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It sucks no matter what. Even with an internal compressor. And I didn't have the engine or trans in. So I sat on the frame to help compress it just enough, with the jack under the arm to get the ball joint nut started

Long time since I started this thread but it's been a busy summer. Figured I would update on how everything has gone. Did some frame repair on my left rear horn. As all wagon owners know, replacements are almost nonexistent and donor cars are few and far between. Thankfully it wasn't TOO bad...

So I "finished" my wagon about this time last year. 5.3 turbo/4l80e combo. Had a lot of fun for a year but the car was running low 11s and needed a cage. Was just going to put one in but then it dawned on me. There is a lot of stuff that needs addressed on the frame and body that I won't be able...

Completely agree. Sorry I jumped the gun there without context. I guess I always assumed people added a 9in to handle more power. But it's not hard for me to believe that people do it just to say they did.

FWIW, I don't think people put 9 in rears in G bodies because they want the approval of others. I know I didn't. If someone is building a car and is afraid of parasitic loss from a component, well I got news for ya. Its everywhere. And if a person feels the minor increase from a 9in is going...

Aside from my Ford 9in, I did exactly that. I haven't touched my suspension. It's got the same springs from the factory and shocks from who knows when. I know that hurts me in some areas. But it doesn't keep the car from making the power it does. However, I will be upgrading them. So I'm not...

I'm not sure about the 4.8s but I know that the Van's and some trucks that came with the 4.3 and 80e had higher stall converters.

That's the thing though. You can make that power with the same stock truck intake, manifolds, fuel rails and injectors that you pulled from the junkyard.

I can understand the animosity towards them. I'm usually one of those individuals who hates riding the bandwagon. But with this platform, it just seemed silly to use that mindset. I took a $125 5.3 with a bent rod, replaced the bent rod with a used one off Ebay. Slapped an ugly hotside...

Yeah I guess the coming back out part is a valid point. Especially after a cage is installed. Plus the car will be taken much better care of than it was the first 39 years of its life lol Guess I have a lot of access hole drilling to do!

I appreciate all the replies fellas. I really do. So if the nut breaks out of the cage, what do you guys do about installing new ones?

My old girl is coming apart. Going to address things under the body while I can, before a cage goes in. Body mounts and rust inhibiting mainly. I've read numerous threads of users suggesting soaking the mount bolts in penetrating oil for days to keep them from breaking or the nuts from breaking...

Ribbedroof that is exactly what I needed to know, thank you! Thanks for clearing that up for me. My only other question is, is one 8ft roll (of the front and top stuff) enough to do both front doors?

Thanks for your reply Jack, I was hoping you would chime in since you played a big role in the other thread. That was exactly what I wanted to know. I gathered that the channel was different in places, just couldn't decipher exactly what part was being talked about with the wording. So the...

I've been doing research on finding a suitable replacement for the run channels in my car. I've read through the research thread https://gbodyforum.com/threads/g-body-run-channel-research.44625/ several times, but have a few questions still as some solutions seemed vague. Am I correct in that...

Yeah I think every G body guy should watch it. It's really good. And let's you see just how crazy some GN owners can be about keeping their car pristine.

Also, you will end up spending just as much money, if not a little more to convert the engine to carb over using stock intake and injection. Will take a little more time and work to convert to EFI but you get the convenience of a modern engine in an old car.

Not trying to be "one of those people" but the LQ4 is not an LS2. LS2 has an aluminum block and featured some differences, like the cam sensor being located on the front of the cam and knock sensors on the side of the block. LQ4 is an iron block truck motor and has the cam sensor in the rear...

You don't need it for the trans to function at all. All the sender did in OEM applications was change the display on the dash and trigger the reverse lights.

And interior panels! So hard to find any donor cars anymore. I was VERY fortunate to find a donor car in a pick n pull a few weeks ago. Got all the interior pieces I could that were in good shape. Also, the early 90s Chevy Astro sending units work perfect in our tanks and are more accurate...