Nope, car is still driving me crazy. I no clue what I did wrong for karma to treat me like this....lol.....I drove it after fixing the no spark issues and then the TC splines broke, as I did not know I needed spacer between the TC and flex plate. Got the trans all fixed, then took it for another...
Sorry for the late respond. It was the spot on the fuse box that I had it plugged into, once i turn the switch it looses power in that spot. I just have a problem with the RPM going from 800 to 2000 and then back down. The program I have says its set at 2000 rpm.
This is the kit I used for my AC and MAF sensor.
http://www.bowersrodshop.com/lt1-ac-relocation-kit/
http://www.bowersrodshop.com/lt1-ac-relocation-kit/#!/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Bracket-Kit/p/1130005/category=335901
Well its not that hard, but I did change some things that made it a pain. I found out that my car was the problem and not the LT1 a day or 2 ago. Its an easy install. Bleeding the radiator is a messy job.
I would stay away from the LT1, been putting one in my car for awhile now and I wish I had went with a LS. If you need any help with the LT1, most likely I have an answer.
I know how you feel. I want to take my engine out and put a carb engine in, can't get mine to fire anymore. I have change optispark, coil and icm. About to change ecm now to see if that's the problem.
For over a month I been having problems bleeding my brake, so I took the Ford 9" out and put in a stock non posi 7.5. Going to try and bleed them tomorrow, so hope to be driving tomorrow. Selling the 9" soon!
I have the sway bar in the link below, but don't know the torque specs for it. I believe I can do it the same as stock, but there is an adjustable part that I don't know the torque specs for. I have tried call UMI, but have not got anybody on the phone...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.