Best axle swap

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JohnnyUtah1

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 17, 2018
19
15
3
One of these days I'm going to sit down and write down all the things that I wish my present self could tell my new Gbody owner self 10 years ago.

To the OP; If instant gratification is a factor, I'd probably suggest picking up another 7.5 with either 3.42s or 3.73s. Then I'd swap it in and hang on to the original for a just-in-case spare. There are a few reasons I am suggesting this. First, it's a 100% direct swap. Second, it's probably going to be cheaper than regearing your current rearend. Third, it's the least expensive way to audition a ratio. If you find you don't like it, sell it and try a different one. Fourth, going from 2.4Xs to 3.42s feels like you added 100hp under the hood. And fifth, it'll make it more fun while you're deciding what you really want to do with the project. And when you're done, you should be able to sell that 7.5 for what you paid for it when you install your 8.5/8.8/12bolt/9".
7.5s will last a good long time if you don't mercilessly beat on them. They will not tolerate a gravel to asphalt burnout.

I found a 7.5 gm 10 bolt with 3.73s but it doesn’t seem to have the UCA mounts

He doesn’t know what it came out of but it should still work with one of maguvers conversion kits right?
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,590
12,612
113
Michigan
I would also consider just taking your car to a ring and pinion shop and see what they charge to install a posi and a gear and later on if you decide to add big power you can get a stronger rear, I did this with the 7.5 in my Monte adding an Auburn carrier and a 373 gear and it held up to my 496 BBC since it never hooked and later I sold the complete rear for what I had put into it and replaced it with a 9".
 
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lilbowtie

Comic Book Super Hero
Jan 7, 2006
3,460
3,965
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Canton Mi
She will !! Hey Utah 69 Hurst gave you some good advice, you need to sit down and decide whay goals you want to achieve and there will be plenty advice on the fourm as to how to get there. My car was built on a budget or you you can build something like 565 and others have. Good luck on your quest, you might want to gather parts and keep yours running till your ready.

thumbnail (1).jpg
 
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Macguyver

SOUTHSIDE MACHINE PERFORMANCE
GBodyForum Sponsor
Mar 21, 2017
292
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Just because l




What year Ford Explorer should I be looking for?

Trying to explore all my options

Sorry for the late reply Will be getting on my computer soon to reply to everyone and ask some more questions

This forums really messy on my phone

1991-2003 Explorer axles work. The later of those years were disc brake. Anything after that was IRS.

https://southsidemachineperformance.com/products/explorer-88-swap-kit

This control arm kit from SSM Performance is designed to bolt an Ford Explorer rear end into GM G-Body, A-Body cars; this includes Chevelle, GTO, Monte Carlo, Malibu, El Camino, Regal, Grand National, Grand Prix and Cutlass and many others. These upper control arms are built at the correct angle and length to attach to the the truss and chassis. The relocation bracket kit will allow for proper instant (geometry) changes. The adjustable lower control arms allow you to center rear.​

(Found in Ford Explorer)​

No modification of the 8.8 is needed.​

Wheel fitment is 8" with 4.5" BS and a 10" with 5.5" BS.​

  • Ring gear measures 8.8".
  • 31 Spline axle shafts with a 1.32" diameter
  • Ratios: 2.26, 2.47, 2.73, 3.08, 3.27, 3.31, 3.45, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10 & 4.56, 5.14

These are stronger than the Mustang 8.8 with 28 spline​


THIS KIT IS FOR THE PERSON WHO DOESN'T WANT TO SPEND​

$1900 OR MORE ON A 9" REAR-END.​


Our extreme duty control arms allow for pinion angle adjustment for reduced vibration and increased traction. Our exclusive Polyurethane bushings offer controlled positioning during suspension travel which improves traction and rear suspension efficiency. This item is a must for any high horsepower​

Benefits: Pinion angle adjustments for improved traction and reduced wheel hop. Heavy duty construction for long lasting durability on the street or track. Complete ready to bolt-in and most kits includes polyurethane rear end housing bushings.​



  • 2, Adjustable lower arms
  • 2, Double Adjustable upper arms
  • 2, Upper control arm mounts
  • 2, 4 hole lower adjustable control arm mounts
  • 2, coil spring pads
  • 1, axle truss
  • Ford 8.8 NOT included


The control arm kit is all bolt on. The simple fabrication to the rear-end obviously will require welding.


These are truly overkill! All grade 8 hardware is included. Made in USA!​

All parts are custom built in house. Indianapolis Indiana​

Please give us a call before your purchase to make sure this is the right kit for you. We have several kits available for different types of cars.​


Features and Benefits:​

Improves Traction​

Reduces Wheel Hop​

Improves Handling And Stability​

Stronger Than Stock Arms​

Features TIG-welded Construction​

Pinion angle adjustment​

Sway Bar Ready​
 
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Macguyver

SOUTHSIDE MACHINE PERFORMANCE
GBodyForum Sponsor
Mar 21, 2017
292
458
63
I found a 7.5 gm 10 bolt with 3.73s but it doesn’t seem to have the UCA mounts

He doesn’t know what it came out of but it should still work with one of maguvers conversion kits right?
If it doesn't have the upper mounts it would be an S-10. (Those are a bit narrow for a g body 54-1/2").
But yes, we have a truss kit for that too.
 

JohnnyUtah1

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 17, 2018
19
15
3
1991-2003 Explorer axles work. The later of those years were disc brake. Anything after that was IRS.

https://southsidemachineperformance.com/products/explorer-88-swap-kit

This control arm kit from SSM Performance is designed to bolt an Ford Explorer rear end into GM G-Body, A-Body cars; this includes Chevelle, GTO, Monte Carlo, Malibu, El Camino, Regal, Grand National, Grand Prix and Cutlass and many others. These upper control arms are built at the correct angle and length to attach to the the truss and chassis. The relocation bracket kit will allow for proper instant (geometry) changes. The adjustable lower control arms allow you to center rear.​

(Found in Ford Explorer)​

No modification of the 8.8 is needed.​

Wheel fitment is 8" with 4.5" BS and a 10" with 5.5" BS.​

  • Ring gear measures 8.8".
  • 31 Spline axle shafts with a 1.32" diameter
  • Ratios: 2.26, 2.47, 2.73, 3.08, 3.27, 3.31, 3.45, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10 & 4.56, 5.14

These are stronger than the Mustang 8.8 with 28 spline​


THIS KIT IS FOR THE PERSON WHO DOESN'T WANT TO SPEND​

$1900 OR MORE ON A 9" REAR-END.​


Our extreme duty control arms allow for pinion angle adjustment for reduced vibration and increased traction. Our exclusive Polyurethane bushings offer controlled positioning during suspension travel which improves traction and rear suspension efficiency. This item is a must for any high horsepower​

Benefits: Pinion angle adjustments for improved traction and reduced wheel hop. Heavy duty construction for long lasting durability on the street or track. Complete ready to bolt-in and most kits includes polyurethane rear end housing bushings.​



  • 2, Adjustable lower arms
  • 2, Double Adjustable upper arms
  • 2, Upper control arm mounts
  • 2, 4 hole lower adjustable control arm mounts
  • 2, coil spring pads
  • 1, axle truss
  • Ford 8.8 NOT included


The control arm kit is all bolt on. The simple fabrication to the rear-end obviously will require welding.


These are truly overkill! All grade 8 hardware is included. Made in USA!​

All parts are custom built in house. Indianapolis Indiana​

Please give us a call before your purchase to make sure this is the right kit for you. We have several kits available for different types of cars.​


Features and Benefits:​

Improves Traction​

Reduces Wheel Hop​

Improves Handling And Stability​

Stronger Than Stock Arms​

Features TIG-welded Construction​

Pinion angle adjustment​

Sway Bar Ready​

I read somewhere else that I would have to shorten the drive shaft and the driver side axle tube Is this not true?
 

454GrandPrix

Master Mechanic
Jul 27, 2016
429
818
93
Lehi, Utah
I read somewhere else that I would have to shorten the drive shaft and the driver side axle tube Is this not true?

I had heard that, also... which is why I installed an 8.8 axle out of a Fox-body Mustang. It's the correct width, plus its housing has 'ears' for upper control arms similar to our stock axles. I used the Trick Chassis kit, which made installation very straightforward.
 
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JohnnyUtah1

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 17, 2018
19
15
3
I had heard that, also... which is why I installed an 8.8 axle out of a Fox-body Mustang. It's the correct width, plus its housing has 'ears' for upper control arms similar to our stock axles. I used the Trick Chassis kit, which made installation very straightforward.

What year mustang should I look for

Still not sure what route I’m going just trying to do as much research as I can between work
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,659
1
12,059
113
Upstate NY
I read somewhere else that I would have to shorten the drive shaft and the driver side axle tube Is this not true?

You will definitely need to have some driveshaft work done, but you'll need that for any swap. But the link by Macguyver is a smoking deal IMO. The Exploder 8.8 rears are a cheap and readily available. Rebuilding a Ford stock Trac Lock and installing a new bearing kit is a piece of cake. This is by far the cheapest and easiest way out if you can weld on the upper bracket and setup the rear end geometry. Neither is remotely difficult IMHO. But this should be able to be done for well under $1000.
 
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