Holley VS. Edelbrock debacle

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83MonteCarloSS

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Oct 5, 2015
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Without a doubt this will go off the rails fast, just like the Holley 🤪

Although the Edelbrock worked, it didn’t work well. Even after running the bowls empty (seemingly) I was still ending up with gas in the oil over time. Wether this was from the carb still leaking, or rings not being seated is out of my realm of knowledge. I got paranoid over the gas thinning out my oil and allowing my engine to begin to eat itself, which when I found the Holley, it seemed like a good deal.
The Holley wouldn’t of worked in the condition I got it in, it was fairly beat up.
View attachment 157899
It’s hard to see, but that choke linkage was bent inwards by an 1/8th of an inch.
I replaced every component save for the big items, it got every gasket and seal, needles and seats, throttle shafts, throttle plates, and every spring. I put the correct squirters in it according to the list number.

The other reason I bought it was because I plan to race the car when I’m done and got sucked into the idea that “every racer has a Holley” :rolleyes:, and I underestimated what it would take to revive this thing.
I doubt the Edelbrock was leaking fuel into the motor while sitting unless it was because of excess fuel pressure forcing fuel past the floats because of a plugged vent line. Do you have a return line to the fuel tank and a vent line? Make sure the rest of your fuel system is good. I had a buddy recently chasing his tail with multiple carbs and it ended up being bad old gas in the tank plugging up every carb he put on.

Another thing I ran into with Edelbrock carbs is their 1406 is calibrated for "fuel economy", the 1405 is the same cfm but calibrated for "performance". I noticed a difference and run the 1405 now. You could just go back to your 1406 that worked and change rods and jets to match what the 1405 has.

Don't overlook timing! Have you checked what your timing is at idle, under load, and max mechanical timing? Timing makes all the difference and I've chased stumbles, idling issues, and off idle problems thinking it had to be the carb just to find out it was a timing issue.

I'm assuming your Holley problem is a plugged idle circuit. Because it seems like you can get it to idle when you get past the transfer slots and pull fuel through the primaries. Plugged idle circuits can be a bear to clean because they are so small.

Let us know what you find out.
 
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fleming442

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No transfer slots on the secondaries, as far as i know. Double pumpers may be different?
That's another thing: have you adjusted the accelerator pump?
Hard to believe it's dropping vacuum that low. If the brake booster is bad, that's a huge vacuum leak, though. You're chasing your tail until that goes away.
 
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UC645

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I doubt the Edelbrock was leaking fuel into the motor while sitting unless it was because of excess fuel pressure forcing fuel past the floats because of a plugged vent line. Do you have a return line to the fuel tank and a vent line? Make sure the rest of your fuel system is good. I had a buddy recently chasing his tail with multiple carbs and it ended up being bad old gas in the tank plugging up every carb he put on.

Another thing I ran into with Edelbrock carbs is their 1406 is calibrated for "fuel economy", the 1405 is the same cfm but calibrated for "performance". I noticed a difference and run the 1405 now. You could just go back to your 1406 that worked and change rods and jets to match what the 1405 has.

Don't overlook timing! Have you checked what your timing is at idle, under load, and max mechanical timing? Timing makes all the difference and I've chased stumbles, idling issues, and off idle problems thinking it had to be the carb just to find out it was a timing issue.

I'm assuming your Holley problem is a plugged idle circuit. Because it seems like you can get it to idle when you get past the transfer slots and pull fuel through the primaries. Plugged idle circuits can be a bear to clean because they are so small.

Let us know what you find out.
I had first fed the Edelbrock with one of those cheapo Chinese shaker fuel pumps, that thing could barely make 2.5 PSI. The Edelbrock would leak fuel when the fuel pump was off, to the point where if it sat overnight, the only fuel in it would be in the accelerator pump.

Af far as timing goes, it’s currently at 16 degrees initial, calculated to be 32 total, I can’t read my balancer anymore due to rust. Using the mechanical advance on my distributor with the heaviest springs it was supplied with, I probably need to go to a lighter spring to bring more timing in faster. According to Top Street Performance’s charts (I got this dizzy on a heck of a deal), timing with their black springs doesn’t start until 2500. Or I just need to add more initial.

No transfer slots on the secondaries, as far as i know. Double pumpers may be different?
That's another thing: have you adjusted the accelerator pump?
Hard to believe it's dropping vacuum that low. If the brake booster is bad, that's a huge vacuum leak, though. You're chasing your tail until that goes away.
From what I’ve been understanding, both primaries and secondaries need to be adjusted equally, that includes transfer slots exposure. The primary accelerator pump sprays as soon as the throttle is even touched, it doesn’t lag behind.
The engine would stall wether it was in gear with the wheels blocked, or with the brakes applied. The booster just took longer to stall it out, perhaps because the vacuum draw is made up as the engine runs, but the power valve opened, starting to flood the engine. Either way, I bought a 4.5 this morning because that’s all the speed shop sold separately.

I’ve got the secondaries and primaries adjusted pretty equally, and the 4.5 is in. I’ll be firing it up shortly.
 
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melloelky

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if you can see the mark on your balancer you can establish the timing with an adjustable timing light.its not bad.
 
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UC645

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if you can see the mark on your balancer you can establish the timing with an adjustable timing light.its not bad.
I’ve got a paint mark on it already, but the broad range timing marker I've got on it obscures almost all of the rusted timing marks. Works well enough though.
 

UC645

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SUCCESS! Don’t know which was the right call, but the car will idle in gear with the wheels blocked or holding it with the brake and it won’t die even after sitting for a solid minute in that state.
The 4.5 power valve might be still to high, as it died with the brake on while stopped on a hill. Either way, progress is progress.
Now I have to figure wether or not I should be or should not be able to stall the engine by bottoming out the idle circuit screws, because it still doesn’t. Might need readjusted again, I did play with both stop screws.
 
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UC645

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.....it helps it you don’t put the throttle blades in upside down. I’ve been wondering why I’m getting very little airflow through the primaries with the transfer slot showing a square, turns out the angle on the primary throttle blades is reversed. DOH!
 
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gnvair

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Now that’s awesome.


My transfer slots on the other hand, sort of aren’t. The primaries are way too open.
View attachment 157967
And the secondaries aren’t even showing the slot.
View attachment 157968
Back to the bench it is.
Try cracking the secondaries open a little. That should allow you to close up the primaries enough to cover the transfer slots.
I also want to add not to worry about the power valve just yet. Get you base timing and mixture figured out. I typically do this with a vacuum gauge making adjustments so that I can get the highest vacuum reading I can. I will even vary the idle speed. I will select a power valve after I figure out where it makes the highest vacuum and seems to idle the best.
 
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Nitro442

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Sep 11, 2020
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I’ll start by saying this is not a “which one is better?” thread (because it’s the Holley), and more of a “Why does one do things the other doesn’t?” thread.

I recently switched from a 1406 Edelbrock to a 4150 Holley (list # 4776-2) and have had a few issues/quirks with the Holley.
For starters, the Edelbrock would idle down to around 600 rpm and would happily allow the engine to sit in gear without dying, at nearly 500 rpm, the Holley does not come close to these numbers. Even at 1000 rpm idle, with the Holley on the car and it sitting in gear it seems to stall out far easier. When the engine is up to operating temp this gets even worse, with me needing to get on the gas within a second to prevent the car stalling. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is the case? I have rebuilt both carbs, the reason for the switch is I think the Edelbrock is damaged, it leaks fuel out of the bowls when it’s sitting. That carb has already cost me quite a chunk of change in oil from the gas seeping into the pan overnight.

Another quirk with the Holley is that it doesn’t like full choke, but runs quite rough without it when I go to start it. I’m using a manual choke setup, and can not find any tips or tricks to adjusting this so I can use it. Currently I have to hold the choke open about this much in order to get the engine to start or run with it on:
View attachment 157896
Fully closed and the engine dies either due to lack of air or over fueling, I can see fuel pouring out the venturis with the choke on fully. Any tips on fixing this? Or should I stop worrying, leave the choke off, and stick my foot in it a bit while it warms up?

As it stands I know the Holley needs a few things:
A bigger primary squirter
A more aggressive primary accelerator pump cam
A 50cc accelerator pump conversion, or a combination of all 3. I will be taking it back to the bench for by the book adjustments when colder weather hits.
Any advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated, I have been looking for around a week and haven’t turned up any solutions.
Make sure you have the correct power valve installed, there is an adjustment screw behind the choke housing to adjust the high idle while choke is closed
 
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