hell, here's a question, where do you live? i'm in CT and am willing to pull and sell my performer (vortec) intake and then upgrade mine to the RPM air-gap...
a regular vortec would never make it near to 8000 and would be an absolute dog with that intake. granted, you could do a major rebuild and set it up to use it, but it would be a race motor and a dog on the street.
definitely go with a e-brock performer (whichever model-but for stock go with the...
well, let's do some basic diagnosis first
does the pump run?
NO-- do you have power and ground at the pump?
you may even want to jump power and ground to it to be absolutely sure (sometimes very small breaks in wire will allow full voltage, but not enough amperage)...
basically. your voltage at the fuse to frame/body should always be 12+ volts--really it should match the voltage at the battery at all times. but with a bad ground, the fuse voltage will be reduced. if you have low voltage regardless of ground, it's a bad power connection
another one that...
Usually the fuses have two open contact points on the head that you can get a small probe (or paper clip) into. If you move the ground from the fuse to the frame/body and the voltage changes significantly, you have a bad ground.
or you can try and get the probe into the contacts of the fuse...
your system voltage is good, so that pretty much guarantees a bad ground (technically a short is possible and it's dumping power to another circuit.-not as likely)
use the contact point on the fuses for the power/ground to check the voltage. this will use the individual grounds and tell you if...
detach the line from the can to the tank and try to blow air through it. same with the line from the can to the carb. you can also try to pull vacuum on the can.
it's a VERY good idea to keep the EVAP system intact and functional.
hey, there's still shoe material left, it can't be that bad! and the drums are still in one piece. :rofl:
worst rotors i ever saw were front that had the vanes exposed, and rears that you could bend with you hand!
I'm trying to plan out a tattoo for my father. I want to incorporate the EGA and his battalion/regiment. was there ever an official regiment patch? he was 1st/9th 3rd division, the Walking Dead (Vietnam) if that helps.
i have seen different patches, but i think they are all unofficial.
thanks!
found a major mistake in that article--he got the coolant types backwards. "standard" coolant is ethylene glycol, dex cool and many other "new" coolants are propylyn glycol.
one of the other problems was bad radiator caps. this allowed air in and didn't hold proper pressure. that's why it was so hit and miss. GM hasn't gone back to regular coolant FWIW. they still use the same basic type as the dex--so do most companies.
At 60mph, my 383/200-4r/3.73 combo loafs along at about 2000rpms. Granted thats with a stock converter, but it wont really change too much. However, thats with a torque motor, if you have a 330 i assume its a high RPM motor?
you have to go in slow and short strokes to prevent the squirting. definitely follow the pattern, and pushing the prop valve will make the rears much faster.
thats exactly what i would recommend.
but, there's also "speed bleeders" that go in place of the bleeders and act as a one way valve. i havent used them myself, but heard good things.
or you can try "short stroking" the pedal to force fluid down the lines--but it's a bit touchy. you have to...
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