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pat, a few suggestions id like to make.. A ROLLER CAM !! pick any hydraulic flat tappet cam and a comparable hydraulic roller gives more average torque under the curve.. less stress to the lobes and lifters which ultimately provides better hp... we can go on for a while about comparisons...

dude, are you heavily sedated? first go to your local walmart and pick up a 12 gauge and secondly walk into that c*ck suckers shop and tell him to look in the engine bay of your car. tell him if he doesn't fix it in less than a week- youll blow a ****ing hole in his face thatll resemble the...

do yourself a favor, and go back to your buddy the mechanic ( who clearly isnt your friend if hes raping you like this ) and tell him he needs to clean up the abortion he has created under that hood. and if he says no drive that car into his store front. that is unacceptable - as stated...

depends on the motor specs. is it stock or do you have work done? with the extra torque your def going to want to change your weak 7.5 rear to an 8.5 or at least beef up the 7.5 (axles/posi ultimately more spline and preferably welded axle tubes, s10 wheel cylinders ) to handle some abuse. also...

i have a jegs x member for a 700r4 in my monte and a gforce x member for a th400 in my cutlass. the craftsmanship on the gforce is second to none- however it is quite pricey. ( you get what you pay for though ) the jegs piece is a little less easy on the eyes, however it is priced well enough...

where are you located? if you in the new york area, i have a 6 pt mild steel cage ill sell you out of a cutlass.

i lot of people forget to lube the oil filter seal before turning it on... important to lube that seal up whether with a finger tip using the old oil or light spray of wd40.

i believe afr is the new name or took over the older company canfield. canfield made some nice heads.

is anyone running 15x10 rims? if so can you tell me what back space seems to work best? thanks

4001 :lol:

if your breaking the 400hp 400tq mark, keep in mind that you have a stock rear which is a weak point to the drive line. a torque maker like a 383 ( that can also wind up and hold top end ) will no doubt explode that 7.5" stock rear at some point in time. you may want to consider spending a few...

re-examine your quench space.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Produc ... uctId=2993 if your talking mild then this is your best bang for the buck. ( maybe add a roller cam w/ some more duration and nicer lope if your looking for that snotty sound and a bit more performance ) also on this site you will see they sell a...

why not consider an ls1 swap? more power, more available, and more aftermarket options. you can get a motor/trans/ecu for fair pricing out of wrecked f bodies too. this particular ebay auction also includes harnessed ecu, modules, driveshaft, fuel pump, belt setup, pedal ( drive by wire i guess...

your using the wrong cam for big horsepower acheived via juice. you need a solid roller made for nitrous. :mrgreen: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-50157/ make sure that bottom end is forged and in a set of 4 bolt mains. a 750 carb should be plenty and you have a pretty nice combo of...

key word is rebuilt. thats what we try to avoid and can hardly do with the 7.5" - the are simply a weak rear that is not meant for heavy abuse or more than a stock 307 or 305 can put out ( which is comparable to my lawn mower) and unless your parts were bought used and the labor was done by...

im running 295/65-15 drag radials. its about 30" tall with a section width of about 12.5 and a tread width of almost 10.5 fills the wells up nice and doesnt come close to rubbing even on the hardest launch. my car hooks mint with them as well.

is your top end, bottom end ( entire motor i guess ) and rear end stock? if it is i can go on for a couple days telling you why you shouldnt add that cam and a 100 shot. if you want to make a car fast, do it right- start from the ground up just like a house.

x2 it would go faster if you pulled it behind a boat. you can build a descent 350ci/300-350hp for 1000-1200 bucks. the machine shop bill alone on the 305 to boil, flux, cut for the crank, and bore /hone cylinder walls etc would be close to that same price range if not more.

if your set on lakewood, you might as well buy summit brand drag shocks. its the same thing just half the price and they are 3 way adjustable.