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10w-30 is fine. I've never seen 10w-40 VR1

Of course it is, you just had to check the right boxes when ordering.

Is your dad a tv repairman too? Let me take a wild guess here. You're a big fan of the "Super-Bowl" whether it's football season or not

What rear sway bar are you using, looks like it's leaving pretty flat/level 8)

I think because the G-Body is a cheaper car this board seems to draw a lot of new to the performance world members. I chose to regurgitate some of the what should be well known by now new oil formulation problems for the newer people just in case. I first learned about it probably 2005-ish when...

I assume you have a flat tappet equipped engine; A few years ago they introduced a new formulation of oil with a lower amount of zink or a reduced ZDDP package. Most and sometimes all of what you'll find on the shelves at the parts store or department stores is this type of oil. **The problem...

Yes. This is an original inline fuse. Check for power at both ends of any wire hooked to the starter solenoid that has this kind of fuse in it.

I read it all but I haven't really noticed China parts getting any better, just more of it on our shelves. :lol: Yup, plenty of China and Taiwan at Summit. Trans-Dapt and MR Gasket are horrible offenders when it comes to that. I just get all like :wtf: :blam: when I see someone bragging...

That's not what I'm seeing when I go to parts stores. Hell even the majority of stuff that NAPA has anymore seems to be low quality made in China/Mexico. And look what's happened to MSD. I got took by their made in China HEI distributor a few years ago and that kind of poor manufacturing is...

Not to mention that it undermines the US economy. Our choice for quality products is getting worse every year. I fear that sometime in the next few years low quality offshore produced junk will be our only choice because corporations and people just want to save a buck.

SKIP WHITE PERFORMANCE

Their stuff is cheap for a reason and that's all I'm gunna say.

I'm a big fan of those old Ford body styles, just love them to death. Good luck with your project!

Some calculators that work pretty well for stuff like this: http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/index.html http://www.richmondgear.com/112901.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Hey, at least there were no "This one time at band camp" stories :lol:

I've had a couple sets of the 26x8.5 Mickey SLICKS with a both 350 and 383ci and 3500-4000 coverters. They really didn't require a lot of heat to work well. If you know you are going to be sitting a while waiting for the other guy just wait till he's about done with his burn out to start yours...

I was really trying to get him to come back to the cooling problem thread he started just days ago. In that thread he posted he had a cooling problem that wasn't under control, he never stated if he got it fixed or not. Now he's talking about making more power, that just leads to more heat.

It'll have a short life if you continue to run it at 240-245 degrees. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49435

It has nothing to do with the heads. It's more about the ability (Power) of the ignition system to fire that gap. If all you have is an HEI with an aftermarket coil or something like that I'd back down the gap. If you can reliably fire a larger gap at upper rpm's it'll make more power but It's...

I'd replace those wires at once (but not with Accel's) and do a rebuild on that carb. If you haven't already done so you might also want to close the TR55's gap down to .045, or replace them with TR5's and open the gap to .045.