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When I bought it a few years ago I planned on doing a stock rebuild since it was going into my daily driver and it was my first engine rebuild. I wanted to keep it simple since I didn’t and still don’t understand much about choosing the different components to improve performance. So I have...

Thanks man. I’m trying to learn to do things myself too even though I feel intimidated by all I have to learn.

I got the upper ball joint off now I’m working on the lower one. I’m having a hard time getting the ball joint press tool to fit in there.

I’m currently working on removing the upper/lower ball joints. Any advice would be appreciated. I’m having trouble removing the upper ball joint.

I’ll start off with a brief introduction and give more information as I go along. I’ve been a member of this site since 2009 when I bought my 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic. At the time it was my daily driver and I was a complete newbie when it came to working on cars so I didn’t do much work to it...

I pulled the codes and I got codes 21,23,44, and 45.

We'll it is a rebuilt stock carb and it was ordered from national carburetors.

I doesn't feel like it is shifting when it hits 20 mph I just stays stuck there. The car also seems light it is idling too high.

The carb was replaced because the old one needed to be rebuilt it wouldn't run unless we poured gas in the carb. The car did go over 20 mph before the carb was replaced. I put the carb back on the same way that I took it off.

I'm having a problem with my 87 cutlass with the 307 engine. I just replaced the carb with a brand new stock carb and now my check engine light is on and the car will not go over 20 mph . What could be my problem?

Look at the first pic in my post where the yellow line connects to the pink one I was wondering if I could disconnect it from there. I tried to put a rubber hose on the end of the yellow hose but I don't think the seal is tight enough because I hear the vacuum leak.

The check valve came in today. But I couldn't put it to use because the black rubber end of the yellow line that goes on the check valve broke off so now I can't connect it. Does that hose disconnect from the pink hose so I can replace it?

So I fixed my problem today. Turns out the vacuum leak was coming from the vacuum nipple on the intake that's right behind the carb. The line that was on it was too small for the nipple so it was stretched to fit over it and that was causing the leak. I installed a check valve with a big end and...

I was actually trying to clean up under the hood like you had on your post about retaining the CCc system. After I removed the stuff you said in your post I drove the car and it ran fine no check engine light and no problems. The next morning when I turned to turn it on the check engine light...

So I was trying to fix my ac no blowing out of the vents and now I have another problem, I seem to have a vacuum leak because my check engine light is coming on and the engine stalls out and dies. I guess I didn't put the vacuum lines back in the right place or maybe one is broken but I'm not...

Thanks man. I just ordered the check valve from rock auto, when it gets here I will try it out and let you know what happens.

So I still haven't fixed this ac problem but I took some pics of my engine bay to see if someone could help. The pink vacuum line that came from the passenger side firewall plugs into another plastic line and I'm not sure where to connect that to. Also I can feel the air blowing from the ac box...

I think it has a little bit of drag but not much.

Thanks bill. Can anyone help me with this?

Yes, I installed a new cam and bearings. So I shouldnt worry about using a bearing scraper on the cam bearings as long as I put some assembly lube when I do the final installation of the cam?