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Mine was produced the last week of febuary 1985, with no restamping.

I've also heard about the restamping for 1985 442 carbs, mine wasnt one of the lucky ones that got restamped, but it is a correct Qjet for an 85 442. My 85 442 is also missing the cowl tag but has the RPO sticker in the trunk. I've read that some had both the stickers and tags and some just the...

What happened to the pacer project?

IIRC You couldnt get the HO 307 with a base cutlass, so the 9 makes it a legitmate 442. Also check and see if you're lucky enough to have the #'s matching carb and the dual exhaust heat shield near the gas tank for the fuel lines.

I want to swap over to an older carb/distributor setup in my 85 442 with the 9 code 307 but I want to retain my lockup without buying a lockup kit for it. Will lockup work if the computer is still hooked up to the trans?

No big benefit to buy a performer compared to the A-4, both aluminum, both flow about the same and weigh about the same, difference is you can trip over one at the yards or pay $200-$300 for a name on the other.

I put them in my 86 cutlass once, removed the hood bumps and bought a couple extra nuts and wide washer from the hardware store and bolted them up through the bottom of the hole where the hood bump stud screwed in on the radiator support. I used the remaining nuts as hood bumps on the threaded...

I would probably check the choke, same thing as everyone else said. Again, they arent junk, I rebuilt a few with good results and put one from a 78 olds delta 403 on my stock 350 olds crate engine with popular bolt ons like an RPM intake, full tube headers, 2 1/2" duals and an accel distributor...

Add me to the list, I'm impatiently waiting for my antique title to come back.

I have an NOS passenger side lower s.s. molding for the door, still in protective plastic wrapping. $150 plus shipping.

Cool, just in time because my main rods pin snapped in half at the welds again, I only drove the car two times since having it rewelded, so hopefully you guys have worked this out or made the pins out of something more than potmetal that can stand up to more than scratch.

If you want that OEM factory look, here's the one I bought. Costed me $330 or so but works good with a 180 high flow t stat. Like I said I'd trust it with that t stat in a mid 300 to mid 400 horsepower 10 to 1 compression 455. While youre at it, check the clutch on the clutch fan if you have one...

Zinc additive is for flat tappet cams, you dont need it with roller setups. Matter of fact you dont need it at all, but I feel that if I'm gonna run my engine up in the rpms and do WOT runs and burnouts (pretty much running the engine harder than normal driving) I'm going to use it so I dont...

I run syn power 10w30 in my 442 with ZDDP plus. Expensive oil and additive but I feel better about because the engine runs like clockwork after a good WOT blast. I also ran the same oil in my 350 olds crate engine since day one with another zince additive and that engine also ran good and didnt...

I have a brand new brass and copper radiator that I picked up this past july for my 442. That and the robert shaw high flow 180 t stat and it doesnt run anywhere past 185 on the temp gauge and stays around 180 during normal driving and idling. I did pay for it though, it costed me $335 total...

country music is rubbish :rofl:

Nothing beats the UK version. These guys don't have it.

Items shipped with great care, the mufflers in the box could've survived a runover by a truck. 8)

ZDDP zinc additive is made here. Expensive little bottle o' protection.

They're right, get a good one now and dont waste the money on a crap one. I paid $25 for my glasspack and another $70 on the installation through a garage. That $95 can go towards a good system.