they cut them in half and reweld them. Every time they cut them , metal is lost. Maybe the converter is not fully engaged with the pump gears. I have had to shim converters before. If the trans worked fine before, it wouldn't be a big deal to slide some washers in between the flywheel and converter before digging into it...timo22
This converter hasn't been cut, and seems to be a stock piece. This was behind a Buick 50, and now another Buick 350, both under my ownership. And a finger width is a bit of an exaggeration. It was a 1/4 inch or thereabout.
 

MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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like pontiacgp stated, place it in first gear, not drive, but first gear and see what happens. its a diagnostic step to see what all works and what doesn't. does it do into reverse with the normal engagement? what color is the fluid, red, or sh*t brown? what does the fluid smell like, fresh or burnt? double check your throttle cable adjustment.
has the ambient temp dropped since you drove it last? it's possible that the cold weather has caused an internal seal to leak causing this condition.
if the fluid is fresh and red, stop driving it till you get things figured out, or risk doing more damage to it.
joe
Define normal engagement. If you mean put it in whatever gear and it idles down and jumps into gear, no. It doesn't idle down, it acts like I didn't do anything, but if I give it some throttle it'll start to move but slowly, like it's slipping. Fluid is a dark red. Fluid smelled fine. There is no kickdown cable, never had a problem without it. Manually shifted it when I needed to on a hill or passing, just as it normally would under acceleration. I drove it last a week ago when it was still 40F. It's 40F today and it wouldn't move without a lot of throttle, 1500rpm is when it started to move. usually it will idle itself along on it's own.
 

Wageslave

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Jan 25, 2017
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Dumb question: Did your pan get dented in by the jack during installation? If the clearance between the pan and filter got squeezed down, it could just not be getting enough fluid into the pump to let the pump run to its full potential. That would explain the sluggish everything, all at once.
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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The weird thing is it was perfectly friggin fine just a week ago, now it suddenly isn't. Drove it for 70 miles, parked it, and poof. Nothing.
 
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