Ls motor question

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Qdub24

Royal Smart Person
Sep 6, 2006
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Columbus, GA
The one important factor that I see so many people ignore when chasing the big HP numbers is beefing up the rest of the drivetrain to support it. Reliable, big power costs. Applying said power to the pavement efficiently costs even more.
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
6,057
22,809
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Louisville, KY
I definitely try to do my research, especially when it comes to building a new motor. Just looking for some more info and a good place to start so I can begin researching on a specific motor And start gathering parts over winter. I don’t like to do things twice, I’m 26 i already did that the first time I restored this car!
I hear ya man. I'm 34 now, but bought my Cutlass at 17 and it has been through a whirlwind of changes over the years.
In regards to either supercharging or going turbo, it's more of a preference thing IMO.
With a blower, there is no lag as the boost comes immediately when stomping the loud pedal. Where as with turbo's there can be boost lag if the turbo(s) are too big to spool off idle.
Another thing to consider is going with a blower you HAVE to pin the crank. There is no balancer keyway on the crank snout of LS engines. Failure to do so will cause the balancer to spin on the crank from the added tension/force the supercharger puts on it.
 
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mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
518
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columbus, ohio
Something to be careful about with the aluminum block LS motors is that they usually can only be rebored .010, plus the aluminum blocks flex and distort more under load than iron blocks. Its why trucks got iron blocks.

500 hp is a lot of stress on the g body structure and you will need frame and body reinforcing at 400 hp or above. Make sure your body mounts are good and no rust damage.
I had my body mounts replace about 500 miles ago with rubber mounts, I wish I would have went poly.
I have adjustable uppers and lower on the rear, big front sway bar, with Grand Prix bar and jounce bars. I have Grand National rear seat bracing with a rear sway bar and the rear frame horns tied. I also have fender to core support bars and firewall to core support bars. My car is very solid and handles great. I also have radiator cross bars, aftermarket transmission crossmember.

Do you think I will still need extra chassis reinforcement?
 

L92 OLDS

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 30, 2012
2,872
3,050
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West Michigan
I had my body mounts replace about 500 miles ago with rubber mounts, I wish I would have went poly.
I have adjustable uppers and lower on the rear, big front sway bar, with Grand Prix bar and jounce bars. I have Grand National rear seat bracing with a rear sway bar and the rear frame horns tied. I also have fender to core support bars and firewall to core support bars. My car is very solid and handles great. I also have radiator cross bars, aftermarket transmission crossmember.

Do you think I will still need extra chassis reinforcement?

I think you'll be fine with that set up. Good body mounts are usually the most often overlooked. The GN bracing and shock tower bar also make a big difference.
 
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mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
518
161
43
columbus, ohio
The one important factor that I see so many people ignore when chasing the big HP numbers is beefing up the rest of the drivetrain to support it. Reliable, big power costs. Applying said power to the pavement efficiently costs even more.
Yeah I know my turbo 350 won’t hold up to long. I have about $1500 in my rear end and I’m hoping that that holds up once I add new moser 28 spline axels. Fully adjustable suspension and I have a set of mickey Thompson drag radials on the rear. I plan on spending around 1500-2k on a transmission.
 

mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
518
161
43
columbus, ohio
The one important factor that I see so many people ignore when chasing the big HP numbers is beefing up the rest of the drivetrain to support it. Reliable, big power costs. Applying said power to the pavement efficiently costs even more.
Yeah I know my turbo 350 won’t hold up to long. I have about $1500 in my rear end and I’m hoping that that holds up once I add new moser 28 spline axels. Fully adjustable suspension and I have a set of mickey Thompson drag radials on the rear. I plan on spending around 1500-2k on a transmission.
I think you'll be fine with that set up. Good body mounts are usually the most often overlooked. The GN bracing and shock tower bar also makes a big difference.
Yeah I custom fabbed up a grand national brace and am about to place my order for a rear shock tower brace from umi. You think my chassis should be able to support the power with all of those bolt ons? Frame is in good shape too
 

Wraith

Royal Smart Person
Jan 13, 2013
1,602
4,764
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DFW, TX
LSA supercharger and this:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/hpe-hp93/overview/

Should have no problems hitting your power goals and you start with a fresh engine. You could go stock computer or go with Megasquirt since you have a TH350. All accessories would be cheap to pick up on Craigslist. I'm a fan of the Canton baffled oil pan and Holley engine/trans mounts.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,987
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Spring, Texas
If you are going forced induction go with the sturdier truck (cast iron) block.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
8,976
27,522
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Saskatchewan, Truckistan
I have:

A Procharged LS2 (6.0L);
A heads/cam/intake/nitrous LS1 (5.7L); and
A (soon to be) twin turbo 4.8L.

Only two of those combos will make 500+hp at the wheels all day everyday. The other one just sounds really cool and scoots okay - better when you push the button.

The thing is you can do as much with your 355 Gen I SBC as you can with the LS. If you spent the money on a good valvetrain, heads, and intake you could have a very stout engine (as stout as an equal max effort LS 5.7L) without needing a bunch of swap parts. This approach has its advantages.

That said, I sold off my old SBC stuff for a reason. The LS-family of engines is just that good.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,708
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12,215
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Upstate NY
I had my body mounts replace about 500 miles ago with rubber mounts, I wish I would have went poly.
I have adjustable uppers and lower on the rear, big front sway bar, with Grand Prix bar and jounce bars. I have Grand National rear seat bracing with a rear sway bar and the rear frame horns tied. I also have fender to core support bars and firewall to core support bars. My car is very solid and handles great. I also have radiator cross bars, aftermarket transmission crossmember.

Do you think I will still need extra chassis reinforcement?

Yes - forward control arm locations

[
 
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