Search results

the major issue with this sort of thinking is that my engine n/a, probably only makes about 300hp and 250 ftlbs... until i get into boost, then a normal converter will flash so high its a constant slipper all the way down the track. getting a converter to stall to 3000 on my weak engine's...

sooooo, what does the majority say towards torque converter choices with a turbo car? i have definately had my go around with a few different designs and brands. i went and had a custom one built and it worked great for about 2 passes, then it came apart. so now ive had it cut apart and repaired...

HUGE difference between a 4-bolt main block, and a splayed cap 4-bolt main. :rofl: in that case yes, a splayed cap is far superior to a 2bolt main.

meaning the webbing is thicker because there is less holes in it.

in my opinion, after running both, stroked and not stroked, driveability as well as street manners are going to be your choices in deciding which of the engines to build. if you find a vortech block that doesnt need any rod clearancing when you stroke it, by some lottery tickets quick. but...

sounds like combustion gases being forced into coolant passages. check for a blowed head gasket by compression checking cylinders. that sucks man. sorry bout it. :(

from a machinist's point of veiw, a 2 bolt main is actually stronger than a 4 bolt main block. there is less holes drilled in the casting, making it not as weak in the mains. the only exception would be splayed caps. although the stroking of a vortech 350( which is the platform i run) the money...

i run a completely stock 8.5 and i went 6.80 in the 1/8 at 106, but i run a turbo car and it launches fairly soft, about a 1.7 60 foot.

wow, you did a great job.....hood hinges are clear too huh...

wow. talk about stage three weight reduction.

man that sucks *ss. hope its just a simple fix, like a new belt or perhaps a waterpump or something.

i would just wire it into one bank, not both. probably the passenger side since the wiring should already be on that side. :D

all i know is when i ran my n/a motor i was running total( all mechanical advance in) 36 degrees. that was at 3500 rpm and i was running a 3800 rpm stall and some drag radials. it never knocked and it ran slower at 38, and slower at 34. 36 was its happy place. the engine was a 13.5:1 406 with a...

im talking about ventury vacuum, not manifold vacuum. i am running a vic jr and a blowthrough 750.so i highly doubt there is a restriction in my induction system. you are supposed to hook up your vac adv to a ventury vac, not a manifold vac source.

do you mean a neutral safety switch?

no, i dont use a transmission brake. im a footbraker, and i dont want to buy a ton of really expensive parts to would use a t-brake. but without one, beings that i am boosted, parts have a much longer lifespan, and traction isnt such an issue when you launch soft and it rips your head off at about 80...

i like the little plate in there stopping the amount of vac advance. :D i usually just disconnect the vac advance all together and leave it off. that way when the ventury vac comes up, i dont detonate. by not using the vac adv at all, you can more accurately set your total timing , which is...

i dont know about the GN guys brake boost problems, but i could brake mine to 10 and the tires would just explode with an instant smoke show while pushing through the lights. i tightened up the rear brakes so much they drug and it slowed the car down a tenth. so i figured a pinion brake would...

he means without the vac advance hooked up. then hook it up and set your idle

i got truly lucky with my 8.5 beings i paid a whole 200 bucks for it. got it from about 20 miles from home on the indian reservation from a burned down 87 GN... flipped it over with a bobcat and cut the rear out with a torch. had to do all new bearings, races, seals, and brakes including...