Power Antenna replacement - How to
- Thread starter Texas82GP
- Start date
Just a little info someone might find helpful.
1982 shows 22048606 but from about '95 on, it shifted to the G-body (and some others) longtime standard of 22048604 for basically all the different G-body early antenna. Then that was replaced in 2000. New p/n is 88891017. For everything.
I think there was about 435 different antenna part numbers from 1980-up. And now they have seemingly all converged to ONE.
22048583 is the Tube/antenna/cable assembly in its entirety. It's basically all the business end stuff without the motor. It's a quick way to fix one if you have one. They're getting STUPID money (150 and up) for them now if you can find one. You can probably get the entire antenna/motor assembly for what they're asking for the tube. Last one I bought was from Amazon a few years ago for like $35 or something like that.
If you need a lower bracket, that's 22038589 (Cutlass). They are sometimes welded on original masts. You can get them off and drill/tap for short screws to remount. But it's sometimes a PITA.
If you just need the top rod/cable you would need p/n 19151297 (discontinued, but I think there are repros)
25512547 is the part number for the chrome nut. Pricey if you can find a GM one, although they do have Chinesium repros out now I think. I think some cars came with black ones, not sure. Again, I deal 99.5% with Cutlass. Depending on the car, the spacer/bezel (black plastic under the nut) varies on p/n. Cutlass is 22508025. Monte is 14022069. Regal is 25526335. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE LIKE SOME STUPID MOFOS OUT THERE WANT YOU TO BELIEVE. But there are repros I know of the Regal and Cutlass ones.
1982 shows 22048606 but from about '95 on, it shifted to the G-body (and some others) longtime standard of 22048604 for basically all the different G-body early antenna. Then that was replaced in 2000. New p/n is 88891017. For everything.
I think there was about 435 different antenna part numbers from 1980-up. And now they have seemingly all converged to ONE.
22048583 is the Tube/antenna/cable assembly in its entirety. It's basically all the business end stuff without the motor. It's a quick way to fix one if you have one. They're getting STUPID money (150 and up) for them now if you can find one. You can probably get the entire antenna/motor assembly for what they're asking for the tube. Last one I bought was from Amazon a few years ago for like $35 or something like that.
If you need a lower bracket, that's 22038589 (Cutlass). They are sometimes welded on original masts. You can get them off and drill/tap for short screws to remount. But it's sometimes a PITA.
If you just need the top rod/cable you would need p/n 19151297 (discontinued, but I think there are repros)
25512547 is the part number for the chrome nut. Pricey if you can find a GM one, although they do have Chinesium repros out now I think. I think some cars came with black ones, not sure. Again, I deal 99.5% with Cutlass. Depending on the car, the spacer/bezel (black plastic under the nut) varies on p/n. Cutlass is 22508025. Monte is 14022069. Regal is 25526335. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE LIKE SOME STUPID MOFOS OUT THERE WANT YOU TO BELIEVE. But there are repros I know of the Regal and Cutlass ones.
Can anyone tell me how the mounting bracket goes back on my 86's antenna? I didn't take a picture when I took it off and now I'm trying to get it back on and can't get it to line-up with any of the holes. UGH!
FYI - GBody Parts www.gbodyparts.com has replacement nuts in chrome and black for $25.
FYI - GBody Parts www.gbodyparts.com has replacement nuts in chrome and black for $25.
Could you please help me get in touch with this guy, I'm from the Cleveland area and need this done. Thanks!
Let me ask around. He was an old timer YEARS ago.... he's likely retired by now.... or even worse.
Hell if this antenna guru is in the Cleveland area count me in too! I've been putting off doing mine because I just don't have to time and I find it to be a PITA!
The risk is if you have nice paint you care about/Popeye forearms/Gorilla monster hands or some combination thereof. Otherwise, it's not horrible. The first time I ever did one on an Olds I took the entire friggin' outer fender off. Then figured out I didn't have to go that far. Doesn't get worse than that. That specialty tool spanner wrench for the antenna nut isn't absolutely necessary, but it makes it a whole lot easier. I have one of those wrenches...somewhere. Nice to have if you need to do a job like this.
As shown in the writeup, using several feet of masking tape can save the paint from unintentional scrapes and getting the lower part of the outer fender loose is critical. It's pretty flimsy/flexible though. But if you have Popeye arms/Monster hands- well, you probably would be better to farm it out. Clearances are tight if you don't remove the entire outer fender.
I plan on doing my 87's cable replacement pretty soon, so I may make a "how-to" for Cutlass. It's 99.9% the same as the GP, although you won't be getting the inner fender liner out. I got extra new complete assemblies I could simply swap in to make it much easier, but the motor's fine. It's just the cable broke. When I do it, I'll go into how to replace the cable as well. A lot of people put bolts back in the casing, which works, but you can rivet them back together if you have a riveter tool and the correct size rivets.
As shown in the writeup, using several feet of masking tape can save the paint from unintentional scrapes and getting the lower part of the outer fender loose is critical. It's pretty flimsy/flexible though. But if you have Popeye arms/Monster hands- well, you probably would be better to farm it out. Clearances are tight if you don't remove the entire outer fender.
I plan on doing my 87's cable replacement pretty soon, so I may make a "how-to" for Cutlass. It's 99.9% the same as the GP, although you won't be getting the inner fender liner out. I got extra new complete assemblies I could simply swap in to make it much easier, but the motor's fine. It's just the cable broke. When I do it, I'll go into how to replace the cable as well. A lot of people put bolts back in the casing, which works, but you can rivet them back together if you have a riveter tool and the correct size rivets.
Yeah I have big hands with a perfect black og paint job on my 84 cutlass with only 35k miles that is clean as can be so I want to sub out the work.
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