3310

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denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
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I agree that there are some on the market that are junk. The good ones are not that expensive and can pay you back with less time spent guessing, better performance and better gas mileage. The last quadrajet I rebuilt before installing an AEM a/f worked great but the a/f gauge told me it was running a little rich and it was a snap to get it exactly they way I wanted it.
hi pontiacgp. i got mine about 20 years ago and was pretty pricey back then. i watch it for consistency i like it
 
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vanrah

G-Body Guru
Apr 16, 2013
879
1,189
93
Near Afton, Wisconsin
Greetings Denny & all; Wow that is one fine engine package you have. It reminds me of the early Lt-1's GM produced back in 70-71. And that's the cam that it was shipped with? Very nice! So we're talking about a starting point tune for a 3310 750 V with choke tower that you have converted to 4 corner idler. First lets double check that you have blocked the transfer passages in the base from the primary idle circuit. And have drilled the main body to activate the secondary idle circuit. I may divide this into three messages, I'm long winded. So the idle mixture A/F ratio is controlled by the air bleed (outer positions main body) & idle feed restrictors (metering blks). This mixture (A/F) is in the Idle well & fixed with stock Holley parts. But this is the same mixture that feeds the transfer slots that are so important to off idle performance. So every time you turn the mixture needles (screws) in the metering blocks you are adding or reducing fuel & air. I just learned this tip in recent years. For best off idle performance "set primary & secondary throttle blades to uncover only .020" of the transfer slots". Adjust both primary & secondary blade (speed) screws a little at a time. If ya have to for more idle speed open the secondary blades a bit more. Do not drill the blades, a mistake we have all made & some today still make this mistake. Next lets talk about secondary PV (Power valve). In big heavy vehicles that present little "G" force (sloshing of fuel) they are your friend, but for us hot rod types they present night mares as fuel is pulled away from them (PV) during hard Go pedal pressures. PLUG IT. And when you do you have to compensate for reduced fuel to the boosters by using larger jets in the secondary metering blocks. Early books by Holley (yes I have one) recommend 6 to 8 jet sizes larger! Later books call for 10 to 12 Jet sizes larger. This difference is really determined by the PVCR holes where the PV screw in. Many Holley's have .055" holes in this position. These holes flow fuel when PV opens adding to the main jets fuel supply to the boosters. So the primary jets function is to supply the correct amount of fuel when cursing (off the transfer slots) before the PV opens for full ON. If your brain isn't full yet keep in mind that the fuel from the jets & PVCR holes is aerated by the main (hi speed) air bleeds (inner position main body) & mixed in the main well (Emulsifier tube) before it is suppled to the boosters. Secondary side works the same way of course. Can you measure the PVCR holes for me as I use math ( sq. in. of area) to GUESS what jets to use for a starting point. Fine tune using the wide band A/f gage or your nose & eyes. As for PV section start with about 1/2 of your idle vacuum. Like if you idle at 14" try a 7, 13" try a 6.5? Again as time passes the wide band will help dial that in better. And last I'll Guess jet sizes after you supply me with PVCR diameter. Good Luck, Ole' Bob.
Ps: Buy a Quick fuel secondary diaphragm cover (adjustable).
 

denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
116
43
Greetings Denny & all; Wow that is one fine engine package you have. It reminds me of the early Lt-1's GM produced back in 70-71. And that's the cam that it was shipped with? Very nice! So we're talking about a starting point tune for a 3310 750 V with choke tower that you have converted to 4 corner idler. First lets double check that you have blocked the transfer passages in the base from the primary idle circuit. And have drilled the main body to activate the secondary idle circuit. I may divide this into three messages, I'm long winded. So the idle mixture A/F ratio is controlled by the air bleed (outer positions main body) & idle feed restrictors (metering blks). This mixture (A/F) is in the Idle well & fixed with stock Holley parts. But this is the same mixture that feeds the transfer slots that are so important to off idle performance. So every time you turn the mixture needles (screws) in the metering blocks you are adding or reducing fuel & air. I just learned this tip in recent years. For best off idle performance "set primary & secondary throttle blades to uncover only .020" of the transfer slots". Adjust both primary & secondary blade (speed) screws a little at a time. If ya have to for more idle speed open the secondary blades a bit more. Do not drill the blades, a mistake we have all made & some today still make this mistake. Next lets talk about secondary PV (Power valve). In big heavy vehicles that present little "G" force (sloshing of fuel) they are your friend, but for us hot rod types they present night mares as fuel is pulled away from them (PV) during hard Go pedal pressures. PLUG IT. And when you do you have to compensate for reduced fuel to the boosters by using larger jets in the secondary metering blocks. Early books by Holley (yes I have one) recommend 6 to 8 jet sizes larger! Later books call for 10 to 12 Jet sizes larger. This difference is really determined by the PVCR holes where the PV screw in. Many Holley's have .055" holes in this position. These holes flow fuel when PV opens adding to the main jets fuel supply to the boosters. So the primary jets function is to supply the correct amount of fuel when cursing (off the transfer slots) before the PV opens for full ON. If your brain isn't full yet keep in mind that the fuel from the jets & PVCR holes is aerated by the main (hi speed) air bleeds (inner position main body) & mixed in the main well (Emulsifier tube) before it is suppled to the boosters. Secondary side works the same way of course. Can you measure the PVCR holes for me as I use math ( sq. in. of area) to GUESS what jets to use for a starting point. Fine tune using the wide band A/f gage or your nose & eyes. As for PV section start with about 1/2 of your idle vacuum. Like if you idle at 14" try a 7, 13" try a 6.5? Again as time passes the wide band will help dial that in better. And last I'll Guess jet sizes after you supply me with PVCR diameter. Good Luck, Ole' Bob.
Ps: Buy a Quick fuel secondary diaphragm cover (adjustable).
vanrah i'm sorry if i misled you but i guess i'm rambling too much about the 3310's i had in the garage but the one i'll be using this time is the regular 3310 vac. sec. with the stock metering plate. i have a couple with blocks in the rear and 4 corner idle but i want to use this very clean plate equipped 3310. i have spare plates which i can richen up or lean out and just as easy to change jets as a block. saw where they have plates with screw in jets, looks about 40.00 bucks.
 

denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
116
43
vanrah i'm sorry if i misled you but i guess i'm rambling too much about the 3310's i had in the garage but the one i'll be using this time is the regular 3310 vac. sec. with the stock metering plate. i have a couple with blocks in the rear and 4 corner idle but i want to use this very clean plate equipped 3310. i have spare plates which i can richen up or lean out and just as easy to change jets as a block. saw where they have plates with screw in jets, looks about 40.00 bucks.
i have a quick change dia. cover on it already and the choke is removed but the tower is still intact.
 

denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
116
43
Greetings Denny & all; Wow that is one fine engine package you have. It reminds me of the early Lt-1's GM produced back in 70-71. And that's the cam that it was shipped with? Very nice! So we're talking about a starting point tune for a 3310 750 V with choke tower that you have converted to 4 corner idler. First lets double check that you have blocked the transfer passages in the base from the primary idle circuit. And have drilled the main body to activate the secondary idle circuit. I may divide this into three messages, I'm long winded. So the idle mixture A/F ratio is controlled by the air bleed (outer positions main body) & idle feed restrictors (metering blks). This mixture (A/F) is in the Idle well & fixed with stock Holley parts. But this is the same mixture that feeds the transfer slots that are so important to off idle performance. So every time you turn the mixture needles (screws) in the metering blocks you are adding or reducing fuel & air. I just learned this tip in recent years. For best off idle performance "set primary & secondary throttle blades to uncover only .020" of the transfer slots". Adjust both primary & secondary blade (speed) screws a little at a time. If ya have to for more idle speed open the secondary blades a bit more. Do not drill the blades, a mistake we have all made & some today still make this mistake. Next lets talk about secondary PV (Power valve). In big heavy vehicles that present little "G" force (sloshing of fuel) they are your friend, but for us hot rod types they present night mares as fuel is pulled away from them (PV) during hard Go pedal pressures. PLUG IT. And when you do you have to compensate for reduced fuel to the boosters by using larger jets in the secondary metering blocks. Early books by Holley (yes I have one) recommend 6 to 8 jet sizes larger! Later books call for 10 to 12 Jet sizes larger. This difference is really determined by the PVCR holes where the PV screw in. Many Holley's have .055" holes in this position. These holes flow fuel when PV opens adding to the main jets fuel supply to the boosters. So the primary jets function is to supply the correct amount of fuel when cursing (off the transfer slots) before the PV opens for full ON. If your brain isn't full yet keep in mind that the fuel from the jets & PVCR holes is aerated by the main (hi speed) air bleeds (inner position main body) & mixed in the main well (Emulsifier tube) before it is suppled to the boosters. Secondary side works the same way of course. Can you measure the PVCR holes for me as I use math ( sq. in. of area) to GUESS what jets to use for a starting point. Fine tune using the wide band A/f gage or your nose & eyes. As for PV section start with about 1/2 of your idle vacuum. Like if you idle at 14" try a 7, 13" try a 6.5? Again as time passes the wide band will help dial that in better. And last I'll Guess jet sizes after you supply me with PVCR diameter. Good Luck, Ole' Bob.
Ps: Buy a Quick fuel secondary diaphragm cover (adjustable).
i'm gonna bring my 3310 in beside the computer so it will be a little easier to check things .
 

denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
116
43
Greetings Denny & all; Wow that is one fine engine package you have. It reminds me of the early Lt-1's GM produced back in 70-71. And that's the cam that it was shipped with? Very nice! So we're talking about a starting point tune for a 3310 750 V with choke tower that you have converted to 4 corner idler. First lets double check that you have blocked the transfer passages in the base from the primary idle circuit. And have drilled the main body to activate the secondary idle circuit. I may divide this into three messages, I'm long winded. So the idle mixture A/F ratio is controlled by the air bleed (outer positions main body) & idle feed restrictors (metering blks). This mixture (A/F) is in the Idle well & fixed with stock Holley parts. But this is the same mixture that feeds the transfer slots that are so important to off idle performance. So every time you turn the mixture needles (screws) in the metering blocks you are adding or reducing fuel & air. I just learned this tip in recent years. For best off idle performance "set primary & secondary throttle blades to uncover only .020" of the transfer slots". Adjust both primary & secondary blade (speed) screws a little at a time. If ya have to for more idle speed open the secondary blades a bit more. Do not drill the blades, a mistake we have all made & some today still make this mistake. Next lets talk about secondary PV (Power valve). In big heavy vehicles that present little "G" force (sloshing of fuel) they are your friend, but for us hot rod types they present night mares as fuel is pulled away from them (PV) during hard Go pedal pressures. PLUG IT. And when you do you have to compensate for reduced fuel to the boosters by using larger jets in the secondary metering blocks. Early books by Holley (yes I have one) recommend 6 to 8 jet sizes larger! Later books call for 10 to 12 Jet sizes larger. This difference is really determined by the PVCR holes where the PV screw in. Many Holley's have .055" holes in this position. These holes flow fuel when PV opens adding to the main jets fuel supply to the boosters. So the primary jets function is to supply the correct amount of fuel when cursing (off the transfer slots) before the PV opens for full ON. If your brain isn't full yet keep in mind that the fuel from the jets & PVCR holes is aerated by the main (hi speed) air bleeds (inner position main body) & mixed in the main well (Emulsifier tube) before it is suppled to the boosters. Secondary side works the same way of course. Can you measure the PVCR holes for me as I use math ( sq. in. of area) to GUESS what jets to use for a starting point. Fine tune using the wide band A/f gage or your nose & eyes. As for PV section start with about 1/2 of your idle vacuum. Like if you idle at 14" try a 7, 13" try a 6.5? Again as time passes the wide band will help dial that in better. And last I'll Guess jet sizes after you supply me with PVCR diameter. Good Luck, Ole' Bob.
Ps: Buy a Quick fuel secondary diaphragm cover (adjustable).
you still there Bob? got my 3310 ready.
 

vanrah

G-Body Guru
Apr 16, 2013
879
1,189
93
Near Afton, Wisconsin
Hi Denny & all; Have ya measured the PVCR hole yet. As I'm still waiting for that info? I except them to be .055"? Please don't except me to be on the site much until next week. I've been real sick for the last 3 weeks so I'm movin' real slow. And this Saturday I'm returning my Grand Daughter to here parents, 15 hours of drivin'. Friday I'll be packin' the UTE. But will be more than happy to concentrate on your carb early next week. So get it dissembled. Please take a few pictures of the bottom of the base (throttle-body plate) where the blades meet the bores. So how many 3310's do you have at this time? If ya got more than one I'd like to see some pictures of the main body's. Where the rear bowl- metering block attach down low where near the base. Take care Ole' Bob.
 

denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
116
43
Hi Denny & all; Have ya measured the PVCR hole yet. As I'm still waiting for that info? I except them to be .055"? Please don't except me to be on the site much until next week. I've been real sick for the last 3 weeks so I'm movin' real slow. And this Saturday I'm returning my Grand Daughter to here parents, 15 hours of drivin'. Friday I'll be packin' the UTE. But will be more than happy to concentrate on your carb early next week. So get it dissembled. Please take a few pictures of the bottom of the base (throttle-body plate) where the blades meet the bores. So how many 3310's do you have at this time? If ya got more than one I'd like to see some pictures of the main body's. Where the rear bowl- metering block attach down low where near the base. Take care Ole' Bob.
hi Bob. by all means take care of yourself and family stuff. i'll get all my 3310 bodies and get some pics although i'm having trouble with sending pics i'll try to get some help on that. i think i saw about three or four bodies out there. i'm going to finish this year with my edel. q-jet and thinking next season i'll test these 3310's with the performer rpm intake. right now i have the performer. i'm glad this currant set up runs very good so the holley will have a good set up to beat. take care, Denny.
 

vanrah

G-Body Guru
Apr 16, 2013
879
1,189
93
Near Afton, Wisconsin
Good Morning Denny; Well things are some what back to normal? I did a little research last night for ya. For example, Google a 1970 Lt-1 350" 360 HP Holley carb or a DZ 302" 290 HP 1968 Holley carb. And ask Google for specs. You will have more to read than you have time. From the pictures I see it looks like you did the 4 corner conversion correctly, but I would replace the old epoxy with solder wire dropped into some new epoxy, not melted. GENTLY hammered flat with the top surface of base (throttle body). Now the nitty gritty, my subjective opinion as a starting point! Primary side PV 8 or 85 & keep in mind that when the PV opens you will be flowing fuel threw the .055" openings (.0024 Sq In each). Jets #70's (.0042 Sq In ea), so at part throttle only the Primary jets flow & at full ON both the PVRC & jets flow equaling .0066 Sq In. Now the secondary side, PLUG the PV & try #79 (.0065 Sq In ea) or #80 ((.0068 Sq In ea). Being that the secondary side flows more air than the primary side I would be inclined to try the #80's first? Also the secondary spring, I would start with the weakest (lightest) & if you have a flat spot move up to the next heaver spring. As for nozzle (acc pump squinter) some where between a 25 & 28. Keep in mind that the spring & nozzle work as a team. Squinter cam in #2 position. Don't forget to adjust the primary throttle blades so only 020" of the transfer slots are uncovered. Use the secondary stop to fine tune the idle speed. And last replace those drilled out blades, they are not your friend! If this doesn't work out for you feel free to continue picking my brain for finer tuning. Good Luck Ole' Bob.
 

denny

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2017
279
116
43
Good Morning Denny; Well things are some what back to normal? I did a little research last night for ya. For example, Google a 1970 Lt-1 350" 360 HP Holley carb or a DZ 302" 290 HP 1968 Holley carb. And ask Google for specs. You will have more to read than you have time. From the pictures I see it looks like you did the 4 corner conversion correctly, but I would replace the old epoxy with solder wire dropped into some new epoxy, not melted. GENTLY hammered flat with the top surface of base (throttle body). Now the nitty gritty, my subjective opinion as a starting point! Primary side PV 8 or 85 & keep in mind that when the PV opens you will be flowing fuel threw the .055" openings (.0024 Sq In each). Jets #70's (.0042 Sq In ea), so at part throttle only the Primary jets flow & at full ON both the PVRC & jets flow equaling .0066 Sq In. Now the secondary side, PLUG the PV & try #79 (.0065 Sq In ea) or #80 ((.0068 Sq In ea). Being that the secondary side flows more air than the primary side I would be inclined to try the #80's first? Also the secondary spring, I would start with the weakest (lightest) & if you have a flat spot move up to the next heaver spring. As for nozzle (acc pump squinter) some where between a 25 & 28. Keep in mind that the spring & nozzle work as a team. Squinter cam in #2 position. Don't forget to adjust the primary throttle blades so only 020" of the transfer slots are uncovered. Use the secondary stop to fine tune the idle speed. And last replace those drilled out blades, they are not your friend! If this doesn't work out for you feel free to continue picking my brain for finer tuning. Good Luck Ole' Bob.
thanks for the research Bob. that sounds like a good start. thanks for catching the holes in the blades,i'll take care of them. i have a batch of gaskets for the 3310 and something in the new 5 pack does not jive with the main body to the throttle plate. i'll get a pic and send both gaskets with their place on the main body and compare them. thanks again Denny
 
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